VFR Linked Braking

Anyone out there have any experience with eliminating the linked braking system on the 98-01 VFRs? Necessary mods, parts, pros, cons, etc? ???

 

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/scgi-b...066a280d0;act=ST;f=12;t=7649;hl=linked+brakes

Above is a post from another board. Seems these guys have done the mod. I thought about doing it as well when I first got my 98 but now that I'm use to it I decided to keep it, I'm actually starting to like it. Good luck.

 

Okay guys. I didn't get anywhere with the link I was given, so has anyone else out there removed the linked braking from their VFR? ???

 

Hey Don,

I've not done this, but my understanding is it's a MAJOR pain. And unless you have it done professionally, you're risking your life.
Here's a VFR article that talks about the linked brakes (toward the bottom of the page)

http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mchonda/98vfr800.html

RF

 

Here's a link to a method:

http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:...00008/msg02624.html+vfr+lbs+removal&hl=en

A better method may be the new fork lowers or new forks, calipers, m/c and custom cut lines. The rear has stumped me though, although the procedure in this link would seem to work.

Mike

 

I removed the LBS from my '99. Not that difficult but unless you were building a custom like mine I would just leave the brakes as they are.

My .02

 

I'm not going to begin to tell you what's right or whats wrong with disconnecting the linked brakes but....

I've been riding for over 40 years (roadraced, east coast enduros, etc.) and I think that linked brakes on a street bike is the neatest idea since sliced bread. Why in the world would you unhook it???

Have you ever locked the rear brake at speed? You really have controlled braking with the system and it balances out the weight distribution when used properly.

Any comments???

PS Send me your take-off parts.

 

I'm in the process of ripping it off my '98. It involves new forks and brake calipers also for the rear, tying all three pistons together and going to a smaller master cylinder. It been quite a project but I think it will be worth it.

 

Can't see the point in removing the linked braking system, it works particularly well in 2-up riding.
More to the point, does anyone know a supplier of a braided stainless steel replacement package? ??? ???

 

What is this? Buy a perfectly good, balanced bike and spend a pile of money to f**k it up! Honda has some of the best engineers in the world; if you don't want linked brakes buy something else! You remind me of the rednecks who jack up their pickups and put big wheels on and think they are "improving" the design. If you think you are such a brilliant designer, build a regulator/rectifier that works.

 

Amen to that.......

 

Hey Waldrm, if Honda has some of the best engineers in the world, why haven't they built a regulator/rectifier that works? Or designed a VFR cooling system that actually works on those rare occasions you get stuck in traffic in the summer?

And BTW, I posted this for a friend of mine who takes his VFR to track days at VIR and routinely spanks most everything, he just gets outbraked occasionally in the turns. I have never even thought about, as you so aptly put it, f**king (always heard cursing is the result of a limited vocabulary) with the linked braking on my 98.

Besides, the world would be a pretty monotonous place if we all shared the same thoughts and opinions.

 

Quite so, Don.
I'm just seeking to improve the braking using the long established solution of replacing tired rubber hoses with braided stainless steel versions, as I did on my old 750FL.
Doesn't look anything like as straightforward, though!

 

Lot of backlash here on delinking the brakes. Sorry but my riding style comes from a lot of years in motocross, separate brake actions are the rule - sometimes front only and sometimes rear only. It goes the same for me on the street in aggressive sport riding. I love this viffer but the brake redo was a must. I went with Super Hawk forks with stiffer springs, RC51 front calipers/master cylinder, and plumbed the rear caliper so that all 3 pistons work together and went to a 14mm master cylinder in the rear. PLUS, I removed about 6 pounds of linked brake junk/gear from the bike. For the front fender i had to machine brackets to adapt it to the SH fork. It took a lot of fiddling and figuring to nail all this down to this formula but I now have the sport bias brakes that I can USE. By the way Honda does have some great engineers, but I am a great engineer too!

 

What year is your friend's bike... Back when the 1998 VFR 800 came out, Motorcycle Consumer News braking tests pegged it at under 108 feet from 60 to 0. Check out the ten best 60-0 stops on this page...

Link: http://www.mcnews.com/mcnews/articles/TestBike-Index2-2001.pdf

The rest of the specs are here, if you're curious...

Link: http://www.mcnews.com/mcnews/articles/TestBike-Index1-2001.pdf

Personally, the only thing I miss with the linked brakes is the ability to use JUST the rear when I'm going down a slippery hill (grass, mud, whatever). However, that situation has only come up a couple of times in the few years I've owned mine, so overall, I like them more than I don't. The only other bad thing I can think of is that it could lull riders into developing some bad braking habits (i.e. using the front brake only) that could conceivably come back to haunt them if their next bike's brakes were un-linked.


Jake

 

Don, It's a pain to remove LBS. The easiest process I've seen is a full braking system implant. One guy I know swapped his front forks for superhawk legs and used all the superhawk brakes along with that. I don't know if he customized the rear caliper bracket for the single-swingarm. does save a lot of weight, which is key for racing. Honda brake parts are all pretty generic. Lines and master cylinders and calipers should pretty much swap right over. Good Luck!!

 

Wow this post just won't die. Removing the linked brakes is just a bad idea if you want to race get another bike the VFR weighs 500lbs and just isn't made for the track the forks and shocks don't have much adjustment. Not to say don't do a track day on it just get yourself a salvaged 600 and turn it into a race bike if you really feel the need to be super aggressive I also don't understand all these "aggressive" street riders needing separate breaks the only reason you would is to use the rear brake only is to trail brake and slide the rear tire into the corner if you're doing that on the street well then your just plain stupid and riding over your head there are plenty of pros who don't even do that it's not necessary other then at the very top levels of racing which I'm quite sure no one here is. Ride spirited on the street but leave aggressive riding on the track where it's meant to be so the cops and insurance companies will leave the rest of us alone. Also if you really are going to upgrade your brakes, change forks, etc... there are better options out there then a superhawk. Just my opinion and we know what opinions are like! ;D

 

Too bad

The first thing that I wanted to know upon hearing that I had less control on my most powerful bike was how to regain it.

The review that I found (1998 Honda VFR800 Intercepter Steet Test) seemed to indicate that there is a button somewhere (binders? Then they can be unbound, right?) But then these reviewers are braking in corners, and that shouldn't be necessary (maybe if you see a deer).
The guys who sold it to me (a pro shop with a good reputation) were (nonetheless) unaware that the bike was thus disabled and immediately recommended that I figure out how to disable it. I don't hold not knowing against them, of course.

I prefer to control my own brakes is all, and on a side note I don't think that there's anything wrong with people who ride beyond my level of ability (even if they do get the attention of the two branches of organized crime called police and insurance companies.) I'd rather study their work than insist that they stop.

 

im not trying to bring this thread back but damn this is a lame post.