Hello! Looking to buy a VFR1200

I'm an old guy. I bought a used low-mileage 2001 VFR800 in 2003 and kept it for a couple years. Really liked it. I'm looking to buy a new or used VFR1200F, so, that's why I'm here, to ask a bunch of dumb questions.

I'm curious about the ease of minor maintenance, like oil/filter changes, radiator flushing, etc. I'm pretty good with a wrench and have tons of tools (some cheap, some not) but I'm not interested in doing any heavy-duty maintenance, just the simple stuff.

 

I did all the maintenance on mine after the 600 mile service. What convinced me was the shop that did my service left the radiator cap loose on mine and I started losing antifreeze after that service. I bought the manual and am very mechanically inclined. Their are secrets to removing the fairing but nothing terribly hard. Like most things Japanese patience is rewarded along with precision. The oil changes are easy. The filters (2) on the DCT are also easy. What adjustments I made to the suspension were also simple. Keep it up with day to day stuff and the rest is easy. The 16,000 mile service will be heck, but I would have tried it. From what I've read the adjustable rockers are the only ones that need adjustment. Also change the rear end lube early. I did and it was nasty looking. She's a great beast,but one I loved.

Bill


P.S. I also did 2 tire changes to the bike. PR3s first then PR2s. The original roadsmarts felt better but lasted 3800 miles. The PR3s were better lasting but fell in a little too easy. The next set was to have been Roadsmart 2. I also did a brake pad change on the front which was also easy. Get a good set of torque wrenches. You'll need all 3. 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. 3/8s is the most important. But the body needs the 1/4". I found I overtightened the body until I had y final torque wrench.

 

Thanks much for the info. I've had quite a few fairinged sport bikes in my time so I'm used to the ritual of removing fairing pieces.

I get the factory service manual for almost every bike I've owned -- well worth the $50-$100.

How do you like the DCT? Pretty cool? I read one review that said that the bike in auto mode shifted faster and cleaner than Superman could do it.

 

The fairing is not like most others. Honda went to great lengths to hide integrate the fasteners into the bike. Even after the fastners are removed certain positions/movements are required. I found my manual for $30 online. The DCT was very nice, but it doesn't make it a race bike. On 2010 the power is softened down low to prevent wheelies. Getting off the line is where everyone will leave you. If you are going to try and accelerate quickly I recommend from a rolling start. Try to have it above 5000 in first gear go from sport mode to manual. That will keep it from upshifting. When ready whack the throttle full open (be prepared for it.) Then put it into sport mode. It will rev to 10,000 rpm before shifting. There is a video of the bike on a russian site trying all three modes. This bike will never be a 1/4 mile ripper (DCT.) But it is fantastic otherwise. Race bikes with quick shifters/ air shifters are just as fast or faster shifting. Do not fool yourself into thinking this is a race bike. It isn't. If you want a hayabusa get one or the new 1400 kawasaki. This is a semi touring bike with pretentions of a sport. Or a really heavy sport bike that pretends to be a sport tourer. But be realistic going in.

Bill

 

Bill,

Believe me, I know the VFR1200 is not a true sport bike. I've had real sport bikes: CBR900RR, CBR929RR, RC51. I'm too old for that now. I just want a fair amount of power in a reasonably comfortable sport-touring bike. I've been riding Harley softails the last few years and I've finally got fed up with cruisers. I'm also looking at new or used ST1300s.