1986 VF500F Interceptor Minor Overhaul

Hello everyone!

I just registered on this thread because I bought my first set of wheels about 3 weeks ago. For some reason I was getting redirected to spam a few weeks ago when linking through google, but no longer! Props to the techie guys at VFRWorld for sorting that out!

Anyway, I got the bike for a grand from a guy I knew, who bought it off his 16-year-old daughter's boyfriend because, well, 16-year-old daughter, motorcycle, bad combo. It ran just fine and I noticed a bit of surface rust in the tank, which didn't seem to be a problem. Yokoshima forks in the front, which is good because I've heard these bikes sometimes have fork problems. Anyway, I ran it for about 750 clicks (470 miles or so), noticing a little bit of noise coming from the engine, which seemed to vibrate a little more than it should, having set aside a weekend to do some basic maintenance (valve adjustment, oil&filter change, spark plugs, air filter).



Well I was on my way into work on Wednesday, waiting to get on the onramp, when suddenly, my RPM's dropped to 600 or so at idle and the engine started chugging. I gave it throttle and it responded, however reluctantly. Got on the onramp, took it to work, and called pops right away. He arrived after my shift with the trailer and some straps to take the bike to his garage. Having already wiggled all the wires around earlier, and not seen anything change, I started it up to show my dad the problem (He knows bikes pretty well). The engine started fine for about 10 seconds, but the problems reappeared. Heavy chugging, poor low-rpm throttle response, noise. Tomorrow I would make my way back over on the dreaded BUS and have a look at it.



So, first things first, we removed all the body panels. Then we pulled the tank. During draining we found - DUN DUN DUN - the dreaded rust! Not a lot, but a few little flakes floating around in there. We pulled out the fuel strainer cap and to my surprise - NO STRAINER! What the heck... why would anyone completely remove the strainer instead of cleaning and replacing? Rust all in the cap, rust in the petcock valve, etc. And shortly after we realised that there is no fuel filter on these bikes. So raw fuel has been running into my carbs... ugh. I was going to wait until next season to recoat the tank and clean out the carbs, but it looks like I'm going to be doing this work late in the season now (License test is booked for Oct 7th or it expires)... so I've got to get her going. :frown: Looks like I'm going to be doing some serious work:





- Tank strip, clean & coat
- Carb cleaning
- Valve adjustment, while we're at it.
- Spark plugs, while we're at it.
- Air filter (very dirty, possibly adds to carb gunk)
- Flush and fill brake and clutch lines w/ new DOT-4 fluid
- Probably won't hurt to do an oil filter and change, although the oil on the dipstick at least looks clear as day, golden like the sunshine (Good sign).
- Blow out rad, straighten fins, collant drain & fill

So my work is seriously cut out for me.

Update 1: Tank pulled, Airbox pulled, Carbs pulled, Rad pulled. Going back tomorrow to do valve adjustment (Will have to pull clutch slave cylinder, other parts as specified in the manual). Geez, getting those throttle cables off the carbs was a @#$% and a half! And draining the coolant from the engine cylinders... what a pain! Wound up using a ratcheting wrench with all of one click of swing when I took it to the limit! Also, going to be installing some in-line fuel filters after the Y-split on the fuel line. I've read that filters are impossible to get into the 5/8 section so it looks like it will be 2 fuel filters, one in each of the 1/2 sections. Fuel strainers seem to be impossible to find so fuggetaboutit. Filters should do the trick.

Parts purchased:

- POR-15 HD Motorcycle Repair Kit: HEAVY DUTY CYCLE TANK REPAIR KIT (No ETA, but I ordered it locally and they're shipping with Purolator so it shouldn't take long)
- Carb hardware and seals: Basic Carb KIT V30 Magna Sabre Interceptor Honda V4 | eBay (ETA Sept. 22nd-October 1st (Yikes))
- Prestone Dot-4 Brake fluid

Parts to buy:

- Air Filter
- Spark Plugs
- Oil Filter
- Fuel filters

Fluids to buy:
- Coolant (EG)
- Carb Cleaner
- Oil (Pref. Shell Rotella 10W-40 as reccomended by my brother, although this seems to be impossible to find at the ideal viscosity... 0W-30 and 15W-40 readily available)

