R/R upgrade advice.

So hi Ive talked to some of you on my past threads about upgrading the R/R. Long story short, i got my project bike sold today and got some extra funds to get this done finally.

Someone linked me to this in the past:

Roadstercycle-Index

They said the FH020AA was the way to go - but I got some questions about it. What would it take to get this installed? I know the stie says that its pretty much predone for you except the stator wires, so what exactly would I have to do to complete it? Any modifications needed on the R/R such as cutting or shaving?

Also ive seen a lot of comments about getting the stuff from wiremybike.com - the vfrness, etc. My question for that is if my current stock R/R is still fine and I just put in a vfrness, would that be as good?

What would be the best of the 2 routes to take on this?

Thanks!

 

The OEM R/R is not very good and I've known quite of few people who have suffered electrical failures resulting in charging issues. An excellent option is to buy the modified wiring harness from wiremybike that allows you to use an R1 R/R. Have you had previous electrical issues? Have you tested your existing charging voltage and inspected the molex connections at the stator and the R/R ?

Rollin

 

Hi Michael if you think your R/R still good I still would recommend to have a spare one available with you at all time while riding. You never know when you need it especially when you are miles away from home or a service station. Just my 2 cents.

 

That is a yamaha R1 regulator.No shaving or cutting involve.Site sells complete kit. You can also do what I did and buy
http://vfrworld.com/forums/5th-gene...how-fix-common-regulator-stator-failures.html
Part A R/R Connectors
Part B R/R Connectors
So you can buy the regulator alone Roadstercycle and wiring from above and basically have bullet system for $160

VFRness is designed to work with stock plugs.It won't work with Yamaha regulator! Easern beaver wiring is superior with metri pack fuse box and solid water tight plugs much superior then VFRness or Stock.

It would be significant improvement however if your stock RR is old style then you need mosfet new design unit I posted above.You might get lucky put 20k miles before it fries so decision is yours.

I personally would replace with R1 unit with beaver wiring and keep the stock as emergency unit.

 

I installed the Roadstercycle Super Mosfet kit (Wiring is done up already minus stator connections) and it is top notch. The install is straight forward...

1) Disconnect Stock stator and power wiring connectors upstream of the old RR and remove old RR.
2) Tape up or seal the old power connector (no longer used) in way that water will not get into it.
3) Cut the stock Stator connector off.
4) Mount new RR. On my 2000, I had to shave the top left corner fins down a bit so they would not rub on the tail side fairing (easy and no issues). I drilled a new hole in the mounting plate on my bike for the R1 reg so I could position it how I wanted. Stock hardware was used to mount it.
5) Run positive and negative wires to the battery
6) Connect stators wires from RR to Stator wires on the bike. I personally chose to solder the wires direct and eliminate a connector. This was easily done but I had to solder in about a 4-5 inch extension between the RR wires and the stator wires. Very simple. Heat shrink tubing and electrical tape was put over all soldered connections. You can also do as rubo suggests with good connectors.
7) I put wire loom tubing over all of the wiring and routed /ty-wrapped it all up nice.

Just finished a 1250 mile trip last week and it works perfect. Total time for install really taking my time was 3 hours.

 

I just completed the exact upgrade you are considering, and here is what I found.

The FH020AA was a worthy upgrade over my 2nd stock R/R that the bike was on. It gives more voltage at idle (14.0V) and at 5k rpm (14.3V). It also runs much cooler. Warm to the touch vs hot with the stocker. The fins are small enough that none of them require cutting and it fits fine under the bodywork. The mounting holes are not quite in the same location as the stockers, so simply drilling two new mounting holes on the mounting plate is the only mod required.

I cannot emphasize enough getting the electrical connectors that roadstercycle.com offers. They offer a very secure electrical connection to the R/R, once they are crimped, sodered and heat shrinked. Watch the videos on the website for some help. Jack at roadstercycle.com was very helpful when I asked him questions also. Good guy to deal with. I can send you pics of my FH020AA install if you like.

 

Thanks for the great advice! I think the "Super" kit from roadstercycle.com seems like just what I need....Considering I dont solder. Looks like it comes ready to install - minus stripping, crimping, and heat shrinking the stator wires into the ready made plugs. I sent Jack and email to make sure i can get the plug wires long enough to reach the stator wires - but other than that ill be ordering it any day now. Seems like a good way to spend $150. Just got my new battery in so I should have a pretty legit system to get me through my year of flight school and unemployment lol.

 

check out this link for canadian owners
VOLTAGE REGULATOR RECTIFIER

 

I have the vfrness and I'm running the stock R/R and it works fine. 14.5 at 5K. I do have a MOSFET R/R as a back up. One thing to consider is if you solder your wires together for the stator connections what happens if your R/R goes out in the field? Are you going to be able to install your back up R/R?

 

I just ordered the roadstercycle super mosftet kit yesterday...gonna go with that and maybe just put the stock one under the seat, along with a couple supplies to temporarily get the stator wires together. ?? Sounds good or what? lol

 

Sounds good you should be fine for quite awhile since you ditched the stock r/r though. Make sure you pack the connections with dielectric grease.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

 

Sorry for the total noobness..but where do i pack this grease? into the new connectors that go into the new R/R??

 

Yeah, in the stator to R/R connector.

 

Just to clarify once more...LOL..

Into the actual connector that goes into the R/R - specifically the stator one...NOT the connection where you cut and strip the stator wires and crimp them into the setup that roadstercycle makes for you?

Sorry, I just never heard of doing this before and I have read a couple sets of instructions on how to install it - so I just want to be sure im not squirting grease into the wrong stuff lol. What does this do for it anyway? And can I get it at any local auto store?

 

Yep. It basically keeps water out and gives you a stronger connection between contact points.

 

If the RR goes out, you just disconnect the connectors from the RR itself and remove and replace it (That is if you are running the R1/roadstercycle RR). Remember, even if you solder the wires direct to the stator, on the R1 Reg, you still have the connector that goes into the RR itself. In other words, it's a non issue.

 

nice info, the bottom 2 r/r are the best styles
REG/RECT?Car Electronics Products?Product Information?SHINDENGEN ELECTRIC MFG.CO.,LT

 

spec sheets
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looks like the fh019 series is more robust then the 12 series. please note all power dissapation is at 41C temp. as temp rises in r/r disappation downgrades logrithmicly