I don't think she's running on all cylinders

Not discounting cracks in the plugs that could be there, but not enough to cause full cylinder shutdown. Bad coil, injector, ecu output/input. These are more of what will keep a cylinder from running. Since there are several grounding/frame connections, all you have to have is one wire in one of these bunches to not have a good frame connection and you can get random troubles that "fix" themselves and then fail again.

DTC codes only set the trouble light for hard set codes. ECU failure and ABS module failures will set the light. Everything else is just stored and uses a weight system to decide the light status. If you have lots of fault errors the light will come on and then on restart the light may be off again. There are ways to read the codes out of the ecu but its best to get the honda mech to read and clear any codes. They can also confirm that various sensors are working and do null spark tests (forbids a coil from firing) to determine if that cylinder is having fueling issues, watch the o2 sensor during null tests as the afr will drop due to over fueling

 

Well whilst I'm changing things I'll xee if I can spot anything like this. From what I see it the manual the coils are built into the spark plug caps? I'll also try taking a look and grounds and frame returns

 

So the service went well today I thought (Changed sparks, oil & filter) only thing is I think it's only running on 2 cylinders (not sure, sounds weird I know but here me out)

The sound is alot more aggressive and sorta sounds like a 2 cylinders BUT the power and torque all seems to be there still. So I'm not sure whats going on with it tbh!

Maybe my bike was never running right and now it is hence the change in sound. I personally have never heard of new sparks changing the noise.

Also whilst it is still warm cylinder 4's downpipe seems much colder than the others and the silencer on the right hand side is alot hotter than normal

I should also say that there was oil on every spark (at the top not the spark end, similar to what is shown in the below pic)



Hoping I've given enough info to help identify a potential issue. Greg

 

wow


...........

 

Always helpful Alaskan!

 

A video of the bike starting, only seems to be running on 2!
[video=youtube;aOftBcrKpNg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOftBcrKpNg[/video]

Cylinder 4 doesnt seem to be firing at all (I can wrap my hand round the downpipe without burning it to death)

 

Sorted! Problem was one of the wires in the connector to the coil had severed. I reckon its been on it's way out for a while hence the the surging. Went completely but got it re-soldered today and sorted!

 

That's great news!.....I must say that bar a few very helpful individuals (Zen, Skimad etc) that the reception here feels a bit cold. I should know, I'm a moderator for another forum. Sorry to complain guys!

 

:thumbsup: bet you celebrated with a pint of bier! I am as warm as your brew. Love happy endings, Cheers

 

Thank-you for the update :smile: - it's great to hear you found the problem. :thumbsup:

It is always very helpful when people make time to come back and post up the eventual solution. Did you manage to take a photo of the defective wire, as that could really help if others are in the same boat?

At least you can now get out on that VFR and take care. We seem to be having more :smow:




SkiMad

 

Sorry to continue this thread as it was a happy ending, but I have a bit of a similar prob. When cold like on the way to work in the morning no problem, coming home when it's warmer and am immediately in traffic all is getting hotter, I get, on occasion, a hesitation or even a flat spot as you open the throttle. Once you open it a bit more it gets through the flat spot and is off as normal but in slow traffic it can be a bitch. My first thought was the documented problem of balance in the stater valves, but I don't think temperature would affect it and it's an occasional thing and seems to clear after running for a bit more on clearer roads. Might be plugs or coils anyone got any ideas? Cheers from Kiwiland.

 

I didn't no but according to my mechanic friend who resoldered it they wires get brittle under the heat. I can confirm it was the red and yellow wire on cyl 4 however.

There's various flat spots in certain spots on the RPM range with standard air/fuel etc anyways, your problem doesn't seem quite the same as mine as mine was surging between 3&4 cyl's which you can feel and hear. My thoughts and previous readings of such matters would also point to starter valves