Voltage Regulator Repeat Failure VFR800 1998

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by vfr800_power, Feb 22, 2013.

  1. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    mello dude i hope that settles it. i dont even remember what were talking about anymore... lol
     


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  2. vfr800_power

    vfr800_power New Member

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    If it plugs like this

    RR.jpg

    Thats what I had posted the first time

    VFR_charging_diagram_moded.jpg

    Anyways, so I will go ahead and solder the positives together, put an inline high amp 30A fuse and connect it directly to the battery. But looking at the wiring diagram I see that the R/R plugs through the 30A to the battery but then before hitting the 30A fuse it breaks off and a wire goes straight to the fuse box to power the ignition + fuel pump + PGM-FI through a 20A fuse and the headlights through a different 20A fuse. Any comments / warnings here?
     


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  3. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    i thought you wanted to know my set up. i told you the way it plugs and plays and then the way i did it.
     


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  4. Maggot

    Maggot New Member

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    I'm no electrical engineer, so I could be wrong, but I don't like the twin circuits between the VFRness and the battery. The diagram shows 2 30 amp fuses one in the VFRness and one in the original harnass in parallel between the VFRness and the battery. This could potentially allow up to 60 amps to pass. If this diagram is correct I would leave the fuse out of the original circuit and have the power pass through the VFRness.

    My guess is the diagram is not quite correct because the VFRness people seem to know what they are doing.

    Just my 2.
     


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  5. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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  6. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    How 'bout - Watch you ass! A effe up here will bring the 4th of July!

    -I'm from the keep it simple thought of engineering school, so consider that.
    :cool:
     


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  7. vfr800_power

    vfr800_power New Member

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    Yeah plus you have the OEM wiring harness connect straight to the battery unfused, that's part of the reasons why this set-up confused me...
     


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  8. vfr800_power

    vfr800_power New Member

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  9. vfr800_power

    vfr800_power New Member

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    I will definitely keep it simple, stator wires directly soldered to the R/R and the R/R directly connected, with a 30A inline fuse of course, to the battery. My only concern here is that one wire that breaks off before the 30A fuse at the battery and goes into the fuse box as shown below, any tips here?

    NOTE: I edited the image to show where that line that breaks off from the positive leads to and connects!

    View attachment 21841
     


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  10. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Attachment no workie. Anyhoo, more pics of what I have. Consider this as instuctions to do a direct to battery installation.

    First I have the black connector OEM connector that the R/R plugs into sealed up.
    This one
    [​IMG]

    Sealed up, used a liquid tape gooey stuff(kinda fun) and 1" heat schrink tube. You could just tape it, but I like it.
    [​IMG]

    I took the mating plug and gooped it up with liquid tape. Then plugged it together.
    [​IMG]

    I'm a clutz with solder, so I used a MetriPack connector for the stator to R/R connection. You need a high quality
    crimp tool to do this. -- (I held my nose and splurged for the $100 fricken tool.)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here's my R/R setup with the fuse holder and connectors to the battery. Notice the 10ga cable on the R/R leads and the 8ga on the fuse box. I'm not messing around. Overkill is best.
    [​IMG]

    Positive lead tip for 5th gen.
    Snip, snip.
    [​IMG]

    Installed
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Installed and pretty. Neat, neat and more neat.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG][/URL]

    Good enuff? You need to use a high amp fuse block 30-40 amp for the pos lead.

    Get your parts in, take photos, and we'll walk you thru it.

    :cool:
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2013


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  11. Maggot

    Maggot New Member

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    Great job Dude!
     


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  12. vfr800_power

    vfr800_power New Member

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    Sorry for the broken link, here it is again:

    VFR_wiring.jpg

    BTW thanks for the pix, they are great. I am getting on this now, will post pix tonight if possible!
     


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  13. heaslc

    heaslc New Member

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    Hey guys saw you were talking about R/r's I'm new to the VFR Forums.
    I posted a thread just the other day to show what happened to my R/R on my gen 4.
    Basically it blew up. Links is here
     


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  14. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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  15. heaslc

    heaslc New Member

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    Hi mello dude,
    Thanks for the response. Since I've used the wire harness plug in replacement sold by wiremybike.com would it not be easier to just buy one of his r/r's? I have heard about these mosfet ones being superior but I don't want to have to rewire my bike again if it can be avoided.

    Edit: I see they offer just the R/R with the connectors so the harness that I bought will work fine. Just have to change out the connectors for the stator wires and the pos/neg connections to the battery. Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2013


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  16. vfr800_power

    vfr800_power New Member

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    Hey guys, completely forgot to post the pics, I was to busy enjoying a functioning bike!!! Here they are finally!

    Note that all the wires have been directly soldered together, the connections were cut out. The electrical tape you see is just overkill, the wires were soldered then wrapped in heat shrink and finally wrapped in electrical tape (and wire protector where necessary).

    20130415_163807.jpg
    20130415_163819.jpg
    20130415_163903.jpg
     


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  17. vfr800_power

    vfr800_power New Member

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    Furthermore, I installed a voltmeter so that I can keep a close eye on the charging voltage!

    Note: the R/R that I purchased from wiremybike.com is amazing, it outputs a rock solid 14.8V ALL THE TIME, lights dont flicker anymore at all!!

    20130417_221512.jpg
    20130425_203244.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013


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  18. vfr800_power

    vfr800_power New Member

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    For future reference, if anyone is looking at this thread to find a solution to their problem and have concluded that they had the same symptoms as I did, the conclusion of my experience is that the issue was caused by a the the weak connectors from the voltage regulator (R/R) to the stator and to the bike's main harness (theory supported by my melted connectors as seen above) which most likely lead to high local resistances during normal bike operation which then lead to repeated failures of all voltage regulators (R/R).

    From my experience, a solution that will definitely solve your issue if you have the same problem as I had is to get an upgraded R/R (as sold by Wire My Bike or as the one mello dude has posted) above and then cut out the connections on both your bike's harness and the new R/R you will receive and carefully solder the right wires together (see wiring diagram posted above). Then make sure you heat shrink wrap everything and cover the wires with wire protector. Also you want to connect the positive sides (2 red wires) of your new R/R directly to the positive terminal of the battery WITH an inline 30A fuse and connect the negative sides (2 green wires) of your new R/R directly to the negative terminal of you battery. Finally you might want to consider installing a voltmeter on your bike, as I did, so that you can keep an eye on that charging voltage for peace of mind as you ride.

    Finally I want to thank everyone that took the time to post useful comments to help me out, they were all very appreciated. And a big thanks to mello dude, from the knowledge you have on this bike, I would believe you if you told us you designed the bike :p

    Cheers
     


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  19. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    ^^^ Thxz dude..... I design, develop, analyze, test and write technical shit for a living, ---your comments kinda goes with that.

    -- Um, not saying anything is a problem, but 14.8 volts continuous is a bit of an anomoly, kinda odd. Curiousity killed the cat. ????
     


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  20. vfr800_power

    vfr800_power New Member

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    Yeah I think so too, but there are no specs to what it should be at idle, it just says 14.0-14.8V @ 5000 RPM and I definitely have that! At idle I am maybe at 14.7V.... What do you think I should do to make sure everything is in order at idle?
     


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