No power...dead batter?

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by VFRfrom818, May 8, 2012.

  1. VFRfrom818

    VFRfrom818 New Member

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    So today I decide to go out and grab a bite for lunch. I jump on my motorcycle and take off. When I get out of the burger joint, my bike won't start.! I push "start" but all I hear is what sounds like a dead battery! WTF??? There was no indication the battery was even going dead.

    I push start the bike and she turns on. At a red light, she shuts off. Crap! I push her into a gas station. A couple of guys help me push start her and I'm off....about a mile up the road, she starts to studder....and then she shuts off. Dead.

    I call AAA and get towed home. Crap! I pulled the battery out and check the water level. It is low, but could it be anything else? There was no idication the battery was going dead. I am currently charging up the battery to see if it will hold a charge. Let's see what happens.

    I'm hoping it's something simple as just a low or dead battery.
     


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  2. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    Possible the battery is just toast and won't hold a charge.

    But then there's the ever popular R/R failure. If you're not familiar with it, speak up and we can explain. Or just do a search.

    If you are familiar with the R/R, then you know where, what, and how to check.

    Give us a few more details. What year bike? How many miles? How old is the current battery? Any other "symptoms"?

    Fingers crossed its just a battery.
     


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  3. VFRfrom818

    VFRfrom818 New Member

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    Hi and thanks for the reply.

    The bike is a 1986 VFR 700. I just bought the bike a week ago, so I have no idea how old the battery is. She has 56K miles and was running just fine. No start up issues. Like I mentioned, there was no indication the battery was dying out. When I turn the key, the dash lights come on...very dim, but the do light, so there is some power flowing thru the system. Just seem strange that the it would just die out like that.

    I have read a bit on the R/R problems, but not too sure what the symptoms are. Is the R/R problem with all VFR's or just certain years? About how much does a new R/R cost?

    Thanks.
     


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  4. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    Have you inspected the three pin connector from the stator to the regulator?
     


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  5. VFRfrom818

    VFRfrom818 New Member

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    Ok, so I charged up the battery, put it back into the bike and she started up. It took a few tries, but she is running. All lights and dash lights are bright.

    So if the R/R was damaged, would the bike not start even with a good battery?

    I also check the R/R for heat and it got hot with in 2 minutes of starting the bike. Really hot. "I could not touch it hot".

    I'm guessing it's the original one that come with the bike.
     


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  6. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    keep inspecting the other connectors you were told to check
     


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  7. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Sorry for your electrical troubles: Like everybody says check for burnt electrical connections. Then, go through this starting point list. You will need a multimeter too.
    Steps:
    - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or simular to load test. -- Good? Bad?
    - With good battery fire it up.
    These are R/R quick checks--- do first..
    --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages Start it up and warm it up. -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? Whats the nunbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs.
    - Check stator
    - 1. pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. Whats the numbers? Should be less than 1.0 ohms.
    - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity.
    - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 20ish and climb 50ish and more.
    4. Repeat hot.

    If you end up needing to dig deeper look at this chart...
    http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

    -- Do all this stuff and then come back and tell us what you got.....
     


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  8. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    Like everyone else said above, you'll need to check a few things. Go through the wiring, especially from the R/R and the stator. But I'll try to answer your questions, and throw in a few comments.

    1. If it is, indeed, the original R/R, you're probably on borrowed time.

    2. When you replaced the battery, even if your R/R was fried, you have plenty of new juice in that batter (to start with). However, you will find that it will soon be going dead if the R/R is not doing its job correctly. So its important to do what Mello Dude said and check the voltage and ohms.

    3. If your R/R is too hot to even touch, that's bad news. I can run my bike for an hour, put a full load on the electrical system, and I can still touch my R/R.

    4. Symptoms vary - on newer bikes its easier to tell because they have the F/I light that will throw codes. I'm not familiar enough with yours. But the fact that you went from a "perfectly fine" battery to one that died 3 times in the course of a day could be a symptom.

