VFR800 not turning on. FI doesn't come on when the key is turned to the on position.

Hi guys, I just got this bike about two weeks ago, only got to ride her the day I bought her in order to bring her home. After three days I had her parked I tried turning her on, but she wouldn't turn, the first few times I heard the FI at least come on, but after a few tries the FI wouldn't come on. I put a meter on the battery and the voltage wasn't very consistent. So I ordered a Yausa YTZ12S, installed it on her but still the same, the FI does not turn on, and the light doesn't come on either. I put a trickle charger on the battery hoping that it just needs to be charged up a bit. Anything help will be greatly appreciated.

Just wanted to add that the kill switch is on the ON position, and that the main fuse under the sit is also good.

Thanks

 

It's probably the kill switch on the right handle bar. Try flipping it on/off a few times. If that doesn't do it then take it apart and clean it up.

 

Two weeks, how about a picture?

Ok, welcome to forum and all the gremlins of low voltage wiring, connectors and switches. Time to learn how to take off side fairings to get to connections. If you need help with that let us know. Connectors for hand switches, stator, R/R (regulator) are all under these fairings, check main fuse holder, and connector by battery, then check all connectors for sign of heat discoloration. Pull them apart, are they clean or is there some white powder in there? Could be ignition switch, kill switch, or connectors. Try tapping kill switch to see if stuck, there was another thread a couple of days ago where that was the problem.

 

I tried flipping it on and off a few times, but nothing.


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Or pull off the little angeled body fuse cover on the right side, or if its ABS on the left and check fuses----

 

Yeah, the bike is at the storage now, I had to get back home, but I should be stopping sometime saturday. I'll start fiddling with the connectors then. Here's a picture for now.



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Ahhh that's where they are. I didn't have access to the internet at the time, and the phone wasn't really helping. I should be backat the storage on saturday, and I check them all out.

Thanks


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This will sound stupid but put the bike in neutral, then try. If still nothing then check frame connections and keyswitch connections. Work your way from frame to device to switch to fuse to battery. Also look at connectors for burn marks or discoloration. That is a sign of too much resistance in the connector.
Get the service book, there are two schematics for regular bikes and one for the abs model. Pay attention to the years each schematic covers. There are some kill switches and diodes (arrow pointed at a wall symbol) that need special attention. If you remove a diode make sure it goes back in the exact same way it came out. Use a sharpie to mark one end and the housing (looks like a regular fuse holder and fuse but they are not).
Follow the schematic to see connection points and to understand how it is supposed to work.

Im leaning on keyswitch or kill switch since you haven't poped any fuses.
happy hunting

 

Bike was in neutral on it's center stand, with the kill switch to the ON position. New battery installed, although after plugging the trickle charger it did seem not be fully charged. When the key is turned to the ON position, the lights come on, oil pressure light comes on, neutral light comes on, but no FI light. Upon pressing the start button the bike does nothing except the head lights go off.

I'll try all these things saturday once I head back to the storage.

Thanks


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Pull the front plastics off. Check the keyswitch and the relays it controls. Also the little fuse panel for fuses that are not fully in place.

As for battery not charging on trickle charge. Our bikes use power while turned off too. Your trickle charger may not give enough power to offset this usage and charge the battery. Best is to bulk charge the battery at 10amps until the current draw by the batter falls below 5amps then drop to 2a charge until this is less that 1amp draw. Then trickle charge to full with a 1amp trickle charger. An even better solution is to use a 3 or 5 stage smart charger as it will always have the correct setting.

 

This is an 06 fairly new
Damn I hate those Electronic Gramlin.
Many great suggestion above.......Let me think :disturbed:

 

I just sent him a PDF of wiring diagram.

 

Is the electrical system really that bad on these?


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View attachment 25814
Here, this might help too (click on image to enlarge)

There is another 30A fuse imbedded in the starter solenoid next to battery, check that too.

 

Awesome! Thanks


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No, not bad. Ive seen worse in cars and trucks. But if you dont have an inclination to electrical work, it can be intimidating. Most old schoolers like carbs over efi as it seems easier to diagnose and fix to them. Personally its the same shit just different shovel.

Allyance was kind enough to post a basic schematic for the kill system. Follow it and reference the main schematic. This will take time but is fairly easy. Just have patience and be methodical.

 

Yeah, I have a bit more experience working on my katana, which is carbed. But I'll try my best at following these schematics and learning my way around the VFR. Thanks


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Got my degree in Photographic Science, been selling and installing computers and networks for years, have my own web/email server, but damn, I can't figure out how to insert pictures in posts so they are large and readable without clicking on them!!!!

 

That's actually the one I checked, and it was good.


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There is another under the seat tucked in by the battery. White holder. That is the main fuse for the run to the fuse box up front.

The fuse in the starter relay is only for the start circuits.