Did the Compu-Fire Upgrade

Well, because I figured my OEM SH R/R would eventually fail, I went ahead and got the CF Series 3 unit and did the install this evening. Thanks to all of you who gave me advice on this. Wired directly to battery with 40A in line fuse. Actually decided to use the plug that came with the unit for the connection to the stator. Seemed like a robust connector, so soldered the stator wires to the connector mate and plugged her in.

Before and after readings at the battery:

Original SH R/R -

12.3 bike off, battery green on Battery Tender Jr.
13.3 - 13.5 at idle
14.7 at 5k

New CF R/R -

13.06 bike off (had run it before taking the readings so had been charged by the motor somewhat)
14.34 - 14.40 at idle (was a bit jumpy though in a somewhat tight range)
14.37 at 3k and up (did not change from 3-5K, didn't go over 5K due to neighbors BBQing )

If those of you who have done this install, if these new readings don't look right, please let me know.

I actually thing the old unit was in the midst of failing. My battery was never super strong, even though it was less than 2 mos old. We'll see now how it holds up and whether I start to get a better charge / starting power.

So far so good, just garage tested though. Will be a couple of weeks before I can really road test her due to quick vacation in the northwoods with family, but w/o VFRs.

I'll report back again when I get a longer term read.

John

 

Hmmm. 20A connector with a 40A fuse. That doesn't sound like the best idea long term. So I'll switch that out sometime when I have a chance to get the other connectors. Should be easy enough.

 

Ok, good to know. thanks. I'll switch out the 40 that came with it to a 30A.

 

I got about 1.5 years and 15,000 miles out of my compufire before it gave up the ghost. It also would over charge anytime you were over 10,000 rpms the voltage would spike to 17 volts. I am using the fh020aa now

 

no sorry i didnt. im pretty sure i threw it out.
thanks mello dude i appreciate it!

 

Have been out of town for a bit but put a few hundred miles on the new R/R yesterday. I also installed a new Datel meter - nice unit, cool green readout, flush mounted to left side fairing (will post picture). The new meter stayed pretty level at 13.5 to 13.7 volts. I did make the mistake of running it to the headlight beam thinking that was always on, but in fact it turns off when you hit the high beam (and with it off goes the new meter) so I'll have to find a new pos and neg lines to tap.

Does anyone know if it makes any difference where you tap into the flow to measure volts flowing in the system? Like would tapping the headlight (when it's on) have been any different than tapping into any other pos and neg lines on the bike? Any good suggestions for always on line plus neg to tap?

Thanks

John

 

When I wired my voltmeter, everything that I tapped into was a volt or two low. It drove me crazy. I wound up having to run it straight to the battery with a fuse and switch in between.

Ps if you have the compufire on, check your voltage at redline. My compufire could not handle high rpms.

 

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Since I have it installed, I think I'll wire to my Fuzeblock / switched side and see how the readings act when riding. I know I owe a picture of the Datel install and will post it to that thread.

Also, was in a hurry on last post so here's some more info on the CF ride checkout. First, the bike seemed to be running about 10 degrees cooler throughout the day. Air temp approached 85, hot enough to begin to be uncomfortable in my Stich jacket, and bike never got above 205 - mostly sub 200 in fact. I've seen it run as hot as 226 or so, but at 85, my recollection is that it would have been around 210 / 215. There was noticably less heat on the left side of the seat / leg area, which I expected. But also less heat on the right boot / calf area from the pipes. So overall seemed way cooler. Will continue to monitor on hotter days.

Second, bike seemed measurably quicker. This I did not expect. In the past, the bike was pretty quick in the morning at the beginning of my ride. By later in the morning or afternoon, it would seem a bit more sluggish. Now, it just seems quicker overall, morning, afternoon, whatever. Mind you this is just one day so we'll see how it shapes up over time. And it could be the power of suggestion. Does anyone else experience that sort of performance pickup when changing out the RR? Is this just wishful thinking?


John

 

You're totally right about the bike running cooler with a series rr. My bike ran cooler with the compufire rr also. With the rr only drawing as much current as the bike needs the stator doesn't get nearly as hot as it would with a shunt rr, so you get much less oil heating by the stator.

As far as more power... Eh It does seem to rev more freely as there is less drag, but I have ran the 1/4 mile with and with out an rr and I saw no gains.

 

Well, like I said, power of suggestion maybe. Even if true though, it's just such a fun bike to ride. When I did a Freddie Spencer class several years ago, the instructors ran VFRs and had them up on one wheel easily and often. I'm not quite that adventurous and definitely not that talented but it sure does sound like fun to get a little air under the front end now and then. I don't really know how to accomplish that however without dropping the clutch and that seems like it might hurt the mechanics...but i digress. Bottom line, happy with the new RR. Thanks for all your advice.

 

Run in first gear up to about 9000 rpms, roll off the gas and the back on.
Be careful, as it will come up, very easily.

 

Sounds pretty easy. About how fast will I be going at that point?

 

id say about 40-45ish
practice with an empty tank of gas
with all your gear on
be super careful
roll off the gas before it gets too sketcky
try to let down gently so you dont blow out your front forks
cover the rear brake as a last resort, though i have never had to do this
dont do on public roads

 

I'll have to find an abandoned airport maybe.