Nicks VFR 400 project, let the stupid question's begin...

Ok,
Question time now...
Background....
Track Bike, NC21 Frame NC24 Motor, This bike has been set up with most of the wiring stripped out and running total loss...
Currently the only way's to start it is to either crash/bump start it, or run a lead from the (+) of the battery directly to the starter motor (which is very crude),
I've got the starter relay plug but have no idea on how to wire it up, I figure that I could just add a starter switch somewhere.
Can anyone point me in the correct direction on how to wire this up.
Cheers in advance
Nick

 

Nick, this looks like almost any Honda relay. Try to find any Honda wiring diagram and you should be able to figure out what terminals to put a starter switch on. Other than that I can't help.

 

a little more info

Ok, after reading what I wrote I realised you guys cant see the bike so I need to supply more information.
I have looked at wiring diagrams, but am struggling on how to deal with, no turn key, no clutch gear switch, no extra wiring left in the loom to allow for this. - the only thing that is normal is that the kill switch still works..

So with the picture of the relay I will need to figure out how to power it up (so it works) then how to activate it so it will fire the starter when connected.

I need basics like put that wire to battery (that's your power to the unit), connect those two together using a switch (starter) ....

hope this makes more sense...

Nick

 

I can't say with 100% certainty, but if those are like all the other honda starter relays, then you want to connect the positive (+) battery to the end covered in the red rubber protector, and the negative (-) side of the battery to the frame or another ground on the bike. Then you will need to place a switch to complete the circuit either across the two terminals (bolts with nuts) or between the two top plug blades. The bottom blades are usually where the main fuse goes so those might need to be connected as well.

 

Hi nick am in palmerston north too pm me if you need help or want to chat i got vt 250 in bits so i have spares

 

I have vt 500 am working the guy just wired a on of switch by passed the igination key

I got book for my vfr 750 and the vt 500 if that helps and 2 vt 250 start motors not sure they work

 

Piece of cake Nick,this is a very simple circuit to hook up.

The "B" terminal wire hooks up to the Positive post on the battery. The "M" terminal wire hooks up to the lug on the starter motor.

The "B" and "M" wires make up the "supply power" portion of that starter relay.



Now you need to find out which two wire terminals are used for the "signal power" portion of that starter relay,so at this point I'll need you to perform two very simple tests.

First I need you to get out your multimeter and verify that the 30 amp fuse in that starter relay is good. Just leave the fuse in the relay and test across the two poles in the pic below.

(Just a heads-up Nick. Since you're only going to be using the starter relay to power up the starter and nothing else on your bike than that 30 amp fuse won't actually be used for anything in the circuit. However I need you to leave it in the relay just for the moment so we can verify exactly how that starter relay is wired. It might be wired exactly like all other Honda starter relays and then again maybe not.
When it comes to electrical components/circuits you can't just assume,you need to verify. Otherwise things tend to go BOOM!!! when you energize them. )



Next I need you to pull back the Red protective boot on the "B" terminal wire in your pic and test for continuity between that "B" terminal and the upper two wire terminals (Red arrows in the pic) and then test for continuity between the "B" terminal and the lower two wire terminals (White arrows in the pic).

We're looking to find the two wire terminals that have no continuity with the "B" terminal. Let me know what you find.

 

Stosh, Yep this is fine... I've done a visual, and meter test on continuity. :thumb:

White arrows have continuity. :thumb:

 

Yeah will take you up on that offer at some stage... I think once I can get it started easer will be more inclined to start working on it...
Cheers for the offer
Nick

 

your welcome buddy any time you want have coffee chat be cool

I going try work on mine since taken engine out i cant get starter

to turn over , and trying work out where wires go myself.

I got like whats surposed to be the main fuse box missing on

handle bars , and wires all just soldered in big mess aghhh

 

Alright Nick so that means you'll be using the upper two wire terminals for the "signal power" portion of the starter relay.

One quick test first. Test for continuity across those upper two wire terminals. I just want to verify that the coil windings inside that starter relay are good. No sense wiring it all up only to find out that you've got a bad starter relay.

Okay I gotta eat my words here just a bit,I was thinking street bike and not race bike when I posted that. Sorry Nick,my bad. :redface:

Originally I was going to suggest that you run an inline fuse directly off the battery Positive post and then route a wire up to your starter switch,but I went back and looked closely at the starter relay schematic once again. What we need to do here is protect the "signal power" circuit on the starter relay with a fuse,and since the lower two wire terminals on the starter relay have continuity with the "B" terminal that means that battery power passes through that 30 amp fuse to get to those two lower wire terminals. We can use that to our advantage here and keep the wiring on your bike nice and tidy.

That 30 amp fuse is way more than you'll ever need for this simple starter circuit Nick so I would suggest that you replace it with something much smaller like a 10 amp fuse.

"B" terminal wire connects to the battery Positive post.

"M" terminal wire connects to the lug on the starter motor.

Run a wire off one of the lower wire terminals to one side of the starter switch and then run another wire off one of the upper wire terminals to the other side of the starter switch. The starter switch can be either a push button type or a momentary toggle type,either one will do just fine.

Run one more wire off the other upper wire terminal and connect that wire either to the frame ground or to the battery Negative post.




Okay Nick before you press that starter button I want you to verify that the starter circuit you just wired is working properly.

Disconnect the "M" terminal wire from the starter relay. Set your multimeter up to check for voltage. Connect one test lead to the battery Negative post and connect the other test lead to the "M" terminal on the starter relay.

At this point you should be reading no voltage on the "M" terminal. Now press the starter button,you should now be reading full battery voltage on that "M" terminal. When you release the starter button you should once again be reading no voltage.

If those are your test readings than reconnect the "M" terminal wire,check to make damned sure that you have the bike in Neutral,and go ahead and press that starter button and fire that baby up! :whoo:

 

I just had a play and she works ok, I've just got to get some bits tomorrow, was just using misc. stuff I had in the tool box. So will pick up some connectors and a 2 switches, one ill use to make the circuit (on or off) and a push button starter.

Cheers for your help Stosh. Your a top man.
Nick
- will post a picture of how she turned out after I get it all wired up

 

And she is alive!! (well the starter motor is, with the simple push of a button and not a jump directly off the battery to the starter motor!

Here is how she looks from the relay end (still unsure of how to house the relay)


I then made up a mount from one of my girls plastic snack food containers (The wife not happy with me )

The above picture is a close up, I've put in a toggle switch (to control the earth for starting - not sure why I did this :crazy: but its acting like a double safety)


This picture show better what's missing from the bike, so you can see no ignition switch, no normal switches on the handle bars etc...

Thanks again to Stosh for his help!! couldn't have done it with out you buddy