Over Heating 5th Gen

Anyone have any info about this Super Hawk fan conversion I've seen here in the forum in the past? I've searched and all it does is bring up every post that has the words Super Hawk in it. There is no mention of the fan mod other than one person mentioning they have done it.

What I'm specifically looking for, do you have to replace both the fan motor AND the fan blades with the Super Hawk parts?

Other than my fan dying, anyone have any suggestions to what would contribute to my bike overheating? To check the thermostat, do I simply pull the radiator cap & wait for the level to drop? Anyway to check the temp switch other than just letting the bike run & heating up? Anyone ever heard of a water pump failing on these bikes?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

KC-10 FE out...
lane: :usa2:

 

Here is the thread you seek. You just replace the fan blade only. The blades are angled the opposite direction. This mod helped my bike stay cooler.
http://vfrworld.com/forums/6th-generation-2002-2009/29785-vfr-fan-mod-vtr-fan-blade.html

But, I suspect the fan isn't coming on or you thermostat is bad.
http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/11331-thermostst-replacement.html

I like Engine Ice too, but it won't fix your problem without getting to the root cause.

Does the bike overheat all the time or just went moving slowly?

 

Thermostat opening is very obvious when looking down the filler cap. T-stat failure seems to be as chronic as R/R failure these day's.

 

I think you should try installing manual switch to turn the fan on whenever you want to.
I thought you should read this on Hawk fan.

"I have done this mod on my bike, and just been through an Aussie summer.
Here is what I found.
This mod works OK, and the cooling is better as long as you are moving foreward.
If you are stationary for any length of time, the cooling is actually worse than standard, because the fan is blowing air through the radiator that has been preheated by the headers and engiine.
I have fitted a manual override switch to mine and what I do is turn the fan on when the engine gets to about 90degC. A better solution would be to replace the thermo switch with a lower temp one, but I dont ride in traffic so its not an issue for me."

 

What temperature is the bike getting up to? I'm a new owner and my thermo seems to open up at 220. Riding on a hot day, when sitting after riding once it hits 220 it drops a few degrees and never goes over 220.

 

That temp is normal for VFR, Panic when it hit 235+ as for now just keep on riding

 

I have the same concerns. I'm going to order a switch from ebay that kicks in at 185F. I would be much more comfortable with that. Might also try water wetter as well. There are a few issues with the fan change that concern me right now.

 

The max I saw was 251 & then it died & I had to push it into a gas station. Luckily, it was only about 100 yards.

I haven't done any trouble shooting yet, that's my Sat morning project. I'm thinking it's the thermostat or the temp switch or both. I've been riding liquid cooled bikes for 25 years & I've never heard of one blowing up the fan motor.

No matter what the case, I am going to replace the t stat & switch just because there're cheap & easy to do. I will also drain & flush & replace with a fresh glass of Engine Ice.

KC-10 FE out...
lane: :usa2:

 

i'll see your 25 and raise ya 10. Seen this happen a bunch, and not just bikes.

Bike sits for awhile or never gets hot enough for the fan to kick in. Over time moisture gets into the cheesy sleeves acting as bushings used as cheap imitations for real ball bearings, then rust forms and ends up locking the fan shaft of the cheap low-torque-producing electrical devices they call motors. If you could get easy access to lubricate the bushings it might not be such a rotten shame...

Finally the bike gets ridden or temps get up high enough to trigger the fan circuit, but the locked rotor won't turn and the current in the windings heats it all up until all that high tech housing plastic used to save a few more nickels melts into a puddle of goo, fuses blow, sparks fly, wires burn, cursing and drinking escalates, court dates are ignored, money is spent and the cycle repeats.

 

here's you T-stat PN from Bikebandit
609940 @ a whopping $33.95
Now the whole fan assembly that's a different bird.
Bikebandit PN 607974 @ $194.23. That's just the motor.
The termo-switch also from Bikebandit
PN 642529 @ $45.63

I'm guessing with some creative searching one could come up with an alternative to the factory fan that flows more air without blowing it from the engine side. I'll search around if someone can give me dimensions as I'm about 8000 miles from my Viffer, LOL...

 

I trouble shooted my bike today. I have no doubt my thermostat is bad. Today, I couldn't get the bike to heat up for anything. I let it run (in direct sunlight) for 30 min & the temp never went above 180f. I shut the bike off, perplexed, & read my MX manual. It said engine operating at low temps = t stat stuck open. I started it up & ran it around the neighborhood for 15 min. Out of no where, the temp shot from 180 to 200 in less than 5 sec. After that, it started climbing. At 220F, the fan started & stopped & started & stopped. My neighbor & I jumped the fan with a battery & it works just fine.

