i think im the only 5th gen rider in the philipines. bike wont start :(

sorry if my first post would regard my bike not starting. im quite desperate so i had to sign in different bike forums in order to find a solution for my bike problem. i recently bought a 5th gen from a grey bike importer with 14,000km on the clock. brought the bike home and did the usual preventive maintenance ( change oil, bleed brakes, flush cooling system, replace air/oil filter, repack/ replace bearings and other stuff). i felt very confident to ride the bike after all the stuff i did. sadly bike died on me while riding after 90 kilometers. i had it shipped back home and tried to figure out what went wrong. checked online for solutions on how to get it back running, plugs have spark, replaced the battery, kill switch good, side stand switch ok, fuel pump primes, fuses are good, bank angle sensor had already been bipassed by previous owner.

the bike would crank when i press on start button but it wouldnt fire up. i poured fuel directly into the intake runners, cranked it, the bike started. this is my first fuel injected bike so i really dont know where to start. no good pgm-fi mechanics near my place. what could be wrong with her. need your expert advice. its a 98' btw

 

When your R/R fails and drops the voltage too low the FI doesn't work and your bike dies.
Other than the electronics, these motors are bullet proof.
Mine did the same thing, a lot of members on here had their R/Rs die this year.

 

Thanks for the quick replies. Yes, the battery had enough juice to crank the bike at the time it died on me. Im already searching for a mosfet type r/r since this bike still has oem r/r. But if that thing failed, wouldnt my battery completely lose charge? Man i really love this bike and i cant wait for it to run again. Also i cant seem to find parts for it locally so i might buy parts from you guys if ever.

 

The pump primes for about 2 or 3 seconds. The light stays on damn.. What does that mean?

 

Hmm...the fuel pump priming should mean you have the voltage, sorta rules out a bad R/R.
Not that it hurts to replace it anyways.
But like Tink said, I'd get the factory service manual and a good multi-meter and check your fuses and make sure everything is in spec.

 

If pump primes, your circuitry to pump is OK, so I would assume bank sensor and fuel cut off relay are all working. If you pour gasoline into intake directly, and engine starts, it means your firing is OK, timing is OK, etc...
This leaves us with fuel delivery into cylinders.
I suspect 2 things can be here. Insufficient fuel pressure, although this would probably not trigger a F1 light illumination.
Second is a bad injector. This would trigger a light, and as a precaution, ECU will cut the engine off completely as a safety precaution.
This is also stated in the service manual, page 5-2 I think, towards the beginning of fuel injection section.

 

man thank you guys for the replies really. so far i was able to download the FSM, i also did the diagnostic test, all four injector trouble codes went up. could it be a bad ecm?

 

yes sir tink, that one. im really worried that my ecm has gone bad coz all four injector trouble codes went up

 

i'll do that asap. a bit late to be messing with the bike. its almost 3am. hehe

 

ECM's on this bike are not known to fail, from what I know. (But anyone can correct me if I'm wrong). I'm with Tink - I'm thinking a bad ground somewhere.

immasmoke - When my R/R was "going" bad, I started to get all sorts of codes. MAP sensor, Speed sensor, and a couple others that I can't remember. There were at least 4 different FI codes. Turned out that, of course, my R/R was bad, and it had cooked some of the wires. Not uncommon.

Once I replaced the R/R and cleaned up all the cooked wires, no more codes.

Good luck sir. And Tink knows his stuff.

 

+1 on the ground, since all 4 have raised codes.

Pliskin also has a point on bad R/R, so it would not hurt to check both for correct DC voltage and AC component as well. Bad R/R will start spewing AC noise through when they start going bad.

 

It can't hurt to replace the R/R if it is the stock one. The old R/R will leave you stranded at some point.
If all the stuff Tink told you to check out...checks out then I would lean towards the R/R.