My 6th gen projector HID install

Second thread on on this site, thought I'd make it a good one :biggrin:

I tackled an HID projector install. Here is my process from start to finish:

Remove the headlights. I actually looked on you tube and this forum to figure this out. There are 4 push tabs 2 nuts, and 6? screws if I remember right. I removed all of the fairings as I was doing a full fluid flush and oil change. This made the removal of the front clip much easier.
Front:


Side: (yes dusty I know)


Bulb mount: On the high beams there is a retaining spring that hates faces, you've been warned!



From here I sent my photo's and dimensions into the company I used. The retrofit source. These guys were a big help with their kits. They recommended the morimotoH1 DS25 kit. The kit came with mounting hardware, wiring harness, bulbs of your choice, ballasts, projectors, and shrouds of your choice. My shroud I chose was the G37, (IMHO they are to big for this application.) Total price was under $300 and that's with shipping included.

Projector and mount: (These mounts fit right into your H4/9003 slot) I took out the positioning ring, because the factory mount isn't straight. But with the retaining rings you can adjust and be happy. Just run and use a spot of gorilla glue or RTV to keep them from rotating.


Shrouds: shroud on left is unmodified. I had to trim and fit over and over and over until I was able to get what I wanted. The final product was actually shorter than that. (on right) This was due to the lens hitting the edge of the shroud.


Lenses, At this point I was ready to head and pull apart my lenses. All I needed was a fairly small to medium flat screw driver, and something long and flt to help me separate. Heat the over the 265 and cook your lights for 5 min. That's all you need IMPORTANT! Remove all rubber grommets and bulbs before doing this. And set some wood down on your oven rack, the metal rack will scorch your headlights. After 5 min, used a mechanics glove and oven mitt to remove the assembly. I held the assembly in my gloved hand without a problem. Using the small screwdriver wiggle your way into the seam around the lens and the housing. You can push the plastic tabs away with your thumb, careful not to break them, they should be fairly pliable. Once you get the screw driver in work your way slowly around the headlight, you will see it start to separate. Take your time and don't rush, if the adhesive is no longer pliable you can just reheat for a few minutes. Take care not to touch the inside of the lens and not to get any of the adhesive on the reflectors or lens, it will never come off. This stuff looks like 10 year old chewing gum under a school desk. with care you can separate the two half's by pulling them straight back. Front end over back end.

Tools used: Notice all flat and nothing to cut with!


Separated lights:


Now it's time to start projector installation!
The kit slides right into the slot, and wiggles around all over the place until secure. It's fun, trying to do this and not touch the projector glass! The 4 mounting screws in the projector will bottom out in the reflector. No wiggle, but until they are secure, it's like ice skating with 1 leg. The previous picture shows the order of mounting. Projector->Big rubber washer->housing->retaining ring->rubber washer-> fastening ring->HID->fastening ring->rubber washer->locking ring.

It only really goes in one way. When you tighten the first washer down, it will all stay centered and in place. Much easier than all that convoluted non-sense I wrote up there.

Assembly: This kit is bixenon! The wire coming out the back is for the actuator in the projector. Just comes right out the back, be sure to pull it through and not leave it in there!


From here You attempt to cut and modify the shroud to fit the reflector and assembly. THIS ASSEMBLY IS NOT A CIRCLE! It looks like it in the lens, but it is not. So the shroud looks a bit funky in there but it's fine with the lens on, that's all covered up.

Fitted shroud:


DON'T PUT YOUR LENS BACK ON!!!!!!

Do a fitment and alignment test! This is fairly easy. Get your front fairing and assemble the headlights back into the front. MODIFIED AND UNMODIFIED! At this time I fitted my ballasts as well. It makes for less headache when everything comes off as a whole.

My ballast figment: If you choose to go here, remember to leave room for the small pieces of fairing. There is a clip they have to snap into.


Headlight in fairing:


From here you need a 12V source (your battery works) and some wires to hook up the assembly.

Old and new: I used the old headlight to find my center line for the assembly. This aids in alignment in the future. Just power them both up and lower/twist as needed. (yellow is the older headlight). There are 3 adjustment screws, Silver is whole assembly up and down, Black no Phillips is tilt, and black Phillips and left horizontal.


From here to can assemble your other headlight, secure it into the fairing and lighter up. The cut-off doesn't have to over lap! But bring them close as possible. Rule of thumb is to keep them at the same distance @ 25' as the space between the two headlights. So you don't cheat yourself on maximum width.

Now re assemble your lens! You will know how much you need to cut off your shroud now! I had to trim the center to fit all the way around the headlight, fit test, then glue in place. To re-assemble you will need to heat both pieces HEADLIGHT OUT! Stick them together again, carefully!, and clamp (which is tricky)!

Clamp and cool: Don't mind the fluff in the corner.


Finished product:


Re-assemble your front end and move to your bike. Time for Wiring!

Wire harness, this was fairly easy. There are two relays, one for each ballast. They are controlled but a H4 connector. This plugs right into your existing harness. you only need one. So cut or tape up the other one. There is a long wire for power that goes right back to your battery. I just ran mine along the frame and secured it with wire tie-straps. Fairing will conceal the wire. IMPORTANT! Install the harness relays UP! This will prevent water from setting in the bottom of the connectors and shorting out your system.

Relays: I attached mine to the brace for the gauges. You can see my connector in the top left for the headlight control. The LED's let you know that the relays are working. If I have a headlight go out I can just look down and tell if my relays are the problem or not.


Wiring: I tapped into the high beam circuit for control to the Bi-Xenon actuators. The kit comes with the male connector not the female! i just went to auto zone and picked some 9006 female headlight connectors up; about $11. Solder, heat shrink, and tape this splice up if you go my route.


Put it back together and test it all out! Leave the corner pieces off so you can get to your adjustment screws if necessary. These are the two small fairing pieces that go in between your gauges and outside edge. The same ones I told you to leave room for earlier.

Low beams: (dusty I know, I cleaned it up before putting it back together)


High beams: Put on my sun screen


Off:


Off Profile:


I don't have any images of them tuned up and putting the sun to shame. It's been too F'n cold. Once is stops raining and I get some time I'll try to get out and show them off.

Thanks for reading!

 

Now that I called a true HID :thumb:
Thanks for sharing

 

If/when I do the HID route, this is the way I want to go. Great write up, thanks for sharing.

 

awesome write up! thank you!

 

Those shrouds give the front of the bike a completely different "personality". Well done!

 

Thank man, I'm a big advocate of HID's the way they are meant to be. To many trucks driving around here dishing out catarax at random.

This kit made things SUPER easy. I would shy away form the G37, and ask them for a smaller one. That oblong reflector just messes things up.

Hopefully I've inspired anybody who might of been on the fence because of it's complexity.

I agree, more aggressive, and bring the nose out. I thought the massive lowbeam reflector made the front end look like an owl, so I wanted to change that.

 

Here is my version - job still in progress...

 

reminds me of the sentinels from The Matrix