Engine "rattle" post clutch install

Hello all:

Ok, so I got done with my Barnett clutch install on my 98. While the bike was down, I swapped out the air filter and spark plugs (K&N and factory NGK-Rs) and did an oil and filter change.

I measured to make sure that all the steel plates (new) were perfectly flat and ensured that all steel plates went in the right way (all with machined face facing outwards).

I swapped the clutch at only 14k miles on my 1998 because I didn't like the engagement feel, not because of noise or slippage. Once complete, the clutch actuation is much better--it picks up much closer to the bar ends and swapping gears is a snap now by comparison.

Here's the thing: ever since I fired it back up, I have a rattle coming from the engine. It doesn't matter if the clutch is in or out and it increases with revs. It's not overly loud, but it's definitely a new sound. I tightened the clutch spring bolts by hand and am sure they're at least 9 ft/lb, maybe more. Any thoughts on what could be causing the noise? I heard that some blame the clutch basket but mine wasn't doing this before (new parts meshing differently perhaps?). I've heard that it won't affect performance or drivability so I should just ignore it but I'm not accustomed to doing that, so?...

 

Probably gonna need more info. A little more "earing" around the engine as its running.

Check stuff like.

Oil level... you said you changed the oil. Did you put enough back in? Right type?
Faring bolts... Often when changing the oil some take the lower farings off.
Clutch Basket... yeah it CAN be this for sure.
Clutch springs... ok stay with me here... you may have done an expert job at the placement and replace, however once you put pressure on the plates and springs, under heat.. you noted that the clutch operates tighter. Could be its so tight now, that the new plates are thick enough, that the springs are on the hairy edge of being too tight.. broken spring?
Clutch rod is too long... ok, this is a weird one. Same as above, now that you did a replacement kit, and new plates, again, you noted that the clutch operates tighter. It could be touching ever so slightly against the clutch rod, causing a rattle. Pull the rod, check the end. Or... pull it, and put a small dab of high temp axle grease on the tip of it before you slip it back in.
Air Box latch... isnt. Sometimes people leave the little bolts n nuts not fully tightened, OR over tighten them, and they break... both situations will cause a rattle. IF your airbox has the spring clips in it, perhaps you forgot to latch one back down?
Tank washer... having the tank up, for the air filter, perhaps you didnt quite get the tank back on exactly?
Tank rubbers... there should be small rubber pads on the left and right side of the bottom of the tank, where it would rest or touch the main engine frame. Ive done this myself, and accidentally knocked one off, then put the bike back together... then found the rubber on the floor. whoops!
Missing a tool?... small sockets, or socket extensions get left on top of the engine when doing spark plug replacements.


Considence?... maybe you bumped something else? Exhaust brackets? Faring stays?

Really, I could go on more, but basically heres the homework you've made for yourself.

Re-do your work. Its the only way to be certain. If you do it in reverse order, you may find it quicker.

Good luck! Lets us know what you found, so that others who run into the same situation can help diagnose similar problems.


Edited* oh, and one more thing. Tink is right. New sounds make me nervous. I would also advise against riding the bike until youve double, tripple and had another person check it out... if the rattle continues.

 

Did you replace the old springs? When me got my oem stuff from Honda, the metals where different than my originals as they did not have those stipple dots on them. Maybe it was too much to machine them or what-ever. No noises for me, engagement is definately different as the old pack had 70,000 miles on it. Above 120 mph you feel a difference in 6th gear, other-wise its kinda the same.

Only thing that is different, is when me starts the bike from the initial take off, backing out of the driveway, and snicking the bike from neutral into first gear, there is a louder "Clack" than the old set up. My little EX duz the same shit though and it only has 20,000 miles... I would do as the above posters sed and re-check ur work. Not a big deal really...

 

wow! thanks for all the insight and ideas guys. let me respond to what I know and then I'll get after it tonight. Re: the clear cover--I'm kicking myself that I only now learned of these otherwise I absolutely would have--my cover is ugly as is.

