Clutch question!

I posted on here a couple of weeks ago about clunky gear changes, the oil change has sorted the gears but now I feel the clutch is iffy! The bike has 24,000 miles on it. the bite point seems to be right at the end of the clutch lever travel. I started to price new clutch plates and everyone I've spoken to say the same, it's almost un-heard of to replace a clutch on such low mileage. Is there anything that can be done to help without buying new parts i.e adjustment or cleaning slave cylinders?? 1998 vfr hydraulic clutch. Many thanks.

 

Have you checked to see if the slave cylinder (located on the sprocket cover on the 4th gen) isn't leaking?

 

are you running synthetic oil? for example my clutch slipped ever so slightly when i bought the bike and after installing redline synthetic motorcycle oil the slipping became more pronounced. mine is currently near service interval and since ive got mine tore down for the winter to freshen the motor up and add some performance oriented parts i decided to order and install a complete barnett clutch kit with new steels and kevlar frictions and stronger springs for 136.00 total to my door. (ebay) little haggling over the price with the provider.
it dont take much to burn up the clutches by an in-experienced driver riding the hell out of them no matter what the mileage is on them. previous owner may have burnt them up and glazed them over.

 

That is low mileage for new clutch.....Have you try to flush the fluid completely?

 

This. How is the clutch fluid? Drain and fill it couple times..

 

Do you use your bike for commuting? The stronger springs that come with the barnett clutch kit are little hard on the clutch lever to squeeze every time(at least that is what I read)

 

Did you use MA approve oil? Using automotive oil with friction reducing additives is not good for wet clutches.

 

I had the same symtoms on mine when I got it & there are two things to check.

1. Replace the clutch fluid, chain lube gets absorbed past the salve cylinder seals & reduces the clutch function. Bleed it through, the stuff in the bottom half of my like was like tea.

2. The clutch springs wear out on these. Check their free length as per the manual. Mine started slipping after a new oil change & all the plates were fine, but all the spings were at or below the minimum free length !

As for mileage to replace clutch plates, if you (or previous owner) drag it away all the time, you can wear plates out in a couple dozen runs. Mileage is NO indicator of wear on abuseable parts ! Ask any magazine rider they cook them all the time !

 

These bikes are hard on clutch fluid, as you can see by the way it gets darker quicker compared to the brake side. I would take off the cap on your clutch side and siphon off the excess fluid, then give it a good cleaning with a paper towel. Dont use any contact/brake cleaner in there. Make sure its clean, there is a return orifice there that can get clogged up. You can use a piece of wre from a brisle brush and carefully see if it is obstucted. There is also another hole there with a protective honda think "thingie" supposed to protect you from getting brake fluid in your eyes I guess. You can check this too, and gently clean it with (I use a conton swap, that I cut off the end with.)

After all that fun stuff, re-fill master cylinder and start the bleed process from the slave cylinder, until you see clear brake fluid circulating. I have a power-bleeder I use for these hydraulic systems as they are rather nasty to bleed regularly. Dont forget to adjust your clutch lever so you have the most throw, so your getting maximum stroke...thats it...slave cylinder could be fucked but you have to remove it to inspect, unless you have a leak underneath...Cheeers :drinkers:

 

I have been using the bike for commuting for about a year now, before that it was just a toy. For about 3 years I was using motul factory line 3000v fully synthetic oil (changed regularly) but have very recently changed to castrol power 1 semi synthetic and seems good. The clutch doesn't slip but the lever feels light and as if the clutch is only just disengaging between gear change. I have replaced clutch fluid about a year ago, the slave cylinder doesn't appear to be leaking. Someone said the slave cylinder can benefit from a good clean due to the chain + sprocket being soo close. Im thinking maybe new clutch springs and new fluid!

 

Mohawk it sounds alot like what you've said, it only felt strange once I put new oil in about 3 weeks ago. I don't thrash the bike but I do like to use the power it has. I'll definitely check the springs and slave cylinder and pump some new fluid through. Thanks everyone.

