95 VFR Maintenance - Need Advice

Hey Folks,

Looking for some opinions from this knowledgeable community. I bought my 95 VFR new (um, back in 1995), and put on about 8,000 miles before life interfered with my hobby. For about 5-7 years (say 2004-2011), I'd take it out once or twice a year. I was pretty bad on maintenance, (esp. not winterizing). I'm pretty sure the only 'true' maintenance was the 600 mile break-in service, which would have been back in '95. I may have changed the oil/filter once.

This year I find myself with more time available, and I'd like to get the bike back 'into shape'. With a new battery, she started right up, and, at least on the surface, is running A-Ok. But I know that there's more beneath the surface. Here's what I've done so far:

- Change Oil and Filter
- Drain and replace coolant
- Change out sparkplugs
- Clean and lube chain
- Ordered new tires (Michelin Pilot Road 2's will be installed tomorrow by dealer)

Observations: Oil was 'mucky', coolant looked good, 3 out of 4 sparkplugs had some amount of oil on them (from the threads down).

SUBJECTIVELY - I feel like there's some level of power loss across the entire range; granted, it's been a while, and perhaps my memory is not perfect, and the acceleration is strong, but not as strong as I recall. There's no noticeable hesitation, and she's running smooth throughout the range, sounds fine, just seems a little more sluggish than before.

Note: The maintenance performed above above represents about the limits of my mechanical skills; anything else (except perhaps air filter change) I'd probably leave to a professional.

MY QUESTIONS
1) What additional maintenance would you recommend?
2) Are there any relatively simple or inexpensive ways to determine if she is indeed operating at lower than spec. hp/torque? (the bike will be in the shop tomorrow for the tire installations, so I have the opportunity to ask them to perform some other checks).


ADDITIONAL Notes:
- Planning on dropping some Sea Foam in, since my winterizing was so poor
- Was thinking that brake and clutch fluid should be replaced (though both appear proper color). Mechanic suggested replacing rubber brake and clutch lines w/stainless steel, but said he'd have to order a kit. Wait to change brake fluid until new lines?
- Was thinking of replacing air filter. Necessary? If so, K&N, other, foam, cotton? (I know little about this).

The amount of time - and cost - almost makes buying a new(er) bike attractive - but to be honest, I haven't seen anything - at least on paper - that appeals to me in the way my 95 VFR does.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

 

After prolonged storage, an air filter inspection should be top of your list as a wide variety of small rodentia have discovered that airboxes make secure, comfy nests and a perfect place to store food.

 

drain, flush and replace both lots of hydraulic fluid; your clutch and brakes are running on part water at the moment

 

Thanks. Having never bled brake or clutch lines, I need to clarify:

"---- You may find that being 17 years old, the lines need to be replaced anyway. " How will I know if this is the case? Physical deterioration/cracking, etc., or something less obvious?

Are you suggesting that I can essentially do a 'partial change' by using the turkey baster method, then do the speed-bleeder install and bleed at a later time? Or would I have to perform the bleed no matter what when replacing the fluid?

Thanks!

 

Steel-braided clutch lines seem like a waste of money on new or older bikes, imo.

 

All filters should be replaced as they are odds on to fail (fall to pieces)
Fuel should be replaced & a bottle of carb conditioner (or such like) would not hurt to clean through the jets etc.
Brakes have already been covered as above posts, but I would replace the lines as well as the OE ones have clearly seen better days so why not replace with SS lines and bleed the system at that time.
Later on the fork oil could do with changing as well.

I would certainly check the earth connections / battery etc.

 

Thanks all! Maintenance (or at least as much as I'm capable of performing) is complete. It was my first time doing a brake/clutch bleed and everything went well. Both fluids were discolored, but it was the clutch that was really nasty - very gunky and there were a lot of particles in the reservoir. Couldn't really tell the difference in the brakes afterwords, but the clutch action was definitely smoother.

I'm running Sea Foam through a 2nd tank now, spray-cleaned the carbs (while attached) when I changed the air filter. I replaced the stock filter with a K&N OEM replacement. Surprisingly the stock filter didn't look too bad.

One regret - when I changed the air filter, I disassembled and examined the 'sub-air filter'. It crumbled, and some of it is gone now, the rest of it in pretty bad shape. Had the bike not been disassembled, I probabably would have gone out and purchased some foam-like material to replace it with, but alas, I simply re-assembled, hoping that this is not a critical component.

 

Wow! a gem with the original owner, how does this happen? Good to hear you had the fore thought to keep it close. I agree on all the above if and when you do, the SS Lines on the front is a good upgrade, most kits will also include the rear, even though it's a tad much for the rear, might as well, as far as what kind of feel you get goes, Big difference on the fronts. Yea Seafoam ain't a bad thing all though one must be ready to get another set of plugs. Hows that Chain looking? a biggie here is how was it stored? good and dry not much moisture stirring up trouble? things in that area that come to mind are the electrical connections especially the one that plugs into the RR. Front fork fluid should be high on the list. You might look into a rear shock, they where shot after 5K add age and a Oh My goes through my mind. How many miles on this? 16k is the first valve looking at. from there (90% + really don't need much attention after that. Mine at 32k where all still in their limits. Oil changes are a big deal with this motor, not that it's an over kill but on the norm every 3-4K one should have this done at the least. these VFR are pretty bullet proof if taken care of I have seen em with over 100k on the clock and still going strong and looking quite nice. I've also seen em with less than 10K and look like they've been left for dead, it's all in how you take care of your stuff. Another thing too check is hows the inside of the tank look? yea the air filter pre clean foam is nice, but really not all that necessary, if you don't have it no big deal. just for knowing sacks if you have the ability when you change your plugs do a compression test, be interesting to see what you have. All said and done, sounds like you have it in order, good to hear you're able to get out and enjoy a great VFR, LOL the best IMO.

 

You want to have a colour on the threads of the spark plugs, not oil, but a burnished grey/brown. This indicates a good heat range, I like to have around three to four threads from the hex shoulder.

I always change out the shite rubber lines with quality steel ones, you will notice the difference right away and is money well spent! I went and did the clutch line a few years ago, which is more preventive maintenance than a feel issue. Rear brake still has original rubber line and had original pads up to that point (not much on rear brakes)

 

Only one of the four plugs had this appearance; the other 3 had oil on them. But the bike had been in storage. Since I replaced the plugs a few weeks ago, I haven't re-inspected them. Do you think I should again (it's kind of a pain)? Was the oil indicative of a potential problem, or is that something that could happen coming out of storage (with old oil, no gas conditioning, no winterizing, etc.)?

 

Sea Foam- Are you suggesting that the use of Sea Foam might result in having to change the plugs, or are you suggesting that Sea Foam simply may not be sufficient, and that a plug change is also necessary? I ask b/c I already changed the plugs, THEN started using SF.

Electrical - Not sure how to gauge status of electical components; my method for them has been, "if it starts and runs, electrical is probably OK"

Front Fork Fluid - I've read mixed advice on this forum; some folks suggest that the fork fluid can go 40K miles +; I have 8,500 miles, even though the bike's 17 years old. I'd prefer not to have to figure out how to suspend the bike and remove the wheels if I can, so I'm thinking I'll skip this unless someone can convince me otherwise.

Thanks!