Pre- and Post- first lay down

Yeah, the main red to ign switch was 0v DC as well. What does this mean?

 

back by the battery will be a fuse, on your model I am unsure where it is really, just guessing. but measure for 12v dc on both sides of it. the fuse will be in the size of 20-30 amps

 

Odd.. I'll do that tonight when I get home... The fuse was new, but its possible hooking up my car battery charger blew it? But I would doubt that too...

THEN again, who am I to doubt? I'll update tonight around 6pm (It is 9am now).

Just so I have something to go off of, IF it so happens that the fuse is good, what might the next thing on the list to check?

 

I was thinking that the wire from the fuse, broke at the bottom of the the fuse holder from the fall

 

looking at that manual, it is a 30 amp fuse. the feed (12vdc) to that fuse comes from the starter relay B+ connection I believe

 

Backup a bit. I didn't do the B+ test right, apparently. I probably didn't push the pin through all the way - I found the wires expose themselves on the bottom of the ignition switch though, and tested it there. So I redid the test for B+. I have 12.74v there at main red.

Stator (page 15-5 in the manual)
- Pulled off the left cover, checked continuity between the three yellow wires, they all have continuity between each other. I believe that is how it should be, correct?

R/R (page 15-6 in the manual)
- I have continuity between the two red leads, and continuity between the two green leads. This is good, yes?
- The manual mentions (at top of 15-6) that there should be continuity between yellow and green or yellow and red...
- I assume these are checked between the yellow wires going into the R/R, and the leads coming out of the R/R, right?
- If so, I have no continuity, regardless of which combination... is that bad? (I hope not)
- Are there other ways to check my R/R? I have no idea when/how it got blown, if it did...

 

What about B+ on the other terminals of the ignition switch--did you check the switch with the key on and find the correct voltage on all the terminals as called out in the manual. You are going to have to be more thorough on following directions and reporting results... You are trying to find why you have no power so you will need to trace your battery power from the positive terminal to the starter relay/main 30A fuse, from there to the ignition switch, then through the switch with key on it goes to fuse block and the various loads. Also make sure you have a good ground connection from the battery negative terminal to the engine case/chassis ground point. None of this has anything to do with the RR--after you find the reason for having no power thru the switch then you can work on the stator and RR if they are defective.

 

yes, please recheck other ign switch the with key on, do all but red and yel/bl

 

do not worry about stator or rr yet

 

Sorry about jumping ahead/not doing things right... I am trying to learn as I go...

Dumb question: is it right to read only 0.15VDC measuring between neg-to-frame and battery-positive?

Also, I reread rjgti's post... I think rather than measuring the frame to the ignition switch red, I ended up measuring positive to ignition red... whops... (again, I am trying to learn here...)

I redid the test (again): black to frame, red to ignition switch red with ign ON... And I got 0VDC.
- 30A fuse is good.
- Red wire from ignition switch out to where it connects to the starter relay has continuity.

 

redo your test, something not adding up

 

b+ to frame should give b+ voltage. if not you have a ground issue

 

Trace the black cable from the battery negative terminal--where does it go to at the other end? Should be to a threaded stud on the bike frame. Is there any corrosion or looseness at the negative terminal lug or at the lug on the ground stud?

Is there continuity of the ground cable or might it be severed or cut?

Note that the connection point at the end of the negative cable is your reference ground point, aka chassis or "frame", from which to make voltage measurements. This is not necessarily the anodized aluminum portions of the bike frame since anodize is an electrical insulator and does not conduct.

 

HORRAYYY!!

Also, I am dumb.

The new starter relay looked exactly like the old one... but not till today (3 days later, since I never had daylight) did I find the "B" and "M" were reversed... <-- dummy.

Fixed that, turned the ign to ON again, no lights, but left it there for a minute and dash lights came on all of a sudden............. :| I decided to try to crank it... headlights came on... Weird... But now checked the ignition ON wires and all 6 had B+. The new battery (can't charge over 10.5V and does not hold a charge) and new starter relay (solenoid welded) were both necessary

Now I need to figure out why the engine doesn't turn... Refresher, after the drop, the radiator started dripping slowly. I ended up riding the bike another 25 yards to the street for parking. I'm not sure how the engine turned off while I was paying attention to parking. Either 1. after draining the battery & breaking the starter relay, I somehow let go of the clutch and the engine stalled (I don't think so), OR (more likely?) 2. it did turn off by itself, but I don't know why/how would it do that... from overheating?

Given what has transpired, suggestions on where to start? Thanks!

 

kennybobby, you got me - I was checking it against the anodized frame, hence, failing in making proper measurements. I did end up measuring from the screw head for the ground. Thanks! And no, it is not loose or cut or rusted.

 

No, you should be getting around 12V frame to battery positive. I know the frame is coated but you can find bolts and other spots to test besides the main ground. At the least you should have 12V between the frame ground point and the positive battery terminal. Black test lead on the frame, red lead on the battery (+). If you don't have that there's a problem with the wiring or ground at the frame, pull the wire off, clean it up, check for continuity in the negative cable at both ends (ohm test - resistance), reattach it and repeat the test. Don't worry about the ignition switch until you read 12V between bat (+) and the frame.

Just a guess but it sounds like you may have a short on the (+) side to ground somewhere.

 

if he had a short to ground on his b+ side his battery would most likely be heating badly, due to it coming on dash lights shortly after fixing B+ and M terminal on starter relay I would think it is a ground fault. do ohm test or voltage test on B- to ground. ohm should be very close to 0 or at least 10 meg ohms, voltage test should show less then .5 volts lose from B- to ground

 

dirty contacts in the ignition and/or handlebar switches

Those are symptoms of an intermittent contact. Clean and verify continuity of all the switches--clutch, start button, engine kill, ignition.

The headlights get power from the ignition switch routed thru fuse number 7 routed thru the normally-closed contacts of the start push button switch. The start button sheds the headlight load when it is pushed so that all the battery energy can go into the starter.

The starter solenoid gets it's power from the ignition switch routed thru fuse number 3 routed thru the normally-open contacts of the start push button. The spark unit gets its power from the same fuse routed thru the run contacts of the kill switch.

So verify all the switches are clean and working and you will likely solve your problem or find the root cause of all this evil.

 

that sums it up nicely kennybobby

 

- ohm between battery-negative and the frame is very close to 0KΩ and jumps to more than 10MΩ at times. This is the correct behavior, yes?
- voltage between those two points are also less than 0.5VDC.
- battery did not seem to heat up by leaving the ignition ON (so lights are on)