85 vf700f wont run

Guys, I need help. I'm a pretty fair garage mechanic, so let me describe my issues and let's see if someone out there can help.
My bike is an 85 vf700f I bought with 3k on the clock. I has always run with a bit of hesiation, but it has run well. It now has 14k on it and is down. When not ridden, i keep fuel stabilizr in it and regardless of fuel stabilizer, the bike gets gunkedup.
So here we go. I recently rode from El Paso to Anaheim and the bike died in the middle of the desert. Nice guy on a harley towed me to an Autozone in Demig NM where I purchased a Mr. Gasket low pressure fuel pump after seeing no output to that incredibly cumbersom honda pump. Put it in and made it to California. After riding to work work the following week, noticed a small pool of gas under the right side exhaust pipe. 4 new needle valves and new petcock later, I started it up. Ran ok, ( or so it seemed) then died on I5 while I was on my way to work the next day. Could start it again, but would run for just a minute or two, then die. Got it back to whre I am staying and pulled the carbs. Pilot jets, needle jets were gunked, but I cleaned them. Leveled the floats. Was hugely surprised to see the number 4 cylinder full of gas as I peeked in throught the intake. All four have more varnish in the intake passages (motor) than I'd like, but seem ok. Swabbed it dry and continued on installing the carbs. Replaced the oil, filter and tried again. Now the bike wont run and when it does, it runs very poorly. Read alot about removing the fuel pump, tried bypassing it to no avail. Plugs look ok, new battery (reads 14.5 at idle) - so probably not electrical. I have removed the white collection box that is used for the carb vent, the crankcase vent to make room for another fuel pump (to test - a 84 honda accord pump) and the same results. Not sure the box is necessary, but maybe it is. Nonetheless, now my starter is toast. Rebuilt it, but the windings were compromised. New one on the way.
So after all this, and after I bump the bike, idles ok, but no steady. When I gas it, it seems to do ok but then does not want to come down quickly. The kicker is when I ride it. It just wont rev when stressed. I have not gotten to the point of syncing the carbs because the problem appears to be way worse than just a sync.
Yes the gas tank is rusted insided (normal for its age - and I run filters), but the flow coming out is clear and strong. I have a beautiful example of the 700 but I'm ready to toss it in the trash...I brought this bike up from El Paso, as my primary bike, my GL1200 has lost compression in #1 cyclinder. I am staying at an extended stay hotel in Anaheim (and have been for 2 years - and probably will until my employment contract is up); so my access to my garage is the most frustrating thing on earth right now. I have bought a ton of tools, parts to no avail. I ride and only ride which is why I brought the 700 up from home.
I am looking at cleaning the carbs again, but fear unless I clean individually, I may not find the cause. Anyone who has cracked the connector tubes on these damn things knows why we leave them connected. Can't break the tube; especially while living in a hotel.
So, am I missing somethig here. Please give me some advice; will tear into it again tomorrow with a makeshift aux tank and try to run it with the carbs exposed. I really need some advice as these bikes are my only transportation and they are both down. The goldie I can deal with because I have years of experience with these and a good running motor to swap is much less expensive than splitting the vertical cases of the horizontal 4. But the v4. I don't have much time on the bench with these bikes. Evenso, a motor is a motor. I am missing something. Need help. I have never experienced this in my 30 years of riding, so I must be missing something. Thanks Karl

 

Here is a great post on how to clean those carbs--compare this to how you did it to see if yours are clean.

http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/22449-cleaning-carbs.html

 

fuel filler cap vent blocked ?? carb float bowl vents not breathing freely ?? all your fiddling with the carbs might have messed up the synch. you sure the floats are adjusted to the factory-specified height ? Note that it's alot easier to screwup the slide diaphram mounting than to get it correct, and that just might be part of your problems. If you can get it running, remove the airfilter so you can see the slides and check that they all react by lifting equally in response to throttle opening.

With any evidence of rust in the tank, the tank needs to be coated or carb problems will be recurrent.

 

Thanks
Fuel filter cap vents too well; gas speeps out the keyhole. carb float bowl vents? Have to look at these. The synch isn't the issue, butterflies are evenly set and haven't been adjusted from a week ago when the bike was running til it became a problem. I just adjusted the floats to 7mm when I cleaned the carbs. New needle valves as well. Cleaned the jets. Slide diaphram mounting is correct and aligned. Will set up a reserve tank to see them operate. One was stuck and one was sticking when I cleaned the carbs last. That might just be the issue. They still may be getting hung up. Needles looked good and felt smooth. Rust isn't as bad as I wrote initially. I have always gotten clean flow past the filter. Varnish on the otherhand..... Thanks for the response, I do appreciate it.

 

Thanks. That is what I have done in the past and currently to this bike and my 81 and 84 Goldwing - to include soaking in Berrymans. Thanks for the help. And yes, don't do what I did initially and pull the carb manifold from the bodies to take the bodies out...CRACK goes the fuel tubes. Thanks again.
Karl

 

Hold on, cowboy !!

It's practically NEVER necessary to remove the airbox base from the set of carbs, and it should NOT be done to ease carb removal or installation. Carbs can be cleaned just fine wihout removing the airbox base or separating the set of 4.

 

Have you done a spark test? Your Fuel cut relay could be the culprit. Mine went out last week and it stalled, got it home on the choke and what was in the lines, but only on two cylinders.

Ignition problems can mimic fuel starvation and the fuel cut relay cuts the pump and spark from one coil. check out the wiring diagram and you'll see what I am talking about.

It's worth checking your entire ignition system. Plugs, wires,coils, CDI boxes, Pulse generators. These Carbs are a pain in the "you know what" to remove, especially twice. (shudder)

The service manual link in the first gen forum will give you the resistance values for all of the above. Good luck!
-Sean

 

I doubt the relay does anything but power up (or not) the pump only, won't cut spark, but i ain't no EE.