 

no i dont use it to commute with. just basically a toy 4 me. (love VFR's since a kid) with the mods im making i need the extra holding power of the springs. from experience over the years the springs lose some of there strength and soften up to near oem specs with age.

 

I checked over my clutch a few weeks ago seeing as my bike has 35, 000 miles and I can be hard on clutches at times. Everything measured out well within spec. To me it sounds like it is in the hydraulics of your clutch. Because even the most worn out clutch and springs the hydraulics will adjust for that. Sounds like you may have some old fluid or there maybe some air in the line somehow. Also if someone has overtightened the reservoir cap it can do that. Those only need to be barely snugged on there. Good luck and let us know how it comes out.

 

This is just me tawking here so you may disregard what eva the fuk I am saying. If I went thru the pains to remove my clutch cover and the basket along with all the plates, I would not bother measuring them, I would have replacement parts waiting in the wings (ala-in a tuperware with oil.)

Unless it was going to be sold, and then, and I only mean then, if I was really, really bored, would I choose to take off a clutch cover and inspect the plates with my vernier caliper. Thats strictly just me tawking though...

Btw, I did mine at 77,000 and didnt bother measuring anything. The metal plates looked fine (but got replaced anyway) along with stock springs. It was more a piece of mind excercise along with a wallet lightening experience (I get parts at 10% ova dealer) anywhOOOoo - bike rides a tiny bit different, you notice over 120 mph though, seems like it has a little more balls...also, I have a re-built clutch master cylinder along with braided line and a new clutch slave. Gud LUck bleeding these can be a pig sometimes.

 

Its not hard to check it at all and if you find you need new parts then order what you need. If I were rich I guess I would replace partsfor peace of mind but until I am I will stick with replacing what needs replacing.

 

i definitely agree with the taking apart statement. if it wasnt slipping in the 1st place i more then likely wouldn't even bother with inspecting it. as far as the price goes its only 136$ for completely new set up. i sometimes spend more then 136$ taking the wife out for dinner so i view it as just short changing her 1 dinner lol (hope she dosen't read that part) and as far as it being hydraulically related slip, generally hydraulics affect it more on the disenganging side of the sprectrum having problems with fully disengaging. ive never ever encountered an hydraulic setup holding the clutch slightly open either on automotive or bikes in my 20+ years wrenching. just my 2 cents.

 

I was planning on just replacing the springs but I should check/measure the plates as im opening her up anyway. My local Honda dealer want £190 for friction plates and springs which I thought was a lot as I can get the same kit from ebc for £58! Is the original gear that much better??
I will do all the above mentioned and let you know how I get on. Maybe a few weeks away as I'm working for the next 21 days, but I will do it and get back to you. Thanks for all your help.

 

190 euro? not sure but if your referiencing euro but i found mine on ebay for 136$ usd wich equates to 104.455 euro
as far as wether OEM parts are any better then the aftermarkets, that really boils down to ones preference. i prefer getting certain things from the aftermarket because your generally not going to deal with OEM inflated prices.
as far as finding an oem quality set on ebay im sure one can find an equivalent with oem springs and frictions but i personally chose the stronger spring kit with the kevlar friction rather then the oem cork impregnated paper friction for durability issues and common sense tells me kevlar plates will outlast cork in the long run. besides the kevlar plates according to barnett salesman will work better with synthetic engine oils wich i prefer over normal oil.

 

and the kit i bought has friction discs, and the (seperate steel plates)<<<< wich you didn't mention and springs.

 

the price my honda shop gave me for just friction plates and 5 springs was £190 British pounds and I found that price extortionate! I havnt checked eBay yet, but if I find I need to replace the friction plates and possibly steel plates I'll source them elsewhere. Like you say people have thier own preference when it comes to aftermarket parts but I have heard good things about Barnett clutch parts.