Cleaning carbs

Just about 1/2" so far, Warren. I was concerned when i first used round gaskets that they would want to keep squirming out of their groove, but they sit nicely.

 

Be careful about using brake fluid on rubber parts used in petroleum applications, and vise versa, in using petroleum oils and compounds around brake lines, orings, and seals. They all look like 'rubber' because they are black, but have vastly different properties. Parker has an oring guide which lists compatibility tables for nearly every chemical known. Put petroleum oil on a brake seal and watch it expand...

i just rub a little motor oil on all the metal lips and rubber boots where they need to slide and they pop back on with very little force as long as the clamps are loose enough to allow the rubber to expand over the lip, otherwise you are fighting the steel clamp. This is much looser than you might first imagine--to the point of not touching the boot at all. Tricky to hold loose clamps in place, but it can be done by setting the rack in place with the clamps touching the boots, then back out the screws till the clamps dangle--that's the secret method not written in the books...

 

I use marital lubricant or single person not wanting disease/children on the rubber inulator boots (if it wont destroy a safety, its good for the bikee.) Sed, in the most eloquent way that my cranium could come up with, but I am sure some A-Loha Monkey is gona twist it into a perversion.

 

Just exactly WHICH precisely (of so many choices) motor oil, kennybobby, would you suggest, and would SlicK 50 be suitable too for the task at hand ? How about a few glistening drops of extra virgin first cold pressed Sicilian olive oil, that OK for boots without rotten'em out ??


Thanks for the compractatibility guide, KB. Should prove vital buildibng them Alebammy backwoods stills behind the rocket facktory plant, huh ?? huh ??

 

Awesome thread guys i have a 87 vfr700f that i had running but took carbs off not realizing what a pain in the ass it is to get the carb back on with boots frozen and the 2 chokes working a some sticky and having to play with and bend the levers is not fun still havent got the floats all to work correctly. I was going to get the stage 2 dyno jet kit which comes with 124 or 128 with drilled slides. I was wondering what main jet i could use to give me a little more power for yoshimura exhaust and modded air box. I would like to get just mains and make throw in shims on stock needles if possible or get aftermarket needle jets with E-clip where can i find these 2 jets at i need 128 or 128 mains and needle jet.

 

Krondoe, I have the same bike with a stage 2 Dyne jet kit in it. I put the bigger jets in cause I have the K&N filter, modded airbox, and 4-2-1 exhaust, and I can tell ya that my bike runs rich as hell. I'm sure a competent tuner can figure out what is going on with it, but you'll definitely want (or maybe even need) it professionally tuned once you get it back together.

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I don't think anyone likes the Dynojet kits. Their needles are very different from factory. It might be best to stick to the stock needles and shim them up a little if necessary.

As for jets, you can get precision drill bits from tool supply places and enlarge them yourself. You just need a chart to convert the jet size to a wire size and get the drill bit you need. Then remove the factory jet size from the side of the drilled jet so no one confuses it as a factory size.

Installing carbs with old boots isn't worth the aggravation, you can get new boots for about $6 each from Honda. You can even soak them in hot water to make them softer.

It's so difficult changing jets, etc... that I just left everything stock and used a paper filter. Clean the carbs internally really well, set the float heights, set the pilot screws 2.5 turns out to start with, sync the carbs and it runs like a champ.

 

Not going to blather on aboot how awful Dyno-jet kits are but I think the best advise I can give you on jetting is that a little is a lot.

 

Squirrelman:
Would applying a small amount of dish soap to the inside of the boots for a lubricant be a bad idea because of the interaction with the carb metal?
I did this over the weekend to help seat the boots... It worked but before I put the whole bike back together I may want to fix this.
Thanks

 

Yes, i'm no chemist but would remove detergent but i really wouldn't claim to know...:redface:

 

I am not a chemist either but what I use is the stuff you use in the bedroom, or where ever else you get "jiggy with it." What is it called? Sex Lube? My theory is this: if it won't screw up a condominum, its not gona degrade your insulator boots. And for all you perverted sods oot there, this is too easy for yous'. Just dont let your old lady/significant other/life partner catch you with that KY in the garage, your gona have a tough time explaining, and dont leave grease paw prints on the bottle. Nuff Sed...Thats the way I treat my viffer, after all, she is my "First Wife."

 

Hey, some guys out there might just prefer to get it on with their VFR more so than their wife. It takes all kinds nowadays.

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Just one guy frum Texass is enuff.

 

Hey, at least I ain't from Cali. It could always be worse.

 

Got the 87vfr700 running

I got the bike running i ended up cracking the plastic cheap fuel tubes. So i went on ebay and seen they make aluminum fuel and air tubes for this bike for $70. I bought those and they fit like a glove. I decided to get the carbs back together. I used the stock 38 and 118 jets for now. i boiled the rubber boots and it helped a little cause they were hard as a rock with this cold indiana weather. I left the idle screws where they were cleaned all passages in carbs . check float heights didn't need any adjustment. there are tiny springs on the throttle levers underneath the flat head screws i went ahead and just put screws in those 2 holes on each side of the 2 carbs cause i could get the tiny springs to fit back in there just a pain. I found some tiny screws and screwed them in till they touched the throttle levers on each side and it worked fine. I could seem to sync the carb with the paper drag method but i got them as close as i could without using a sync kit for $80 or make my own. I ran the bike without the damn metal air cover box and air filter box to get it started first cause it was a pain to get all 8 screws into the Throttle bodies. I drove it down the street and it rips but seem like it was getting a little to much air so i got the air box and metal cover on by prying on carbs carefully to get all 8 screws in now im gonna test drive is again tmw to see if theres any difference in higher rpm's them im going to try the 128 jets i ordered. But Yeah Screw the dynojet kit they charged way to much i just returned it.

 

i want to put individual cone air filters on the bike. i see the 84-86 vfr's have the rubber velocity stack and the 90-93 vfr750's have metal velocity stacks. Is there anyway to fit those onto my carbs so i can run the cone air filters inside the metal air box with 8 screws that connect to carbs and just run filters off the velocitys stacks or is there any other way to do this. Any help would be appreicated. Trying to find new fairings and tail section is kinda a pain with this french website poly 26 and print out bullshit cant find a page for credit card info lol. Thinking of just running without fairings or possibly making it like a street fighter/cafe racer. i been doing alot of research the past couple day also seen they make plastic reapir kits. I gonna post pictures of the bike tmw.

 

ridervfr LMFAO thats hilarious i just rubbed some oil on the boots before i installed them but might have been a good idea to use the lubricating jelly that my woman bought me hahahaha.

 

Hey there krondoe, glad it was a happy ending, dont let the little woman catch you! Can you post the hyper-link from the ebay auction that you won those "tubes?" I like to keep up on that stuff.

I am soaking a carb over night in a dunk basket from Gumoot. Its a little turd of a single cylinder bike, and I if I can't get it running after that its either a chinese carb, a donor carb, or a bullet. Makes me wish I still worked on the Miami River, this way I could give it a push and be done with it!'

:thumbsup:

 

Just cuz accuracy counts here: no VFRs before '86, and those had no stacks in airbox.

What advantage with individual filters (that would require some retuning), would you expect, a couple more ponys @ WOT....... but you ride urban roads and expressways, need smooth mid-range.......?? Compromises. On a track bike standard, but not much improvement on the street at practical speeds.

 

Did you separate the carbs from the large upper housing? That's a big no no. You always keep them together. Any time you separate them you run the risk of breaking a plastic tube and also throw the carbs out of sync. They can be cleaned and rebuilt all as one assembly.

What springs did you leave out? The linkage adjuster screws require springs to hold their adjustment.