So, I have a bad thermostat & intermittent thermo switch. I will replace both. I have a local "source" I get my parts from. T Stat, O Ring & Thermo Switch = $52

I also ordered the VFRness from WIREMYBIKE & need to clean/inspect my switch pods.

KC-10 FE out...
lane: :usa2:

 

KC
You have likely covered this but just thought I'd mention it anyway.
You could get similar symptoms if your coolant level is low. The temperature sensor I believe is in the upper corner of the radiator. While parked it may not even be wet. Hence the more or less constant temperature. 180 is not too far from the norm. When driving the coolant will move around and change levels as you bank for corners and brake or accelerate. The coolant level then contacts the temp sensor intermittently and could cause erratic displays and possibly affect the fan operation. Hope this may help.

 

Sounds to me like that thermostat got stuck in the wide open position when the bike overheated and the safety switch shut off the bike. Then it finally popped closed after a few cycles. When you drain the coolant check for debris in the coolant. A piece of deteriorating hose or other debris could have gotten lodged in the thermostat.
I know yours is a 5th gen and I only have a service manual for a 6th. gen so not sure how much crosses over.
Heat some water and check your thermostat with a thermometer. 6th. gen will start to open at 176-183 deg. F. Fully open (8mm or 0.3 in. open) at 203 Deg. F. If it is open at room temp it is shot.

At 33 bucks I would probably replace it anyway once I had it out but I would heat the new one and test it before I put it back in.

Hopefully someone can confirm if the 5th. and 6th. gens share the same numbers.

 

I replaced my thermostat today.

I would like to meet the guy who designed the thermostat hose & housing layout. Then I would like to stab him in the balls with a rusty ice pick. What takes less than 10 min on a car takes about 4 hours when done by two experienced mechanics. There are simply not enough words to describe how much a pain in the ass this was.

KC-10 FE out...
lane: :usa2:

 

A tired old rad cap that won't hold pressure is another possible cause of overheating and is cheap to replace.

 

OK, the bike is back together & test driven. Cooling is back to normal & wouldn't go over 180 on the road. When sitting in my driveway, the fan comes on exactly at 220 & the temp started falling almost immediately. While a complete & utter pain in the ass, the procedure was worthwhile. It IS NOT as easy process so if you don't know your way around your bike & tools, DO NOT attempt this without help. For anyone who runs Engine Ice, the old stuff was significantly discolored & had a strange odor so I guess it breaks down over time. It is quite pricey compared to aluminium safe coolant, but I think the EI is worth the cash. In traffic my bike rarely gets above 200f. I ordered a new radiator cap from my local parts guy for the extra piece of mind.

I also installed the VFRness from http://www.wiremybike.com/product_i...d=270&osCsid=9f8e2bc5f8b5989c6224722290b837df . It's an extremely well made, heavy duty piece of equipment. If it does what it's advertised to do, it was well worth the $45. I ordered a new RR from Josh as well just to have it on hand. He says the ones he sells make the OEM one look like a POS. I get the prescribed 14.7 at 5000 rpm & 13.8 at idle.

Finally, when the bike was torn apart, I noticed a pretty significant carbon build-up on the valves in all 4 cylinders. So, anyone have a good sugestion on what to use to clean them up? I run (90% of the time) name brand gas & almost never let the bike sit for longer than 2 or 3 days during the riding season. I run whatever brand of FI cleaner about 4 times a year but I guess isn't cutting it. My neighbor says to run a tank of 50/50 Cam 2 & normal. I was thinking of running a tank of gas with double the recommended dose of Seafoam. Any thoughts?

KC-10 FE out...
lane: :usa2:

 

Try Amsoil PI Performance improver.They claim it is outstanding for combustion chamber deposits, intake valve deposits, port fuel injector deposits. About 12 bucks a bottle. Check it out at AMSOIL - Synthetic Oil, Motor and Engine Oil, Lubricants, Air Filters, Oil Filters and Greases

 

I really don't want to start another overheating thread so I'll ask this here. Yesterday I took the Y2K on a spirited ride to the shop. Outside temperature was 98 degrees (a pleasant balmy Texas July day). Temp gauge went to 190 and bopped back and forth between 187 and 192. I didn't sit in traffic much but the gauge did read 210 at some point during slower riding. My rad fan doesn't come on until 220 so I was not so worried. You'll said it should hold at 180 while underway. Am I missing something? Bad T-stat? The temperature that these bikes run are the only thing that freaks me out about them.

 

Big Jim
Riding in the hot weather the temperature can climb to 225 at low speed and the fan will kick in at 220. No need to be alarm.
Keep an eye on the temperature and panic when it reach 235

 

Good to know. This is the first time I have had the bike active in what I would call hot weather conditions. I know that all the signs point to a properly functioning cooing system but I am a cranked up worrier at heart. That temp gauge with a 40 degree fluctuation does not help sooth my fears.