my 1995 has problems

I get more kicks off my EX500 than people that spent oddles of money. LIght bikes with decent rwhp, (read: top speed of 120mph.)

I love my viffer with its seductive power and smooth suspension, but its not as much work to ride it fast, and leaves you feeling kinda un-fullfilled. :wink: fast riders on slow bikes rule...

Hi-yah Ice-Hunchin :smile:

 

Turn off the tap ?? Homey, dis iddint your 70s dirtbike, be gawd !! Bikes now you gotta lift the tank to find that wanker offtap.

 

I'm pretty sure I cAn get at mine just by taking the seat off. I have long skinny fingers.

 

If you have carbs on a bike and the carbs have float needles to stop fuel flow you always run the risk of fuel flowing into the cylinders and in paticular in this case with the carbs above the motor. Electric shutoff prevents this from happening, ignition on fuel flows, ignition off fuel doesn't flow

 

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the 4th gen have a fuel pump? If so, then the fuel shouldn't flow without the motor running?

 

Of course the 95 has a fuel pump but would you want to rely on the pump sealing the fuel flow from a tank above the carbs. Proof is pump doesn't always stop fuel flowing and you never realise this till you hydrolock a motor or you can't understand why it is hard to crank after sitting. Each to their own it's not my bike lol

 

Point taken. I guess I've been fortunate enough never to have given any thought to the carbs on the VFR (touch wood). Even after a fairly big crash she started and ran perfectly. The GS500 is another story, you could write a book on the fueling issues those things have!

 

It would have been nice if they had made the petcock easily accessible without dismantling stuff.

Damn Alky-hawl fuel doesn't help matters either since alot of rubbers that are compatible with gasoline are not with ethanol and vice versa. The Keihin and Mikuni manuals even says don't use alkyhawl in their carbs.

 

I hate ethanol gas. I try to buy 100% gas whenever I can. you get so much better gas mileage.

 

So today while I am patiently (cough, not really, cough) waiting for my R/R to come in, I decided I would check the resistance on the old one just to be sure it was part of the problem. I didn't have many doubts it would be. Here's what I got. setting my meter to kilohms, According to the diagram below, when touching positive to yellow one, two, and three and negative to red/white, it should read open. Instead, I was getting getting 129K's, give or take, on each one and open when touching negative to yellow one, two and three, and positive to red/white. I think my R/R is fried.

 

Does your meter have a diode function ( looks like an arrowhead with vertical line at point, ->|- ). If so use that to test the RR.

1. Positive test lead at green and negative at yellow: get 0.5 to 1.5 volts

2. Positive at green and neg. at red: get 1 to 3 volts

3. Positive at yellow and neg. at red: 0.5 to 1.5 volts

4. Pos. at red and neg. at yellow: open circuit or out of range reading

5. pos. at red and neg. at green: same as above.

The first three tests put a forward bias on the diodes and will give a reading if okay, the last two reverse bias the diodes which blocks current flow if okay.

http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/36298-rectifier-regulator-schematic-specifications.html

 

Well said, KB, and so blissfueriwklilly concise !



Make that blisfully, as my prairie dog ran across the keys.:crazy:

 

ain't them prairie dogs just little furry pigs? more fun than squirrels?

required on topic discussion:

some meters use the positive lead as the ground reference when doing resistance measurements, other meters use the negative lead, so that test chart really depends upon the type of meter, etc...

It's also good to have a 3 lb sledge hammer in your toolkit.

 

don't have a 3lb sledge, but I have 2lb ball peen hammer I use quite often

 

****Partial Update****

Well two days ago I finally had her all put back together (minus the fairings, of course), stator and R/R replaced. Tried to start it up AND...........LOCK! pull out number 3 spark plug, crank it again, it's full of fuel. Oil has a small fuel smell, but it could be just remnants from the first time I had fuel in the oil (I will be changing the oil again nonetheless). Put the spark plug back in crank it up. She's running. Rode it to get a bite to eat for lunch. Seemed like the problem cylinder was getting too much fuel as it was hesitating/missing/bogging down a little in the lower rpm's.

After lunch, got on it and rode for about 30 minutes letting the entire can of Seafoam in the gas hopefully do it's job. About 10 minutes into the ride, almost like magic, the hesitation in the low rpms vanished, and my butt dyno indicated that the power picked up a little as well. At stop signs she was also idling a lot smoother. Took it home after about another 10-15 minutes of back roads Alabama riding. I put all the fairings back on, wiped her down good, let her set for about 4 hours total. Got back on to crank it up and all my hopes were finally realized when she started right up perfectly! Rode around for another half hour to 45 minutes simply burning gas with the seafoam in it. She never missed a beat. Filled her up with 93 and took her home.

This morning after letting her set for a couple days to really make sure the carbs were good to go, I went out and cranked her up, and she started as quickly as if she was already warmed up! I couldn't take her out for a ride because it's literally water world around my parts right now, but I'm not expecting anything less than ready to go. I will give a final less lengthy update when I can get her out for a spin.

Note to self. Don't drop the bike in the barn ever again.

 

Three strikes dude! First you had carb problems, then electrical, now this is at least the third time that a cylinder has filled with gas from a problem in the carbs. At least you got the electrical sorted out. Too bad that you put the fairings back on because snakefoam or seaoil or whatever won't cure carb problems.

 

Or third time is the charm. The seafoam is a cleaning agent. I might have had junk in the carbs causing some problems. That's why I tried seafoam and a new fuel filter. but my carb troubles seem to be over. the last three times I've tried to crank it it started up perfectly whereas anytime before up until my problems started she wouldn't unless i ejected the fuel from a given cylinder.

 

They must have good rods in them because you obviously haven't bent one with a hydrolock. Has to be a reason for fuel getting in there, it is passing through the pump and also the needle isn't holding, Is it the same cylinder each time? If you aren't going to fix the problem then fit a fuel shutoff solonoid

 

The first time it locked while trying to start, it was the #4. The second and third time it locked while trying to start, it was the #3 cylinder. I'm thinking I had trash in the lines/carbs that settled from over the years and when I dropped it, it all got sifted around. Hopefully it's all cleared out now. It has started without a hangup the past three times I have tried, the last after setting a few days giving ample time for fuel to build up in the cylinder if the pump or needles were hanging open.

 

It's good to hear it's running again. It sounds like they didn't do a good job on the floats, when they cleaned your carbs.

If you've been putting off the valve check, this may be a good time to have it done. With all that possible hydrolocking, it might be a bit of preventive maintenance that will confirm that nothing is out of whack.