Anybody see any problems with this valve adjustment method??

Hey guys, doing a minor rebuild on my 85 VF700 with 23,000 miles, I didn't realize I was going to need this special tool? until I got the cam covers off. I have a couple questions regarding discrepancies between the Honda Manual and some online tutorials on doing the timing. First my Honda manual specifically reads to turn the crank counterclockwise when putting the cams in position starting with the 1-3 and then moving on "90 deg" to the 2-4 mark. Is counterclockwise correct? I read on another thread that crank should be turned clockwise and never spun in reverse? My older hondas always had the direction of rotation marked on the rotor... here's part of the post I read:

"The simple answer is as follows & based on the factory tool solution without the tool ! Look at the centre of the Y shaped follower between the lock nuts, get a short flat blade screw driver with a wide blade, as in a minimum 5-6mm, now adjust the cam on whatever cylinder to TDC position, then place the flat of the screw driver under the centre of the Y & rest the shaft on the edge of the cylinder head, apply a little donwards pressure to the other end of the screw driver (you can hang a small weight on it) this will both centre the follower on its bearing & ensure that it is in proper contact with the cam & that there is NO clearance in the follower bearing. Now adjust each tappet/locknut to the correct clearance. Do all valve clearances, always turn the engine FORWARDS, which is clockwise when viewed from the right side of the bike. NEVER turn it back if you over shoot the timing mark. To make this easier, you can remove the plugs, then there in no compression messing with your turning !"

So what I've done was place at first large flathead and then a plastic harbor freight pry bar under the cam follower and attached a bungee to it and in various positions tied it so there was resistance on the prybar holding the cam follower up then made all my adjustment according to the honda cam placement method however did one feeler at a time rechecking after adjustments to make sure both valve per cylinder were equal. I found that about a 1/3 of the adjustments were okay and I did not adjust but the rest were too tight and i readjusted to a comfy sliding .15mm

Doing the carbs and waiting on gaskets before I put it all together so I have some time to leave it open if I should go back in and redo?

 

Lots of opinions on this....everyone knows about opinions. The method that works for me is to ignore the timing marks and rotate the engine until the heel of the cam lobe is positioned next to the cam follower and adjust the rocker clearance using two feelers. I've never had a problem resulting from using this method.

 

You need to use two feeler gauges at a time. Other wise your heading down the path to destruction.

Plus you want to turn the motor COUNTER CLOCK WISE looking at alt. This keeps the slack on the proper side of the cams. other wise a cam may not be turn enough for the proper setting.

Like they say RTFM.


ps: you didn't really pry bar and bungee shit did you?

 

exactly !!

ignore the marks; just do the adjustments when the cam lobe is pointing AWAY from the valve you're adjusting

 

@ GreyVF750F....you saw the pic... Used the screwdriver on the first and then a nice tapered non marring plastic pry usually used for automotive trim. As I understand it the important part is eliminating the gap between the cam follower and cam to get the proper reading at the adjuster while trying to keep it even. This seemed like an affordable and safe way to do it. I borrowed another feeler set from a friend today and will do the two feeler method with my pry bar shit on there. Just wanted to confirm the counterclockwise rotation. Thanks guys.

 

Once you put the feeler gauge under rocker , on top of stem there will be no gap at the cam/follower. Unless you have over.006", that's why you are adjusting the clearance. Who the hell came up with that one. I just love it. You could put a rubber band around it and stretch it back to the bars. That should get the clearance out Clarence.