Service at 30,000 miles?

My 03 VFR has just reached 30,000 miles. Other than oil changes, tires and chain and sprocket replacements, I've done nothing for service in spite of Honda's service schedule. It runs great.

What would you recommend at this point? I don't want to spend many hundreds of dollars "just in case" something could go wrong over the next 30K miles but am willing to do what's necessary and prudent.

Thanks.

 

Honestly, just keep riding it. You can pay to have the valves checked but my guess is they will all still be in spec. just based on the fact you say the bike is running great. :smile: My good friend owns Service Honda and they routinely tell people to save their money, hehe.

 

I would invest a little $$$ to change the plugs and coolants flush all the fluid, air filter so she can breath better..........Keep on riding :thumb:

 

As others have said its important to do the basics - oil plugs and filters need changing, also check the state of brakes and tyres(tires).

I take it you know that your bike is approaching the recommended second vtec valve inspection (32K). That will not be cheap unless you are prepared to DIY as it entails a lot of labour hours. Search on here and you will see the merits have been frequently discussed - but its entirely your call whether or not you get the check done. If you or previous owners have been riding the bike hard then adjustments may be needed and the cost justified. (My bike has covered over 80,000 km - of mostly touring riding and the valves are still all in spec.)

If you have time to spare, it may be worth giving the electrics a quick visual check over - as they tend to be the Achilles heal of VFRs. Remove the fairings and examine the charging system wiring for signs of charring/melting - especially earthing points and the connectors linking stator and RR. Whilst the stator is under a cover on the clutch side of the bike - the wiring actually runs through the engine bay to the throttle side of the bike where you will see three yellow wires which hook to the RR inside a connector under a semi transparent splash shield.

If nothing else, it will give you a chance to clear the usual 5kg of dirt which you will find has built up at the bottom of the fairing panels :smile: If things look ominous then buy a multi-meter and search on here for Rubo's post - AKA the drill.

Take care






SkiMad

 

skip valve adjust
flush brake n clutch fluid
flush coolant
change fuel filter
change fork oil

keep it cheap n simple

 

Kobe, thats exactly what I have done recently----Just keepin an ear open for any unusual sounds like ticking and such.....

 

You should do the "poor-mans-clutch service" every year at least, or when the fluid is getting durty. Simply take off your massa-rez-cap on the clutch side while the bike perfectly upright and take a turkey baster, ball-syringe, paper towels, and sop oot that crusty (not to be confused with CrustyRider :flip clutch fluid and pour some of your choice DOT 4 stuff in there. Its quick and dirty but keeps things happy. Adventually, things perish and your gona have to replace stuff, I believe in braided lines for brakes and added one on my clutch side a few years ago...Cheer :drinkers:

 

I'd suggest a headset bearings check. Remove steering stem, clean grease off bearings and wash in solvent,looking for signs of wear, then re-grease or just replace them with OEM. most are shot by 35-40,000 miles ( less if you ride over potholes or RR tracks, wheelies), with multiple dents on every ball, easily visible under 10X magnification, with dents on races too, worst damage where the wheel is straight, and you'll usually want to replace bearings if you look closely enough. not an area to cheapout.:eagerness:

I've seen some comparatively light-weight Hawks with ripped-up head bearings @ 35,000, and the VFR is alot more mass.