Flapper mod+OEM air filter+snorkel mod,Pair valve unpluged!

I think they should have added a ram air box. With the snorkel on it doesn't seem to be getting enough air- I going to ride it now with just the snorkel off and flapper plugged-that looks to be a problem when the bike closes the flapper-it can't be getting enough air for sure then it will simply choke and stumble. The only mod that seems to work well is the Flapper mod. I don't want to get water in the air box, so I may put the snorkel back on-but then again it does get some noise down too. Has anyone have problems with water in the air box with the snorkel out.

 

there is a divider in the snorkel that could be cut out-that would give it a tiny bit more air and still keep water out

 

dynos are too expensive, I think I will just put the snorkel back in and the the only change is the flapper-I can't see any good use for that working. The best thing I may have done is simply change the air filter.

 

Ok , I just put back all this stuff the way it was, at least the air filter got changed. I guess this is just a waste of time to change anything.

 

told you to just leave it be . For the size of the motor 800cc not even . The snorkel on the air box is not restrictive , Also I would not want to get caught in the rain without And from my understanding the bike runs lean stock so why do you want to add more air ? It's a great bike ride it and have fun

 

Ok , I just put back all this stuff the way it was, at least the air filter got changed. I guess this is just a waste of time to change anything.

 

I take it you two know each other?
There's banter, and then there's just being rude.

 

SOW may be talking about snorkels on the shemales not the bike. Probably fantasizing aboot Scubalong too.

 

It's no secret that the VFR has a snatchy throttle that makes low speed maneuvering jerky.

Whether this is the fault of an intention by the Honda engineers to boost performance, decrease emissions, decrease noise levels, meet some combination of the above while meeting production cost restrictions or something else is anybodies guess.

But the bottom line is lots of people dislike the effect on low speed throttle response and seek a remedy irrespective of their comprehension of mechanical engineering.

I read a bunch of things online and spoke to some bike mechanics including a Honda wrench. I got a lot of conflicting advice but what I did reflects what I was told would work by a Honda mechanic who said he sold the VFR in the early to mid 2000's. He said “the flapper just alters the airbox volume and shouldn't make any difference. But every VFR we sold we told the owner go out and ride the bike and enjoy it, but come back in a month or so. We'll check over the bike and disconnect the PAIR valve. Lots of guys just had us disconnect it at pick-up. It was done for emissions but really effected ride-ability at parking lot speeds”

My ride is an 03 for the record. Breaking it down here is what I have found:

The first thing I did was block the pair valve by pulling the hose, putting a machine bolt in the hose and capping the other end with a vacuum plug. I just didn't have a marble but it has the same effect.

I left the electrical wire that some recommend yanking plugged in.

With that done the bike ran much much smoother at low speed and the throttle was much less like an on/off switch at other speeds. No negative issues resulted.

The snorkel mod made my bike louder. Some say it effects the acceleration curve negatively. I didn't care for it and returned to stock on that.

I ran the bike like this for 1k miles with nothing but joy for having done it.

Still the throttle seemed it could use some improving in overall smoothness particularly the v-tec being so grabby on my pre 06 bike which is when they fixed the transition point. 02-05 years had a rather abrupt v-tec engagement... Guess engineers don't always get it right...

So I got a PCIII and loaded in the cozye map and left the PAIR valve capped. What a fantastic machine.

<EDIT: I also did the resistor mod at that time to eliminate the O2 sensors>

The bike came with Staintunes exhaust and K&N filter.

I went ahead after the PAIR valve block and further added lowering blocks for the pegs and a sargent seat. I also have the Genmar risers for the bars and if I could do it over would go heli-bars.

I ditched the double bubble zero gravity windscreen in favor of a stock height one. At 6'1” the air was creating a lot of turbulence at my helmet... now it hits me square across the shoulder and I kind of like that most of the time/temperature I ride at.

I put in .95 race-tech springs so the bike handles better for someone heavier than the 120lbs (or was it 140?) that the stock springs were rated for.

I'll also be putting in All Balls roller bearings in the steering head as my stock ones are shot. Guess I'm just a flagrant tinkerer eh Tinkering-with-stuff-that-is-NOT-my-Honda-motorcycle?



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try those mods wasn't a waste of time, I learned a lot -looks like the stock setup just might be pretty good, I think the vfr would work better with some more air flow-but taking off the snorkel is a bad idea for me because it rains too hard here, so I put it back on. I did figure out how to get the bike some more air-the piper cross air filter is a simple way of doing so, its very easy to change the air filter. I did get some more air in by putting in a emgo air filter. Anyone know what size the throttle adj nut is? Its very small?

 

Looks like he's figured out how to do the Pair valve mod correctly-it is never a waste of time working on the bike to make it perfect, it will never be perfect, but maybe better than if nothing is tried:chaingun::laser::boink::lever:

 

OK, today was look under the gas tank day to see what the previous owner had done, if anything. Everything was hooked up, nothing around the engine / air cleaner area looked like it had ever been touched. The bike appears to be stock except for a Wolf undertail exhaust.

First, looked at the flapper. It seemed to stay open all the time, not closing below 5,000 RPM and opening above, as the manual says.
So flapper doesn't work? May as well remove it, so I did, along with the solenoid and vacuum lines. That's a few fewer parts under there.

Next, removed the PAIR system. I've done that on all my bikes that came with PAIR on general principles. I simply capped the openings in the cylinder heads and the air cleaner, unplugged the valve, and removed everything.

I think the low speed throttle response is a little less abrupt. It's not night and day, but it's an improvement. It's possible to run at 2500 RPM on light throttle without bucking.

Left the snorkel alone. I've removed snorkels on a couple of bikes and it screwed up the airflow patterns inside the airbox enough to upset carburetion, so I leave 'em the way the engineers designed 'em.

 

ound: This is classic
Flash back :faint:

 

VFR love seems to have the answer on how to disconnect the pair valve easy on the vtec vfr-just plug up the lines-no air will then flow into the exhaust and just leave the device plugged in-it now would do nothing-weather its on or off. I am just looking for simple fix's. It might be after doing that the bike would run much better at low speeds. I am not sure a pipercross air filter would lean the bike out too much or not. You would be able to till if the bike was running to lean just by listening to the engine when you let off the gas-does it pop too much or not. Right now the bike it is running better because it has a fresh air filter and some gun mount in the intake-cleaned it up a bit.:tongue2::target::hippie: