What the heck is this clicking noise?

Did you replace the exhaust gaskets when you did this exhaust work? Maybe it's an exhaust leak. Or maybe one of those collars at the top of the headers has rattled loose.

 

I did put new gaskets in, but I'll try tightening the bolts a little more. I thought I had them pretty tight, but I'll double check tonight.

I mentioned this to a friend of mine at school, and he said the change in back pressure from the new mufflers could maybe change how the valves act. But these are just slip-ons; they aren't even supposed to require re-jetting, so I wouldn't think they could cause that serious of a pressure change!

 

Dang it, I went to check the tightness on the header bolts, and I found I don't even have the right socket at my apartment. Somehow I am missing everything smaller than 11mm :frusty:

I did check the engine oil level though, and it's just right, so that's one possibility off the list.

I think my mom can drop off the old mufflers down here some time this week, so I'm gonna try putting them back on for a minute and see if that changes anything. I don't see how it possibly could though:noidea:

 

Sorry! My bad!

 

I wouldn't waste the time, they probably won't change anything. I figured maybe the difference in sound might make the noise seem louder. Check the valves and maybe one locknut is loose or they just need to be adjusted.

 

nice bike and F-1 install.

 

You're probably right... I'm thinking I'll try to do the valves this weekend

 

when checking the valve clearance also check the cam chain tensioners for wear...I know the VF700/750 cam chain tensioners would give out after 20,000-25,000 miles...

 

Do any of you guys have any pictures of what it looks like in there? My Clymer manual doesn't have any decent pictures of what I actually have to measure.

Also, how can you tell if the cam chain tensioners are too worn out?

 

There will be threaded adjusters, with locknuts on them, that press on the valve stems. This is where you'll slide the feeler gauges between, this is where having two sets of gauges come in handy, as one rockerarm actuates two valves.

As for the tensioners, it's more of the sliders or shoes wearing, although there are springs in the actual tensioners that could lose their spring. The sliders are long, thin, black pieces that the chains rub against, one in the front and one in the back of each head, and I don't think you can change them out without disassembling the engine (at least on the 1000 you can't).

 

For adjusting valves slide one .005 feeler guage under each adjuster per rocker arm - this eliminates any cam slop.
- I bent my guages to a 45 degree angle to make it easier
- After adjusting the screw, rotate the engine until pressure is applied to the adjuster. Now you can tighten the nut without moving the adjustement screw. On some of them, you can rotate the engine and move the nut higher in the head so you can get a socket on it.
- After tightening the nut, rotate the engine several times to "set" the valves and check again. If out of spec, redo.

The issue with the tensioners is that the cam chains can stretch further than the tensioners can adjust for.
- Take your valve covers off and see if you can deflect the cam chain at several points in the engine's rotation (tip: use starter). If deflection of at least 1/4" is found, replacing tensioners is recommended
- If the cam chain is loose enough, it can slip a tooth and mess up your timing. On a personal note, my V45 Magna had cam chain noise at 40K due to a "loose" cam chain. I rode it for another 12K miles before I traded it.
- Honda made several tensioner changes during the years of production.
- If you order tensioners - you will get the latest version.
- To replace the cam chains with OEM(endless), you will need to split the cases. However Dave Dodge sells the tensioners and cam chains with a master link. He can be contacted at info@drp123.com or call him at (704) 892-7961.
- Tensioner replacement can be done without removing the head.

 

Cool, good tips mason!

I just brought my bike to school and parked it in the underground lot... it will live here until I get it to work!

I'm planning on getting started tomorrow, or maybe Friday. I will keep you guys informed!

 

Ok guys, I started taking stuff apart! I got most of the stuff off, but then I had to go to class. All I need to remove now is the spark plugs, and then I can start checking the valves.

I noticed around the valves, there was a little bit of oil that was kind of milky. My buddy said that might be from coolant getting into the oil. I never noticed that the oil was milky when I changed it recently though. Is that a head gasket isssue, and is it likely to be serious?

I took a bunch of pictures before, ut I'm still at school now, so I'll upload them later tonight!

 

Good looking bike you have there. Hmm sounds to me it's valves. also on the glup side, some of the VF500s had cam oiling trouble and cam chain trouble. most where covered with a recall. I'd definitely asap this but you should be able to do the valves as stated screw adjusters. just funny it wasn't there then it was, most of the time valves just slowly get loss which BTW is better than tight. Does it get less once warmed up? Definitely not exhaust. put you hand up on the area around the head some time you can actually feel the valve being pounded. was going to ask if it gets worse with RPMs, but the video clearly says it does.

 

No, it doesn't get any better once it's warmed up.

I forgot to bring the camera home tonight, so I'll have to upload those pictures I promised tomorrow!!!

 

Did you feel around where the headers contact the head to feel for air or the ticking noise? One time I had a bad gasket in there and it sounded like a bad valve spring but it was just gas getting by the gasket. It was an easy fix too.

 

I tried that and I couldn't feel anything.... but if this valve adjustment doesn't take care of it, I'll replace those gaskets again anyway.

 

Did you listen for ticking? You might try a length of hose if you can't reach it. But if that isn't it a valve maybe ticking. Use the hose to listen around the bike for the area that it is coming from.

 

Well I'm already doing the valves now, so I'll give that a try if it doesn't work.

Anyway, in my service manual it says you have to remove the clutch cylinder to do this. Any ideas why? I already did it, but I don't see what the point was... I'm pretty sure I still could've gotten the alternator cover off with the slave cylinder on!

 

Ok look at this picture I took...



Now where do I stick all these feeler gauges? The picture in the manual is way too dark to even see anything. It just says to put one "between the valve stem and the valve adjuster", and then use a separate one at 'both measurement points on a common rocker arm." I can guess where the first one goes, but what are the measurement points?!