Engine swap 6th gen anything I should know?

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Fantastic!, Dec 14, 2013.

  1. Fantastic!

    Fantastic! New Member

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    After all those threads about my engine woes I bought a 2005 engine from a crashed VFR and am doing the swap myself this monday-tuesday. Are there any special tools or odd sizes of sockets or hex keys that I need and probably don't have?(the service manual just says remove bolts and doesn't say what size they are) Is there anything in the service manual that people know is wrong or is easier to do another way?

    Basically: Tips&tricks for engine removal/installation on 6th gen?
     


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  2. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I think there are larger hex required.

    I find it's easiest to block up the engine real well and lift the frame off the engine.
     


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  3. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    +1 To what Tink said. Here's a pic of my ride almost fully stripped down. If you look at it, the engine is sitting on the jack, an the next step is to unbolt the frame fasteners and lift the frame off the engine. So the rebuild is just the reverse, set up engine on jack, build the bike around it. -- Good luck.
    [​IMG]
     


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  4. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    [video=youtube_share;vUYHyly65_M]http://youtu.be/vUYHyly65_M[/video]

    You don't have to strip everything off the frame like we did. The forks and everything can remain on the frame.
     


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  5. Fantastic!

    Fantastic! New Member

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    It looks like the swingarm is primarily on by a 17mm hex bolt. Is this correct? If so I need to go out and buy a 17mm hex but that isn't hard, just need to be sure.

    Also it is my intention to remove as little as possible, anything that can remain on the bike will.
     


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  6. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    I would take the extra step to remove the wheel and forks, may be easier in the long run.
     


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  7. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Suggest you try a compression test on the replacement engine before mounting it.

    Don't tighten any engine mounting bolts until they're all in place first, then work in 2 or 3 steps to bring them up to proppa torque specs.
     


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  8. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Dude - get a buddy who is more mechanically inclined to help.....:mechanic:
     


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  9. Fantastic!

    Fantastic! New Member

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    You can't make me :tyrannosaurus:

    1504357_591990537533403_935111980_o.jpg
    1492501_592036417528815_1182781666_o.jpg

    6 hours from start to engine out.
     


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  10. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    ^^^^ Good luck.
     


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  11. Fantastic!

    Fantastic! New Member

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    Someone had done some serious surgery on the wiring harness under the throttlebodies. Wires cut and spliced all over the place and one had been disconnected since before I bought this bike(green wire that connects to a triangle connector on the front cylinder head) no idea what it was for.

    [​IMG]

    I forgot to take a picture before leaving the garage today but here is a picture after my baby was back on her own feet. Currently headers and radiators are reattached and am letting the intake ports soak in MMO over night to clean them up. Throttle bodies still need reattachment as does most of the body work but I plan to ride with a minimum of plastics initially until I am satisfied.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2013


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  12. MrSleep

    MrSleep New Member

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    That's ...umm 'Fantastic!' Do you think the wiring could have been cause of the engine issues you were having? Do you plan on tearing the old engine down to find what the problem was?
     


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  13. Fantastic!

    Fantastic! New Member

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    I don't see how an electrical issue would cause massive blowby. I do intend to tear into it, I expect to find a broken/bent/absent ring or a cracked piston.
     


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  14. Fantastic!

    Fantastic! New Member

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    Need some help. When I tried to put the gas tank on today gasoline began flowing out of the evap canister's top port on the clutch side of the bike. This port never had any hose on it that I can remember and in the honda microfiche it doesn't either. Did I hook something up wrong somewhere?

    #14 goes to the fuel tank overfill port. #15 I have connected to a 4 way divider labeled F-40 in the second image. #13 is just the overfill drain line I thought. The only one I am slightly unsure about is #15.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


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  15. MrSleep

    MrSleep New Member

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    Look in the Fuel System section

    13 Is just a drain
    Top left nipple on evap can is a vent to let air into the fuel tank
    and has no hose
    15 goes to throttle bodies
    14 goes to air vent on tank
    On the front bottom of the gas tank there is an air vent tube and an overfill tube. They should be different sizes so you don't get them mixed up.
    If all is hooked up right then my guess is that when you were putting on the tank sloshing gas made it's way to the evap canister in which case it would be dumped out hose 13 to prevent damage to the canister.
     


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  16. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    toss the evap canister. youll thank me when you change your oil :)
     


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  17. Fantastic!

    Fantastic! New Member

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    What do you mean? Replace it?
     


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  18. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    Just get rid of it. It's dead weight and gets in the way of the oil filter.
     


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  19. Fantastic!

    Fantastic! New Member

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    Everything is buttoned up and she is purring like a kitten for once. I got to ride her a bit and oh my god is the engine smooth, no more surging or nothing! Love it.
     


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  20. MrSleep

    MrSleep New Member

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    Cool! Good to hear it all worked out. Interested in finding out what happened to original engine.
     


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