97 VFR won't start

Soo... Single owner of a 4th gen ('97) with only 15.000 miles on her. Five years ago I started having electrical problems (she'd just die on me, but it wasn't the rectifier), and took her to a mechanic. Two months after the mechanic "fixed" her, it started happening again. Had lost my job, and had no money, so she went into storage.

Now, five years later, I've pulled her out again. This, though not in a chronological order, is what I've done to her, in the last two weeks: I took the carbs apart, and they actually looked GOOD! But, I still soaked/cleaned/soaked them, and re-installed them. I also bought a VFRness + a Ricks rectifier and installed that (preventative reason). Changed the clutch/brake fluids (the clutch side was almost dried out). Got some nice Metzeler Sportec M5's on. Pulled apart, and cleaned/greased every single electrical connection on the bike. Cleaned/oiled the chain (feels like new). Installed a new battery. Installed 5000k dual hi/lo HID's (which rock, when you ride with dark visors). Installed red led bulbs in the gauge (saw this, from sruss67, and decided to copy him - http://vfrworld.com/forums/3rd-4th-...d-bulbs-4th-gen-instrument-gauge-cluster.html). Changed the oil+filter and added Seafoam. Changed the fuel filter. Filled fresh gas in it, along with seafoam. And after a few tries, she started. WooHooo!! After 250 miles, I changed the oil+filter again.

The shop installing my tires took her for a ride, and thought she ran like new!

So far, so good...

A couple of days ago, I started having both some starting issues, and some idling issues. Eventually it turned into a short, every time I'd hit the start button. Though I couldn't find any exact problems on the wiring, I found that separating the starter wires right by the solenoid, fixed the short. So I insulated each wire individually, and the problem went away.

As for the idling, I noticed a prevalent smell of gas, and realized I hadn't gotten one of the rubber cuffs, under the carbs, tightened enough (it was leaking a little gas, when running). QUESTION 1: Could this be why I had problems with the idling?

Today, she wouldn't start again!! No short this time. When I turn the ignition, she duds out on me. But this time lights, clock, and gauge, stays on. So, no short. Battery reads 12.8V. Tried to jump it off the charger, but didn't help. Just went online and ordered a new solenoid. QUESTION 2:To someone who cannot experience this first hand; does this sound like it's the solenoid?

Hopefully I explained myself okay here. My biggest problem is, I have no clue what I'm doing, but I'm not mechanically challenged. And not afraid of challenges...obviously. When it comes to the electrical, though. I need some serious explaining...pretty much the way you'd explain something to a 5-year old! This is mainly to avoid me being confused, or confusing somebody else. :crazy:

Any help, ideas, or guidance is highly appreciated, thank you.

- T

This forum rocks! I've caught myself coming back here so many times, over the years. So a couple of weeks ago, I finally signed up, thinking I was getting my sweet thing back on the road!

 

Hopefully the kill switch is in the run position.

It would probably be easier for you to download the service manual and follow the troubleshooting guide in there. It could be one of the many safety switches that is acting up.

Good luck.

 

So what exactly happens when you try to start it? Does the engine turn over at all? If not does the bike make any sound at all when you press the starter button? More details please.

Rollin

 

check neutral switch side stand switch, kill switch, then check all your leads to the starter , solenoid, every plug that you unplugged pull and reattach...

 

It's always possible to test the solenoid (and battery and starter) by jumping the two large terminals on top with pliers.

Check the output of your chaging system easily with a meter, and inspect the contacts after you remove the wiring plug from the solenoid, where burning isn't uncommon.:redface:

 

Thanks for the quick responses!

When I hit start, it the clicks once, by the solenoid.

I've checked, and rechecked all connection, and switches. The only one I'm not sure about, is the stand; but that makes no sense to me. How do I check that one?

Turned out, the leak came from the choke. To figure out why, I pulled the carbs off again today. One of the four tubes had gas sitting all the way up to the carburetor. Thought I might have a bad float,but they're all moving good. Cleaned it all again (since it was all apart), and got it all put back together. What else could've caused the gas to not move through? It drove like a dream, for 10-12 days.

Also, you're saying I can just jump the solenoid, no problem?

 

Oh, and I should say - no clue on electrical. So suggestions need guidance. Hope that isn't asking too much here...

And no burned connections anywhere. Seriously, everything looks like new.

 

If the relay clicks, then the safety switches are good.

The next step should be to use a jumper cable from the + battery post to the starter, to see if the starter is working. If the starter works, either the contacts in the relay are shot, or the cable/connections are bad.

 

Thx for your help. Just to make sure; I jump it from the battery positive, to...... the solenoid in, or up near the fuse box?

 

Battery positive to the positive post of the starter. Just pull back the rubber boot and contact it to the post. Make sure the bike is in neutral before attempting, as all safety switches are bypassed.

The starter relay (solenoid) is under the seat with the battery, not up by the fuse box. You should locate and do a physical inspection of this item, before proceeding. The connectors and relay have been known to do a little melting.

 

Thanks, bud. The reason I asked, is sometimes people refer to the starter vs starter switch. Just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same thing. I'll jump it to the solenoid either tonight, or tomorrow morning. As I had thought it may be a solenoid problem, I ordered a new one the other day. Just hasn't showed up yet. Any thoughts as to my gas problem?

 

A loose cuff can cause idle problems. If you're itching, you could check the air filter and plugs, as you didn't mention them in the o/p.

 

When I pulled the carb yesterday, I checked on the plugs, and they were slightly wet (brand new, along with the filter). I actually feared not tighntening the cuffs enough, so I put a socket on'em, instead of the screwdriver i used the first time around. Thx!! Any clue as to the gas sitting up the the edge of one of the carbs?

I'm considering buying an ultrasonic cleaner, and throwing the carbs in there, just to make sure they're dead clean. Though if you look at one of my pictures, it looks pretty damn good! Any experience with those?

http://vfrworld.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/29392/title/carbs/cat/501

 

If there is no fuel in the floats, then the valve, the float operates, is not closing properly.

 

"As for the idling, it was leaking a little gas, when running. QUESTION 1: Could this be why I had problems with the idling? "


HELLYESS!! No amount of leaking i acceptable ! And your plugs looked wet ?? Float bowl gasket maybe or classic leaky float needle. You can check header temps at idle speed to see if all 4 are firing. How long was it sitting ??

 

5+ years! When it originally started, I had leaks from 2 bad bowl gaskets. Replaced them all. Then I just found a new leak; the gasket on the choke inlet, by the rear left carb. As I can't start it, I don't know yet, if I fixed it. Why would there gas sitting all the way up to the carb, in that same place?

Sorry to everyone trying to help, if it seems I'm not jumping on everything. I'm renting a garage somewhere else, and my car JUST got recovered from theft. Have to get a salvage title on it, before I can drive it. Kinda hinders me from running back and forth all day. Godness forbid, I would have to walk back and forth all day.....

I'll go down there in a little bit, and try to jump it from the battry to the starter, like Karazy suggested.

 

When I drain the float bowl, pure gas comes out of all four of them. So there's definitely gas there.

 

Not the bowl, but in the float. Sometimes they can leak and if they fill up with gas, they won't float anymore.

 

If your solonoid clicks wild it is the battery, it does not provide enough power and if it not helps charging the battery. The battery is dead. Try a new battery. It helped for me, last year I had the same problem.
I know my english is bad sorry