Regulator Rectifier for my 99

Hi, this post is very informative; however I would like some specific information. If someone can help me then please send me a private message. Best Regards,

 

YO Snow, What year is your bike? Your wiring diagram if formatted in a slightly differnt way. However I believe the black/white wire and the green both go to ground. this should be evident on the right side of the aluminum
frame, (outside of square tube) On my 2000 both black/white and green are attached via a common screw into the frame,Please let me know if you are successful. eddie

 

Hi, mine is a yr2000 same as yours. As far as I know, y2k and above has this extra wire. Seems to be connected to the ignition.

When bike is turned off, the wire is continuous as I've stated. But once the key is turned, a 12 vdc will be across the black/white and green (gnd) wires.

I did not trace where does the black wire leads to but it shouldn't be attached to common gnd. The wiring diagram says it goes to the ignition switch as well as engine stop relay.

From another forum (vfrd), the guys mention that this black/white wire simply supply the battery voltage back to the R/R for some purpose.

The ELectrical Fault Finding guide from Electrosport (http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_fault_finding.html ) also included this wire in the test. These are my results from following the Electrosport's guide:

Voltage@battery, 2500 rpm: 12.46V *fail

Engine idle, voltage between battery (+) to R/R output: 0.215V (failed! So I sand the contacts and fuses and cleaned them and got 0.175V) *pass

Engine idle, voltage between battery (-) to R/R negative output: 0.006V *pass

Engine idle, voltage between battery (+) to R/R black/white wire (called the +12V supply input): 0.077V *pass

Stator wire resistance test: 0.4-0.3 ohms *fail

Stator wire to gnd continuity test: no continuity *pass

Stator wire AC voltage test: 2-4 VAC *fail

Conclusion: stator damage.

 

I replaced my R/R with one from a CBR600RR. Change a few connectors and you're done.

 

The Problem With The Whole Charging System Is Once It Over Heats And Fries The Rectfier Your Wiring Could Be Fried And Your Stator. If You Just Replace The Retifier It Could Just Fry Again. This Whole Experience Cost Me 1000 Dollars.

 

Quick update on my 98 with the Honda updated r/r. I have done 1000 miles since install and the bike runs better than it has since I bought it two years ago. I suspect my original one has been bad since I bought the bike. I did try the electrosport and first ride after install both of my headlights blew and the bike seemed to have a mysterious chugging when you would hold a steady speed and backfire on downshift. It also got horrible fuel mileage, but now believe it or not, this all cleared up when I installed the updated Honda part. I thought I was crazy but I have had emails from others that had the same issues.

 

The one small thing I did when replacing the R/R was to put several washers
behind the mounting plate in order to hopefully get some air flow behind the
R/R. This also required longer bolts. That was about 3 months ago. No problems yet. Mine was a larger aftermarket model. If this one goes bad I am going to add the infamous fan on top.

 

This site is awesome, thanks for all the help.
I checked my wiring and all electrical tests which were OK except running at 5000rpm I got 11.6v. The battery was holding 12.8 and it's the original for my 98. The rr is $220 CDN for the oem Honda at all the dealers around Ottawa.
Once again thanks for this site and all the A-1 members.
Cheers & man I love this bike!