my vfr800

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by wildstang, Mar 8, 2013.

  1. wildstang

    wildstang New Member

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    lil over due but heres a pic of the ol 98 viffer
     

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  2. Scubalong

    Scubalong Official Greeter?

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    Nice........about time :thumb:
    Man she is soooooooo shiny
    She glow :wink:
     


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  3. white_335i

    white_335i New Member

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    Nice, classy. Thanks for sharing with us!!
     


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  4. 2007VFR

    2007VFR New Member

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    I see 98's with silver wheels every once in a while....I assume they were painted/powder coated?
     


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  5. white_335i

    white_335i New Member

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    What was the stock wheel color? I thought it was silver..
     


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  6. Scubalong

    Scubalong Official Greeter?

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    I have seen mostly Black rims
     


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  7. marriedman

    marriedman New Member

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    I'm calling BS! You clipped that picture from a magazine or some official Honda brochure, it's just too beautiful!

    Seriously though, great picture. I love the exhaust and the silver rims. I was bidding on that exact exhaust on ebay just recently. I hope you weren't the guy who beat me! The OEM rims were black but I swear the silver were so much better looking. The laminar lip touring shield will come in handy on those long hauls, but for around town or short excursians I would think about a Zero Gravity Double Bubble.
     


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  8. duccmann

    duccmann Member

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    Boy she sure is purty......sound clip with that pipe?
     


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  9. wildstang

    wildstang New Member

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    i do have a double bubble also part of the bike purchase but do to my height this one keeps the wind out of my face much better. it came with it on it and the rims, but yes they appear powder coated to me. previous owner kept immaculate care of it.
     


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  10. wildstang

    wildstang New Member

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    well in a previous post i had kicked around the thought of installing another IAC sensor away from the engine to trick the computer into thinking the motor was still cool while it really wasn't in hopes of an power increase in the means of the ignition reverting back to its warm up mode both increasing timing ignition and inrichening the fuel also. i do have to say it worked. i really wished i could dyno prove it but the time to put it on the dyno isnt here yet. i have to finish porting and flowbenching the heads i took off a spare motor i purchased off of ebay, and installing them this winter. i also did make a few mods also along the way in the form of dropping 1 tooth on the front and adding 1 in the rear and wrapping the headers and insulating the airbox and under tank with heat shield stick on material. i also will be thermo coating specific areas of the motor before assembly in wich is a proven power adder i learned over the years racing my mustang and camaro.
    the cams i removed from the spare motor and checked them to see if withen specs and shipped off to my machine shop for regrind mods. getting the spare motor off ebay has allowed me to make mods and ride while i tinker away at the spare motor freshening it up.
    anyways i wired in another IAC back by the computer so it can be away from engine heat and also still function taking its readings off the ECU's location for heat readings rather then the airbox.
    i also unplugged the power commander 5 just to see if it would make a difference in stock mode and took it for a cruise along side my brothers kawasaki 1000 he cruises and had 3 races 2 with stock location IAC plugged in and last with relocated position back by ECU plugged in. trying to shift at same rpm to see if there were any noticable differences, and to see if it would be compatible with just stock configuration without the PC5 and auto tune plugged in. just wanted to see if it ran too rich or pinged any in stock form.
    the difference was with stock airbox location plugged in it ran fine and gave the sensation of pulling the front tire up but didnt really lift it off the ground with power shifting@11000rpm, but with the relocated IAC shifting same rpm it did manage to get about 2 to 3 inches tire raise in an ever so slight wheelie shuddering the front tire and handle bars after she came out of the ever so slight wheelie wich the steering was not affected under stock locations runs.
    part throttle and chugging it around town didn't seem to be much different then the stock location IAC i had the usual low rpm stumble at certain rpm's but just not as noticable.
    all in all it did not make it run overly rich and is a mod compatible with stock bike settings. after rehooking the PC5 and retaking it for a cruise it didnt seem to make much noticable difference other then the auto tune and PC5 cleared up the low rpm stumble.
    didn't get to run it against the brothers kawi with PC5 hooked up tonight and relocated IAC to see if there was an improvement there too.
    got too hungry and it was getting cold and dark.
    but my primary goal was to see if there was an improvement in stock form without running overly rich. bike ran fine. alltho the bike did idle 200 rpm faster with relocated IAC. wasnt a problem.
    just sharing in case anybody else thought of doing this.
     


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  11. wildstang

    wildstang New Member

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    this modification is a common mod performed to automobiles after a cold air intake kit installation relocating the IAC further away from the motor near the fender mounted K&N filter wich the automotive aftermarket companys utilize for power increases and it proved to be beneficial here on the bike with no ill side effects as far as i could tell cruising it 3 hours today.
     


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  12. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    My IAC on my Jeep 4.0 was shot. Nice read! Keep up the good work!!! I still like carburetors on bikes, sorry...FI was kewel on air-head and flying brick beemers though....just learing about FI that is...
     


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  13. wildstang

    wildstang New Member

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    i still havent worked out a switching method yet. as of now untill i find or should say purchase a 4 way switch thats compatible i have 2 sets of color coded insulated plugins im hiding behind the license plate that i can plug the 2 red wires together for the stock locations IAC and unplug the red ones and plug the 2 black wires together for the relocated IAC. there hidden and cant see them untill i fish them out behind the license plate. the switch i tried to utilize tripped a FI light but utilizing it this way i have it set up it dosent trip the light. i will eventually get it done properly but like i said im still in the trial and error procedures.
     


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