VFR VTEC (2005 ABS) Regulator / Rectifier - Dead?

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by honda00, Apr 17, 2014.

  1. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Thanks for the update - glad you sorted it!



    SkiMad
     


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    #21
  2. ZEN biker

    ZEN biker New Member

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    Now take the r/r off the frame long enough to put some silver cpu paste on the back of the r/r and then bolt it back on. This gives you two things. 1) increases the thermal conductivity to the frame which is the main heatsink for the r/r. The fins do help a lot but its the frame that does all the cooling in slow or less traffic. 2) it reduces the r/r to frame resistance which will prolong the life of the r/r as it doesnt have to work as hard to measure the battery voltage or provide current.

    You have an 05 6th gen. Consider the vfrness or make the mod yourself if your comfortable pulling the pins out of the connectors. And there is a recall on the nose harness behind the gauges. Find out if thats been done.

    Check out that battery. A proper test is a specific load over a specific amount of time (20 min test is common). Charge the battery for 24hrs on a digital/smart charger. 3 or more stage for best results. Leave the battery along even though the charger may say charged. This is the last stage and it is floating the battery to 100%. When ready to test. Take battery off charge and let it sit, go have a beer. Come back about 10 to 15mins later and measure voltage. Write it down and write down the time. Put the load on. The load should be about 20a for a 100Ah battery. This is about equivalent to a 220cca battery. Go have another beer, but this time watch the clock and go back to the battery in time to disconnect it when 20mins are up. Disconnect load and immediately measure the voltage and write it down with the time. The voltage will start rising as soon as the load is removed so be fast. Not time how long it takes the voltage to stop rising. Write down the time and the voltage. Now you have all the info you need.
    If the battery is labled 100Ah the 20min test will show 1/5th total power loss with the voltage drop being 1/5th from max measured voltage to lowest voltage allowable of 10.6 volts. The return voltage (the rising voltage) should stabilize between 11.2 and 12.6 v if it doesnt the batter is beyond its useful life. The 1/5th comes from the total load used and is based on a 20min drain time. Note that if your more than 1/5th of the difference then that percentage is mutliplied by 5 to get the total percentage of unusable reserve. Or if you subtract that number from 100 you get the total useable percentage of battery life. Anything less than 80% total life (20% unusable) is a bad battery.
     


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  3. lhoria46

    lhoria46 New Member

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    Hello, I also have a problems with my stators on my vfr 800 vtec abs 2006. In last two years I changed three! E very time througgh nowhere the indicator led from the abs starts to blink and in more or less than 10 minutes tha display dissapears and the motor is dead!!!
    Help me because I am sick of this problem!!!!!
    I can't go very far from home because I don't know when the stator will break!
     


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  4. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    Sorry to hear about your problems.

    Go to this post. Follow post #9. Read it and follow it!! Then report back here. 3 stators is too many.

    http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthrea...tator-failures
     


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  5. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHILE THE BIKE IS RUNNING!!! Not even a perfect charging system will power a bike with out a battery!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     


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  6. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Hi and welcome to the MadHouse:welcome:

    As Pliskin states three replacement stators is way too many - so you need to work carefully through the drill to work out what is going wrong. If you need help interpreting the results just post up the results - and we will try to help you get the bike running as it should.

    The problem is that simply replacing one defective component may not be the whole cure - as all 4 parts of the VFR charging system (battery, loom, RR and stator) need to be working well and a fault in any one can cause problems to some or all of the others. You should also note that the tests need to be repeated when the bike is hot (soon after a 30minute + ride should do) as some components may work OK when cold and suffer from insulation breakdown as they get warm - so an RR may check out OK when cold but may be defective once it gets really hot.

    When you get time please swing by the "introductions" section of the forum and say hello to the rest of VFRWorld and add at least one photo of your bike or people will start raggin on you! (to add photos - click the "Insert Image" icon and follow the prompts). You may also want to update your forum profile "My Profile" at the top of the page to include the specs of your bike and a rough location. I recall seeing at least one other post from Romania - you never know they may be local and able to help - especially if you have a beer fridge!:drink:

    Take care


    SkiMad
     


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  7. Scubalong

    Scubalong Official Greeter?

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    +1 for Skimad
    Follow the drill and report back also :welcome: to the madness from across the pond :wave:
     


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  8. honda00

    honda00 New Member

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    This was the case with mine... Very good advice!
     


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    #28
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