Bump up the VFR’s horsepower?

That looks like a tight fit!

 

Well its based on what I know about RamAir & is not as tight as it looks, you need an Inlet duct, then you need an air speed reducer to increase pressure. So the inlet is fashioned like a triangle, the vissible inlet is on one V edge of the triangle, the silver you see behind the blur hose is the front face of the triangle & the back of the duct is angled to deflect the air entering up towards the top of the airbox. The tank base is sealed to the frame & the back of the airbox, thus creating a raised pressure area in the void within the headstock & under tank area. I've had this to a true 140mph & it was still pulling strong ! I'd love to do a top speed run, but all the local runs are cancelled for the moment Currently geared for 164mph at the red line (16/42) std (17/43) is geared for 171mph and 16/43 would be 161mph, all at the 11750rpm red line.

 

DIY Fuel Pressure Regulator Mod - Modifications - VFR Discussion

I sold my black bird FPR I bought in error to a local guy with a 6th gen. He popped it on and said the bike ran better, a little cooler, even went on to say the VTEC transition was smoother. Turbo city used to sell a modified 5th Gen FPR, now you have smash it via the link on VFRD. Only bad thing is you don't really know what your fuel pressure is unless you get a gauge on it.

 

i paid 120 for my ballistic evo 8
i have nothing but good things to say about it

 

From what I've read thsi does NOT improve the HP of the bike, it just makes it run richer everywhere, which may make it feel better in the low to mid range, but is neither scientific nor adjustable, get a secondhand PC3 & a custom dyno setup.

 

I do want to do a dyno run. I had a PC3 on my list but they way it runs now is very satisfying. I'm curious to see if it is overly rich in the higher power band. I could do a plug chop I suppose, I'm lazy. Butt dyno aside, it does try to pick up the wheel in first much easier than before.

 

As long as you are getting a raised pressure on the intake it will help. IF the engine it a bit starved for oxygen at high speed it could help quite a bit.

From what I can tell based on the articles and comments (busa), you are going to need something sticking out in unobstructed air at the very front to get the real pressure boost that will add 5+ hp. I'm guessing you'll add 1-3 hp, mostly at 100+ mph due to the recessed location.
However... if the VFR is starved for air at high speed, it could make a big difference. If the aerodynamics/design of the VFR are creating a low pressure area around the air box, it could make a difference at even lower speeds.

In order to do much better than where you have the intake at, you would almost need new plastic on the nose.

 

Yes, but at $9999 well worth it. It does need a couple of things to sort it out (shock, new fork springs, powercommander/fueling changes) but my '98 800 was big and heavy also. At least the 7th gen makes 160 RWHP once tuned. What is that, 50 more horses to the back wheel compared to the 800? I don't remember what they dyno at but I know it's 600-ish, so 100-110 HP.

 

the 6th gen weighs 540 lbs fully fueled ready to ride. two bros slip on 8 pounds with duals, 5 pounds with single. stock slip on 28 pounds. so with a single slip on curb weight is 517.
factory header vs aftermarket catless is worth atleast 10 pounds. now we are down to 507 pounds.
remove passenger pegs and handles, atleast another 10 pounds. now were at 497.
remove pair valves, evap canister, flapper and snorkel, and center stand, atleast another 10 pounds. now were at 487.
light weight battery is 7 pounds. so now we are at 480 fully fueled.
6 gallons of unleaded is 36 pounds. so empty tank is 444 pounds.
520 sprocket kit is 3 pounds and its rotational so it is has way more effect, but we can say 10. so now we can say 434 ponds.
i am 170 fully geared. so ready to race, me and the vfr are at about 610. though a gallon of gas doesnt seem important, it consistently adds a tenth to my 1/4 mile times.
i can run 10.9s all night and then add a gallon of gas, and i wont get into the tens again until i burn that gallon of gas off.

 

After this talk about batteries I looked around for other alternatives.
I found the "BALLISTIC PERFORMANCE LITHIUM" battery.
There wasn't a conversion chart of what battery to use but based on the specs I thought this was the closest:
Amazon.com: NEW BALLISTIC PERFORMANCE LITHIUM EVO2 12V 8 CELL MOTORCYCLE BATTERY,RED,275 AMPS: Automotive

It's $142.34

A comparison vs the Shorai:
Shorai Motorcycle Battery vs. Ballistic Motorcycle Battery Comparison - webBikeWorld

It sounds like the Shorai has a little more umph in turning over the 650 twin.
The next size up Ballistic is $167.33 vs $167.50 for the Shorai so cost difference doesn't matter much.
I think the Ballistic would have the advantage here. That's if the Ballistic battery fits though, I didn't check dimensions.

There is one very important difference between these brands. Shorai is lithium iron and Ballistic is Lithium Ion.
This page explains advantages and disadvantages of both if you can follow it.
Lithium iron phosphate battery - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

I looked up the dimensions of the 12 cell Ballistic battery and it should fit.
I suggest you verify dimensions and other specs yourself before you order one though.

 

I went with the Shorai.

 

If you really want speed, try a BMW K1300S. I assume you can tour on it with bags and whatnot. It's expensive, but the thing is a speed demon.

 

How any battery is gonna bump up horsepower in an internal combustion engines will be at best difficult to prove.

Now to the real thing and science in action:

Make electricity from Potato?

IMO a wise thing would be to carry a spare spud on long trips. Stopping off for the night one could, by reversing the polarity, cook his or her own Jo-jo's to taste.

 

It's not about changing engine HP, it's about dropping weight that steals HP.

 

I weighed the two back to back. It's just over 7 pounds weight saved.
That's worth about a tenth in the 1/4 mile.