Photos of coolant drain plugs

Trying to do a coolant flush on my 99 VFR. I am understanding there are (4) 10mm drain plugs and one in the water pump. I see many bolts but nothing stands out as being a drain plug. The closest description I have is one is located just about the oil filter. Does someone have or can take any pictures showing which bolt I am to remove. I dont want to remove the wrong thing.

Thanks,
Mel

 

Try this link. Should be helpful.

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthre...eplacement-5th-Gen?highlight=Radiator+Coolant

 

I just dropped the lower hose on mine & ran a hose into the radiator opening for 10 mins. Then closed it all off & ran the engine up to temp with water only, then drained again & filled with coolant. I've done this with every vehicle I've ever owned with zero issues.

 

This makes it sound like there is only one drain plus the water pump. I thought there was 4

 

Just one drain bolt. The other bolts are holding the housing on.

 

There are two bolts one on the front of the front cyl and one on water pump. Just pull the one on the water pump (looks like a regular nut its on the bottom and have the rad cap off. Most people that pull the cyl plug end up with too much air in the system and end up posting about it here.

Just pull the water pump plug drain and fill. No fuss no muss.

not that you asked but...don't believe everything you read on coolant. "Safe for aluminum" does not mean silicate free. Just spend a few $ and get the Honda stuff. It's only needed every few years anyway. Also, if you want to play, put 10 capfuls of water wetter in the rad while you are at it. $9 or so a bottle at most auto joints.

 

I think BigJim flush his and were piss only a few drop came out from the cylinder drain plug. I didn't drain the one on the cylinder block either
and mine is run fine only 72K miles :smile-new: The engine just broken in...!

 

"No muss, no fuss" might just mean you're not doing enough cooling system preventive maintenance.


Without finding and opening the 4 cylinder block drains sometimes, maybe every 2-4th coolant change, rust and scale can build up within the block that simply removing the hose doesn't drain. Not necessary every coolant change but a necessity if drainage appears brownish, dirty, usually rust or scale, anything unsavory. Use garden hose forced into lower rad hose to flush system through the block drain screws, just like they do in TN. Use distilled, not tap water. Older engines or anything long-neglected may really need this.

 

See Squrrelman also just mentioned the 4 drain plugs. These are the 4 I am trying to ask for help to locate?

Secondly a new thought, would it be okay to flush the cooling system entirly with a garden hose with hot water. Like from a water heater. For the sake of keeping the thermostate open and allowing fluid flow in both directions? Then allow the water to drain and refill the coolant.

I was also planning on using Peak "Yellow" antifreeze coolant, which is the universal. It does say silicate (and 3 other items) free right on the bottle. I was doing this because, all my other vehicles now use the yellow, and I have it on hand for any future additions.

Thanks,
Mel

 

Ok good luck. Some of what was said by SM (love the Nut) doesn't make much sense since the coolant "circulates" through the block. Its not going to be stuck or hang in the system. 4 people basically suggested to drain from lower hose or the water pump drain and one suggested "maybe" drain from all the plugs every so often. We are sharing that People that do this tend to have issues with heat and too much air in the system not to mention the extra effort to open the drains and not much positive come of it. I do find it strange that you want to worry about the additional plugs but not so much about the coolant that will be running through your engine for the next 2 years. Many water pump failures due to wrong coolant.

I agree to flush and you can do this by using distilled water. Bring up to operating temp and let cool then drain and fill with fresh coolant.

Good luck with what ever you decide to do. Get it done and go riding.

 

If engine has been poorly maintained, coolant never changed, years of storage, it helps to run a proppa cooling system flush product through it. Old-timers would use a box of baking soda run for 10 minutes in the system, then flushing to cleanse the system and remove traces of whatever. Using distilled water (forgive me, BP) for a flush seems unnecessary since it's just going down the drain in 2 minutes and doesn't stay in.

 

The shop manual refers to just the water pump and cylinder head drain bolts so I don't know about 4 of them. The cylinder head drain faces upwards just next to and below the front left exhaust pipe.


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I use the Toyota pink Super Long life coolant. It comes pre mixed 50/50 which makes it easier for me as well. No real reason to use it, i work at Toyota so its fairly cheap and convenient to me. The pink stuff is for 05+ model cars and all Toyota modern engines are alloy and since Honda and Toyota uses same supplier for the hoses (Yazaki or Yamazaki i think) it should all be a-ok to use.