OIL LEVEL: it's definitely right--sitting right below the top line after running it for 3 min and then letting it sit for 3 minutes on the center stand. Also, I'm using a Honda filter and Honda oil as suggested by the owners manual.
FAIRING BOLTS: my fairings are still off cuz I am gonna swap out the stock rusted headers for some from Delkevic. I thought, perhaps, the noise was normal but the absence of the fairings made the noise more audible...then I thought that the plastic isn't likely to quell much noise...thoughts? Are you implying that a fairing bolt ended up somewhere or that the absence of the bolts can cause a noise?
CLUTCH BASKET: I inspected the basket and it looked just fine, but perhaps the new clutch components are wreaking havoc in there...what I've read is that the noise (if it's the basket) is just a noise and not to worry about it...is that true?
CLUTCH SPRINGS: I'll check the springs but don't think any are broken. Nothing has changed in the noise or anything since I started the bike. It rides great and the clutch actuation is as it should be (in my opinion). I also think a lot of the clutch improvement stems from the fact that the oil was about a quart low before I started this job...
CLUTCH ROD: man, I really don't wanna have to start re-engineering the bike. I figured I'd replace stock with "upgraded" for stock and not have to deal with this kind of thing...the Barnett steel/friction package lined up perfectly flush with the pressure plate once installed, just as the stock ones did so I'm really hopeful it's not that....
AIR BOX LATCH: oh man you were ALMOST on to something here since I had originally dropped 1 of the 6 screws that hold the air box on but I then found it and installed it. I know, FOR SURE. that the lid is on tight.
TANK WASHER: What is the tank washer? I took the tank completely off the bike and removed the banjo bolt that connects to the bike itself rather than the underside of the tank. I bought and installed new washers for that banjo bolt and torqued to spec.
TANK RUBBERS: You are referring to the 2 rubber "washers" that are near the headstock, by the handlebars and gauges, right? If yes, then yes, those are in place. OHHHH, wait, are you referring to the rubber "blocks" that are somewhat in the middle of the tank and that rest between tank and frame? If yes, I know I saw one of them but maybe the other isn't on so that gives me something to check.

As far as missing tools, man, I don't think that's it but I'm not exactly the world's most careful mechanic when it comes to ensuring that tools go back where they came from! I'll check some of this out tonight. I've only ridden the bike once and for a short time (temp only to 140) around the block so I can't be sure, but everything felt right or better than before. The bike sounded better and more healthy and it seemed to pull smarter and stronger....maybe I just need to pull the silencer and forget about it! lol

thanks for the help guys

 

RIDERVFR

yes, I replaced the springs with the Barnett heavy duty springs...I too noticed that my stock steel plates had dimples and the Barnett ones did not....Nevertheless, I measured and ensured the new plates were flat and installed them all in the right direction...

 

alright guys, update: I got after the bike yesterday giving it a once over. I verified that the tank was installed correctly with the "rubbers" in place both under the tank (between frame) and the washers up by the headstock. I verified that all hoses were routed correctly and everything was plugged in. I didn't want to reopen the engine cover, especially since I just changed the oil and put on a new gasket.

I decided to install my Delkevic headers (wow, what an easy job!) and I fired it up with no muffler. This may come as a surprise to some (I jest), but when I started it with no muffler, I couldn't hear the "rattle" anymore! Problem solved! hahaha Just kidding. Anyway, I went ahead and put the silencer back on and fired it up and took it for a ride. I don't feel anything odd in how the bike runs or pulls, in fact, it pulls stronger than ever--way more low end grunt/snap than before the tune-up.

I'll keep you guys posted, but as of now, I'm not going to dig any deeper to look for a "problem" as I'm confident I got this install done correctly.

Thanks for the help

 

hmmm. Exhaust clamps perhaps then?.

I have my carbs adjusted so well, they "clack" at idle. I also wear earbuds, and listen to music, so I dont hear any problems.

Glad you got it all working out ok, and youre confident and comfortable.

 

You usually hear more noise and more noises with the fairings off.

 

thanks...I just bought a 91 VFR 750 specifically to appropriate the wheels for my 98 VFR 800. Once I get the tires swapped over and the wheels on, I'll put on the fairings and see if the noise is still audible. Thanks for all the help guys...I now somehow am the owner of 2 VFRs within a span of 4 weeks! Is this normal?! haha