Winter Project

Toss a little dish detergent in your sanding water when wet sanding. Try using an indicator coat too.

The stuff in a tube they call glazing (for some reason) is thick lacquer primer. Great for those damn low spots and little divots that show up just when ya think you're all done..

A kit pack of those plastic squeegees works or a couple of plastic putty knives from the big box stores make good applicators. Best IMO and a little hard to find is the squeegee material used in silkscreen printing. Try a signwriters supply or one of the Tshirt shops may just give you a chunk. Most of it is kind of soft
and carvable with a sharp knife. (carvable ?? Not a clue.)


Info on that adhesive for Lexan? Superglue maybe?

 

No it's thinner than that and when it dries on the outside you can rub it off like a hard power. The bottle says R6K. Your guess???

 

*Finished*

Well I went to the body shop the other day to ask my friend what type of primer to use for the black or dark gray. He just finished a job and gave me half a qt of "Hot Rod Black" and activator. If you don't know it's a urethane paint that looks primer black. From several resources so far I figure I may not be able to match paint and will have to paint the bike. If that's the case then it will get painted at a later date.

So seeing it was going to be in the sixties this morning I figured it was time for paint. Made a little setup to put the parts on and started shooting at 10:30. By 11:00 I was done painting. So I had a few other things to do to get the bike roadable. I decided I wasn't going to wet sand it at this time. About two hours later I started putting it all together. Here is the finished product as for now.



You can't see it in the pic, there is a Lexan lip that sticks out about 1 1/2" as a stone guard. If you look hard you can see it in the second pic. My temp radiator grill (aluminum gutter screen for down spout)
I'm short a Dzus fastener, using it for oil door. Anybody got an extra 14mm laying around you want to sell?



So what else could I do but ride it. Everything works including the odometer/speedo. I dressed like I normally do for cold weather riding. The temp was dropping and it was about 45 when I got home. Setting behind that fairing there is no wind blast, cold air or anything. Nice and warm. I'm not getting wind up my legs or arms or really on my hands. I stayed warm with the added engine heat just waffling around. I put the doors on the side to stop air flow. That tall wind screen throws the wind over top of me. Just touching the tops of my shoulders and from the bottom of my helmet up. I didn't need to dress as warm as I normally do. I like that.

This is just what I wanted, a nice little cocoon protection. Got on the highway and the wind was blowing some, didn't bother the bike at all. It felt very stable up to the ton mark. That's when the left mirror came loose and turned back. Which the mirrors are going to need work. They bounce to much. Not a jitter so you can't see anything. More like on a boat in three footers, everything is visable but moving all over.

Well I've got more money than I thought I would in it. But put more than I started out to do. Over all this is a winner for me. It just made my Interceptor a NICE long distance sport tourer. Which is the type of bike I've wanted for years and never got around to one. Cause once you have an Interceptor setup right it's very hard to let it go. Even if it's a Gen1. So I just may have to find time and $$$ to ride out to SF CA to see my daughter. I've got the bike to do it with now.

Hope you all enjoyed the ramblings of an old man.

 

Good for you George! She's one of a kind. I'm very impressed with all the work you did out of your comfort zone. You're sure to get a lot of questions from bystanders.

 

Kudos indeed! You've not only accomplished your goal, but also completed a functional and good looking project too- something that doesn't always happen.

Curious about any negative effects from the extra front weight? Heavier fork oil or stiffer fork springs needed?

 

My guess is methylene chloride. Just a guess. One test is to see if what you have will work on joining two hunks of ABS. Several entries on Google that are close but so far no cigar.. A question about your "Lexan". Is the shield Lexan? Lexan has a sort of blue caste to it and is some very tough stuff.

 

That two component paint will do just fine until you get around to the final paintwork.. Nice job..

Back in the day before we were organic, gluten free and PC, black primer was called Mexican Candy Apple.. I guess the term today would be Latino Candy Apple..

 

Beautiful bike and you are far braver than I would be on mods.
On the topic of lighting, why not run 55w headlight bulbs? If you want more light then use something like Philips extremes - 80-100% more light at the same wattage as standard. Might save some charging system pain down the track.
I get my globes from these guys - my vf1000r will have 2 of the +100 bulbs in it when it goes back on the road. Philips extreme or osram night breaker are about the same (one says +100%, one says +90% but according to the reviews they are fairly similar).
Car Bulbs | PowerBulbs

 

Thanks for the words. I knew this was a winter project when I started. I figured it would take some time to do. Like any new project of McGyvering takes time to do it right. Though true to form I underestimated the total work involved seeing I've never done a project like this one before. Then again that's the fun of it when you get to points of "what the hell am I going to do now?" stages of any project. Makes me think a little.

Funny you should ask. I almost lost it pulling out of the driveway going left. I was expecting a weight shift like I did. Not really sure how much more weight is up front. The horns a few pounds for sure, The head light is about the same as the sq one cause it's plastic. Bike felt fine yesterday. I didn't notice anything strange though I was really concentrating on it. More miles for sure to see if I need to do something. I run 10w now.

thx1138 that's a good idea. I haven't had any experience with some of the new lighting that's out. I don't really trust all the reviews from people that bought them when I don't know them. What's bright to you may not be bright to me. I learned some about lighting when we were endurance racing. We probably had the best lights for night out of anybody back then. So I wasn't sure if the 55w would actually put out the light I wanted. So I went with more power cause I know they work. That is well worth looking into so I don't over tax the RR. If you have anymore links or what type to look at, shoot me a message. Thanks


I still have to do a night time run to see where the lights are. I hope they work like I think they will.

I'm off to hit the shower then I have some running around to do. On the bike of course.

 

I ran high power globes in my boldor and had battery probs from it (130w / 70w) as the boldor a (81 cb750fb) had marginal charging systems. When I swapped to the early standard wattage high light output globes (osram plus 50) the problems stopped.
The osram plus 60 silver something version 2 is close to top of range light but much cheaper and is supposed to last a fair bit longer. Edit here is link;
http://www.powerbulbs.com/au/product/osram-silverstar-silver-star-h4-two-bulbs

 

Grey- the weight issue popped to mind because I remember back in circa 1989 being at a local track and a fellow budget racer had a sweet RZ-350 KRR that he had modified a GSXR full fairing on to his RZ. Well come to find out he had used fiberglass to make the mids & lower 1 piece. Long story short, I had to lift up the one piece lower one afternoon and could believe how much weight he had added to his fairing setup.

Anyway, if you're all good, extra kudos!