Brake Fluid - Effects of Age.

I have a dumb question for folks that may know more about these things than I. (I am no mechanic)

I recently purchased a 2003 VFR800 ABS model with 9k miles - and love the bike. I have been riding it for a couple months and 3k miles - and wanted to do the minor service that was due.

I had no idea if the previous owners had ever changed the brake fluid and clutch fluid. The fluid was still quite clear thru the site glasses - but I wanted to be safe, so I had it changed by the shop - and I am actually - I THINK - feeling much better braking performance. More bite - more overall power. I am actually surprised that this made any difference - and wonder if it is in my head.

Can anyone tell me what the performance effects are of running old brake fluid? While the braking was not terrible, I felt a kind of mushiness - and that I did not have as much intensity as on my old SV650. I attributed this to the LBS system - which I had never had before - and just squeezed the lever harder. I also attributed it to the bike being heavier.

Curious to know what folks think of this - though I am now happy with the things.
Thx

Rick

 

+1 to above......And if you like some power break replace the pad with EBC HH or Gaffer

 

Thx for the advice guys.

 

in automotive they recommend a brake flush for spongy brakes, so definitly makes sense.

 

Better check the blinker fluid before all your turn signals stop working :biggrin:

Just kidding with ya' I think Derstuka just about covered it all. Welcome to the V4 family btw!!


Rollin

 

If you think your brakes are getting spongy, cable tie the brake lever tight over night. The next day your brakes will be rock hard. Do this before bleeding them too as I think it forces the air in the system to the top of the master cylinder.

 

Brake and clutch fluid is hygroscopic. During cold spells the water can freeze. Not a good thing.

 

More importantly, it is recommended by the manufacturers that you change your brake fluid EVERY 24 months/2 years !

Most people seem to think its a black art, but if all you are doing is flushing the system, then its pretty painless. Prep the areas with bleed nipples, by removing all dirt & then I use a water mister spray around the bleed nipples, to ensure any leakage will dilute on contact. The mist forms drips which wets the way for any fluid drips ! Cover the area around the MC (master cylinder) cover, clean & open it, I use a bungy to hold the bars at full left lock to ensure they don't get nudged & spill fluid from the MC.

If its been a while since its been changed, best to empty the calipers of fluid too, just fit a bleed line to each caliper then open the bleed, pull the brake lever & lock it in the pulled position with a tie of some sort, big elastic band, velcro strap etc. Then with the nipple still open, grab the caliper & disc & squeeze the caliper against the disc. If the seals are all good & free moving, including the sliding mechanism, then the caliper will move easily under a constant pressure. If you need loats of force to push the caliper, then the seals or the sliding mechanism need servicing. Close the nipple & release the brake lever then open the open nipple & let the fluid drain under gravity, add new fluid to the MC just before it gets empty, let it run until clear fluid comes out of the nipple. Alternately you can open nipple/pump brake/close nipple release brake, repeat. Close the nipple & pump the brake lever to force pistons out with fresh fluid behind them !

Repeat for all nipples/calipers in the system. Activate the brake a few times to encourage fluid mixing if it has not been changed for some time, then repeat.

If done at recommended intervals the fluid mixing is NOT required. If it's been a long time, then a brake caliper strip is probably in order, to check the seals & ensure the fluid in the caliper is replaced with fresh fluid. Same for the clutch, in fact the clutch needs doing more often, as it collects oil from the chain/sprocket cover. Definately should be done every two years !

Have fun

 

I hate to be a dissenter here, but IMO changing brake fluid every two years borders on silly. How many cars do you see losing their brakes because the haven't bled and changed the brake fluid since they bought the car ten years ago? Manufacturers may recommend changing it, but I think it's mainly a CYA for them.

Mind you I'm not saying it's a bad idea by any stretch of the imagination but every 2 years is over kill. Unless you do track days, or lots of twisty roads and really overuse your brakes.

When I installed the Galfer stainless brake lines I replaced the brake fluid with new, of course. The bike had the original brake fluid: 13 years old, and 35,000 miles. The brake line, clutch line, brake pads, and fluid change went smoothly and the brakes are great. But in all honesty they are not magnitudes better than stock. They are better, make no mistake about that, stronger with less effort, 2 fingers will lock up the front easily.

I'll be the first to admit that going 13 years on the original brake fluid may not be a good idea, but in reality the brakes have worked fine with no issues. They've been to the Ozarks several times, out to North Carolina and The Dragon several times, Colorado several times. No track days though. That would have been a different story IMO.

Again I'm not saying that changing brake fluid often is a bad idea, just saying it may not be necessary to change it so often. I may change mine in 5 years this time, we'll see how it goes.

Okay, now I'm ready for stones and arrows. otstir:

 

Changing brake fluid every 2 years will stop a lot of corrosion.

 

Yeah, but do many vehicles lose their brakes due to corrosion? And I don't know anyone who changes their cars' brake fluid. I've never changed a car's brake fluid in any car I've ever owned and I've had a total of 1 caliper freeze up after changing brake pads. And my cars generally have over 100,000 miles on them before they go away.

Now that being said, I have to rebuild a rear master cylinder on my FJ1200. Of course it's been sitting for about 8 years, so I guess I can't complain too badly.

 

And to add to what thx1138 said, it will also keep your brake pistons from seizing due to oxidation because of the presence of water in the brake fluid.

 

I'm waiting for 17 dudes to say they always change brake fluid in their cages once a month. Five of which will say they also change the fluid in the clutch cylinders even if they have auto trannys.

Just flushed and changed oot the fluid in the front of the mach 1 91. Lotsa crud in the bottom of the master cylinder.

 

I have one of those ear-wax bulb things that I evacuate brake fluid outa-my-massa cylinder on my two cages that I work on. I refuse to say "suck." Anywho, I do it when the mood strikes really and the stuff that comes oot, looks pretty decent.

Bikes on the other hand, you can do a fast and dirty service where you just open the brake/clutch caps and syphon oot the fluid and clean the rest of the mug up with some paper towels. Re-fill and admire your pretty DOT4 fluid thru the sight glass. I dont see it being a problem if you wana bleed those systems every 2, or 3 years though. Just dont forget to top off the blinker fluid ; )

 

Did just that wit the 91. It's legal here for pharmacies to sell syringes. they are cheap. Better than siphoning and ya don't get a mouthful of dot 4 which does not taste like either chicken or gas.

 

Another far out cosmic way to do it is to go from the bleeder valve up to the res. You can get one of those oil squirt cans and rig up a hose and then its kind of backwards, in that you open up the bleeder, pump the oil can lever, then close. Adventually, the fluid will reach the top. I do this when I am extremely bored though.

 

Someday there will be cosmic nannobots that will do this job. The readout will be, " Your fluids have been assimilated".

 

I agree with FJ12 to a certain extent. Yes my four wheel vehicles only get fluid added when needed and changed when I do the brakes.

On the other hand I change fluids in my bike about 2-3 years. Even though the fluid still looks decent and works fine, I'm getting any and all contaminates out of the systems. May be that's why I still have the original master cylinders and calipers. Each one got rebuilt about five years ago, they all looked new on the inside.

If you don't keep bikes for any long term then it really doesn't matter. Let the next guy worry about it.

 

I bought a Harley once. Kept it for about three months. Maybe the next guy put juice brakes on it..