Fairing Bosses have me beat

I'm trying to remove my tail fairing, so i can plastic weld some cracks and fix everything up but I cannot seem to be able to get the tail fairing off. I have all the bolts out and when I pull I feel there is a tab near the tank but I can't see it. Do I have to remove the tank to get to it? If so where do I start, or is this what i think i've read as a Fairing Boss, and if thats the case how do i pop it out, I dont want to break anything if i can help it.

 

usually there is a grommit in the frame with a "tit" on your side panel that gets inserted into it, try to gently pull out-ward near where the front of your side panels are. You are doing them seperately right?

 

Go to one of the online parts sales outfits, look in the Honda section for that assembly. The tail light modules will have to be removed too. When you find the bosses squirt some water on the grommet to free it up.

 

another nice lubricant for them "tits" or those funky turn signal assemblies that get screwed into the tail section, is furniture polish, spray and insert. :evil: Can also do the Pledge wax-on/wax-off job on your petrol tank if its lonely.

Have used actual "lube" (insert your favorite brand) on insulator boots as it does not react with the rubber. One sick puppy I am ....CheersssSSS

 

If this leads to a "What's your favorite lube thread?", I am so out of here!

 

There are two bits of sheetmetal below the sides of your tank with rubber grommets in them. There are pins molded into the tail fairings, near the front. These pins are pretty much in the center of the triangular section of the fronts of the tail fairings.

Pull gently, but firmly, straight out from the bike and they should pop out.

You DO NOT need to remove the taillight or the blinkers to remove the tail section - just disconnect the electrical connections (3) to them under the pillion seat.

 

Might be a little tough fixing that busted ABS tail section with the tail light modules in place.

Now since we are fixing shit using rattlecan or liquid furniture polish any where on rubber bits on bikes, don't! Those polishes have silicone fractions that will contaminate the substrate and cause "fisheye" in any attempt to repaint the parts.

Yep, there are products that sort of work to fix this condition. Emphasis on "sort of". It's called, "Smoothy".. After spending a bunch of pesos for the paint, the reducer, the primer, the filler, the sandpaper, the rubbing compound, and maybe even some pro to paint a chunk at even more pesos grandes , is the poop polish? Yep!

If ya bust off one of those bosses that is torqued down too tight, a chunk of a plastic coathanger will suffice in your very own choice of color..Only your R/R will know..

 

Now since we are fixing shit using rattlecan or liquid furniture polish any where on rubber bits on bikes, don't! Those polishes have silicone fractions that will contaminate the substrate and cause "fisheye" in any attempt to repaint the parts.

Could not get the quote thing to wrap it! I hate fish eyes in my soup too. Kidding aside, I always unscrewed the light bulb from the blinker assembly, I would split the tail section, ie, each side comes off after you take off: 1 Frankenstein bolt, a shiny allen head bolt, a small philllips head under the bat wing below the blinker assembly near the licence plate, and of course that 12mm bolt that holds your grab rail on, along with another phillips under your seat near that funky grab rail. After all the "fixings" are removed, you may or may not have already gently pulled that "tit" thing from its rubber home, the entire side should come off in your hands. Center cowl remains on the bike, kinda just sits there because its held with those two philips screws from each side of the rear panels and a kind of tounge and groove thing on either side. Hope this wasnt too involved... ; )

btw - the Pledge thing works great on our rear duck bill fender thing, results may vary depending on how roached out the plastic was before you began preserving it, or worse yet, if you cut it off completely...gawd forgive them...

 

Even a small amount of "Pledge" or similar polish with silicone will contaminate a whole spray booth, any type spraygun ect. The black bits like rear fenders, stock chainguards ect can be painted. A good cleaning, some mild scuffing and a couple of coats of Krylon Fusion as a primecoat and a topcoat of almost any paint or coating that will stand up to weathering. I used Hammerite on mine. Meguirs has a plastic restorer that works reasonably well but requires re-application periodically.

The OP as I understand it wished to remove that cowling to make repairs. Removal of same may not be the one size fits all solutions given.

Kind of like those HD condoms with the fringes that have "LARGE" stamped on them.. We use those for transporting fisheye soup to and from outings.