Clutch Throw Almost Nothing

I haven't had a chance to ride the VFR much as of late. I changed the oil maybe 2 months ago. Only rode it 2-3 times after that, so it did a lot of sitting (It has been in the mid to upper 90's here, or pouring rain).

I checked the oil level on the center stand and it looked fine. Just under the hole roughly 2 minutes after I shut the motor off. I did not have a chance to check the clutch fluid/level though.

Any recommendations when I get home and look over the bike?

Thanks,

 

You can blead them or refill, depend on when is the last time you flush.

 

The return orafice in the master cylinder is clogged and plugged with spooge. It is a tiny oralfice hole between the reservoir chamber and the piston chamber that provides a path for the fluid to return when the lever is released. When clogged the line remains pressurized and can cause slipping of the clutch plates, and a very short throw when you go to grab a handful of clutch (or brakes, has the same deal in that one too).

p.s. Go Flyers!

 

Just wanted to post 2 photos I took:

 

:hss: That fluid is uke: need a major flush and clean.......

 

Looks like sweet and sour sauce at the chinese restaurant--or jello shooters those girls want you to buy at the strip club.

The return orifice is under that little shiny metal disk at the bottom of the master reservoir--may have to rod it out with a piece of small wire.

 

With that color of fluid, and that much rust, I would take things apart and clean, clean, clean. Take apart master cylinder, slave cylinder, and flush the hose with some brake cleaner.

 

Pretty nasty shit!!! If you go thru the trouble of taking apart the massa-cylinder, I would pop for a genuine Honda rebuild kit and re-install, instead of using old dried up o-rings, etc.

I would also run it thru the slave cylinder until what you see is super clear fluid as all that nasty rust is in your slave (something, every man should have.)

Dont use brake cleaner on your master cylinder under no circumstances! your setting your self up for a clouded window and its not needed. Just use old fashioned elbow grease and some water, you can use the end of q-tip with the fuzzy part removed and clean the nooks and shit that way. You may get away with a cleaning and brake fluid enima.

 

ridervfr, water does not jive well with brake fluid. Actually, brake fluid absorbs water readily, which is the main reason rust is present when you do not change it every few years. Water also does not dissolve brake fluid, so it will not remove all the deposits and baked on layers of it on the inside surfaces. Further more, these baked on layers of old brake fluid will soak up some water, and make rust appear very quickly again when system is filled with new brake fluid.

If you have original OEM master cylinder, not some chinese replacement crap, sight window is made of a high grade acrylic, and will not haze or be affected by the brief wash down with brake fluid. I have done it many times, on all kinds of sight glass.

I also think that just running the fresh fluid through the slave cylinder will not be enough. You will not remove the debris that has accumulated there as it can not escape through the bleeder which is too small. Also, main issues in the slave cylinder are the piston and piston bore, which have the most crap trapped. Flushing will not get this out and ensure smooth operation, you have to disassemble it all in order to clean it thoroughly. Otherwise, this old crap will very quickly contaminate new fluid, and you are back to square 1.

+1 on new rubbers throughout, should not be much, maybe $40 or so ..... and will last you next 10 years.

 

Forgot to mention to use good DOT4 fluid, cheaper store brands usually do not have enough rust inhibitors and break down quicker.

 

Different strokes for different folks, I stay away from chemicals if I can, mind you with no adverse affects! If your thorough blowing off the item your working with, H20 will not affect anything, period end of story. I have rebuilt countless calipers and master cylinders and have never had an issue. When everything got re-assmebled it was as dry as my Gin Maritnis! When I did my calipers on my personal bike, I used a special aviation anodizing solution on the inside of the bores, and had to wash them under running water, I blew them off and dried them with paper towels, and have tits brakes. Btw-I used the old seals again with no probs, woulda ordered new ones but was impatient.

Word of caution on the slave cylinder, Honda does sell a re-build kit for the unit but the entire slave unit is a little more and you may find you have less problems on your re-assembly. My past experience with slave cylinders is this: They leak when you try and clean them up, least half a dozen bikes according to my foggy burned oot memory...Anyway, cheers and happy wrenching.

 

Oh the joys I look forward to lol. It's too damn hot for me to do any work, even in my garage/shed. 99* today and tomorrow, 110-115* heat index. I'm assuming I need to pull the fairing(s) off to get to other components of the clutch? Thanks all.

Did some cleaning of the hose area and the throw is back to normal.

 

You could get by without pulling any plastics, but I would remove left fairing, since it will be easier to work on the slave cylinder. The only component that is really hidden behind the fairing is the hose, which you will not remove/touch except to flush it.

FSM is your friend in these cases, even if it is a simple procedure, so study it good

 

Though I can't offer much help on doing the brake flush, rebuild, removal etc, I would definitely agree with mastergregor on removing the fairing pieces. One little spill of brake fluid on your fairings and you can kiss the paint good-bye. Brake fluid and paint DO NOT mix. Have a friend who thought he could top up his clutch master cylinder without removing or covering the fairing piece and he slopped a little over the edge of the master cylinder and it dribbled down and dripped off the bottom of the master on to the upper cowl piece of his fairing. He damn near shit himself when he realized what had happened about an hour later.