Motor removal and the carbs.....tell me a short story......

So is it absolutely necessary to remove the carbs to remove the motor from the frame on a 85 VF700? I'm aware of not removing the carbs from the aluminum plenum, I planed on removing them, but for now it would be easier to just yank the whole kit as one piece. The airbox cover is already off......

 

Snowballs will vacation in hell before you get that oot with the carbs on. It is a tight fit as it is, don't torture yourself further and just yank them off.

 

Yeah, after I looked at it again, I realized the impossibility of getting it out without yanking them, I got it out. Those damn carbs seem like they're going to be a bear to get back on!

 

Not that bad really, new boots and a little beer and they jump back on. :whistle:

 

I used new boots (necessary regardless, my old ones broke) and some good ol' ky jelly. They slid on after a couple of failed attempts. Probably less than 10 minutes total.

 

silicone dielectric grease is a better choice for the rubber parts. helps keep them soft and reduces dry rot.

 

Hey, :welcome:

This is your first post here and you're stating what?? Scientific fact or one guy's opinion ?? I tried dielectric grease once and hated the taste ! |Some greases can brake down rubber, so has an electrical greaSE, usually applied to metal contacts and plastic plugs, been tested on all rubber compounds?? Very scientific here concerning product recommendations, sorry. :crazy: I know it's just the internet, but proof is better than opinion, and I use brake fluid to lube carb mounts pre-installation, right or wrong ??

Most compounds/chemicals applied to rubber cause some breakdown of the original chemistry, which is why you shouldn't lick you tires if you've been drinking.

 

I just use WD-40 and work them from the back to the front to get them in. Once you've done it, it is not a big deal.

 

just my personal opinion. 30 years and no failures yet. works for me.