Questions:
- POR-15: Has anyone used POR-15? What should I expect? Pointers? I realise it's some serious chemical @#$% and I have read the instructions and watched a few videos but I need to know what to expect! My worst fear is that the stripper or rust remover will eat through the tank, particularly one tiny spot where paint has flaked off and I can see rust on the exterior... hopefully it hasn't rusted right through anywhere (seams, etc.). Also it looks like the tank has been coated before, thus the HD kit (to remove "inferior" coatings). I've been told to stay away from Kreem and so that's why I've gone with POR-15. Everyone who used it right seems to be boasting about it.
- Fuel filters: What micron rating should I use? How many GPH freeflow? I'm going to use two filters and that's one for two carbs... it's been a while 'since I've been to college so I'm not sure if more filters = more restriction or by using two in parallel I can use tighter filters and keep more gunk out because two carbs demand less fuel than four. I think the latter is right but please help me out.
- Oil filters: How does FRAM compare to NAPA? Same thing really? My bro told me to go with a NAPA gold (Fil 1334) but FRAMs are locally available
- Oil: What would you reccomend?
- Coolant: What would you reccomend?
- Spark plugs: Should I go with the standard NGK DPR9EA-9's or would iridium DPR8EIX-9's be better? The service manual reccomends DPR9EA-9 for standard use, or DPR8EA-9 for colder climate, which the iridium plugs are meant to replace.
- Comments? Questions? Concerns?
- What would you reccomend for getting all the dust off the airbox? I don't want to use gear oil because I know it's not combustible and I don't want it getting into my cylinders thru vapours from intake at all. It's ok, go ahead, call me a perfectionist.
- I drained coolant from the front two cylinders but I was wondering if the back two also have to be drained. If so, how the heck would I get at them?

I totally owe my dad a 24 when all this is over. Will post back with some tank pictures so y'all can get a gauge on how bad it is.

 

Perfectionists wouldn't allow a VF500 in their garage. Good luck, you'll need alot.

These bikes are either lovingly preserved by their riders or found in a seriously deteriorated condition which may or may not be reversible.

You sure didn't study our site before purchase, dija ??

Do a compression test (even cold) first to see if you're wasting your time and money on something that won't run right. For tank coating, i like the www.caswellplating.com fuel tank sealler. Standard plugs only, unless they come out black most of the times you check.

 

Fuel filters- Use these, one on each side of the carb input (you will need two) [use promo code trt30 to get 30% off]
Buy Purolator Fuel Filter F10024 at Advance Auto Parts
Will look like this:


FRAM is OK as long as you change it right at the service limit. you can get an OEM honda oil change (filter, three quarts)
Honda VF500F 84 85 86 Interceptor Oil Change Kit | eBay
Use 10w-40 motorcycle oil, the honda oil is the most recommended, then mobil 1, then any other brand =p

standard coolant

Go with copper. Iridiums are nice and all, but pointless on a bike. Copper NGKs are OEM, use those

for dust use a wet rag. Gear oil can be used lightly to make faded black plastic black again

To remove rust, get a ton of bolts, dump them in the tank, and then pack it in the dryer with a bunch of wadding (WITH THE HEAT SETTING OFF). This pretty much turns it into a big rock tumbler, the bolts knock all the rust loose. You MUST use a gas tank sealer after this process or you will just be wasting your time. Rust on the OUTSIDE of the tank can jsut be sanded down and re-primered with some rustoleum rusty metal primer, it has some rust converters in it to aid in adhesion, and don't just leave it primered either, unpainted primer absorbs moisture!

 

Also,

Buy this air filter: K N Air Filter 84 86 Fits Honda VF500F Interceptor | eBay

Use 3" x 1/16" o-rings for bowl gaskets, you can get these at a hydraulic shop

Change your headlight. it's most likely much dimemr than it should be Philips 9003 XPS2 x Treme Power Headlight Bulb One Bulb | eBay