    5. The R/R was an issue with most, but I don't know about all.

    6. A new one would run you about $110 to $150. Look around. Check Wire My Bike If you have to buy one, make sure its at least the MOSFET type. (research Google, or go to wiremybike as mentioned above. It'll explain).
     


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  9. VFRfrom818

    VFRfrom818 New Member

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    You guys are great.! Thanks.! I will check all this stuff when I get home. Yesteday, I called the guy who sold me the bike and asked him about the battery. He tells me it's no more than a few months old and that he always kept the bike hooked up to a battery tender. Perhaps the R/R has been damaged for some time, but keeping it on a tender has been keeping the batter alive?

    I don't mind paying the $150 if it means a good and reliable R/R. I'm a true believer in "you get what you pay for", so if I have to pay a little more for a better quality products, so be it.

    BTW...I found this on youtube. Your thoughts please.

    R&R'ing a VFR's dead R&R part 1 - YouTube
     


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  10. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    If the battery is only a few months old, and the owner was diligent about trickle charging, it sounds like you're the next contestant on "Replace your Rectifier".

    I'm not trying to sell the guy at wiremybike - its your call. But, he's a member on this forum as well as the other VFR forum. He knows his shit when it comes to replacing the R/R on these bikes, he's super friendly and helpful, and his prices are very reasonable. If you add in the VFRness (designed by the guy at wiremybike), you're looking at about $190, but you will probably never have to worry about it again.

    The VFRness forms a "T" between the battery/regulator connections, and the single 30amp fuse gets replaced by 2 twenty amp fuses. If you spring for the VFRness along with the R/R, all you need to technically do is plug and play. Without the VFRness, I think most of us would strongly recommend you solder all the connections, especially the ones from the stator to the R/R. (Don't use crimps or try to just twist and tape; you'll have problems). I soldered my connections even with the VFRness. Not taking any chances!

    The guy in the video makes some good points. I don't know if the heat sink plate he designed is necessary, but it certainly can't hurt.
     


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  11. Dukiedook

    Dukiedook New Member

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    You could possibly have a crapped cell also, check your voltages at the battery after a full charge on a motorcycle charger, check battery voltages at different RPMs- 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000.
    And check the connections, test the stator and rectifier with a voltmeter.
     


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  12. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Joshua at wiremybike is a standup guy, I have purchased stuff from him myself.

    Since your bike is older -
    Lemme throw out there a couple more alternates---
    Check out this FH020AA kit, I just helped my neighbor that has a '84 GS1150E install one on his ride. Worked out fine
    Roadstercycle-Index

    If you dont mind tinkering another alternate is the Compufire R/R. Its a series switching design in that it switches on only when power demands it. It saves wear and tear on the stator. I became intriqued with the idea from reading about it on a Triumph forum.

    Compu-fire series # 55402 – last part on the list
    link
    http://www.chrome-addiction.com/g-compu-fire-40a-3-phase-charging-systems-46974.php

    Install thread on a 5th gen
    link
    http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/...p-up-on-a-5th-gen-finally/page__fromsearch__1

    A caveat – As a Harley part, Compufire with not back a warrantee if you install it on a Honda. (Just being upfront about it. )
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2012


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  13. VFRfrom818

    VFRfrom818 New Member

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    I called the local Honda service dept and the service manager told me the part was no longer sold thru Honda, but offered to a source and offered to check it for free. I will charge up the battery and ride it over today. He also mentioned if it's not the R/R, it could be a faulty stator.

    Let's see what happens. Thanks again guys
     


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  14. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Did I miss where you reported back on the status of the stator electrical connector and the starter relay electrical connector and the R/R electrical connector?
     


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  15. VFRfrom818

    VFRfrom818 New Member

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    No, just havn't had the time to stop at a hardware stare and pick up an electrical meter. Since the dealer offered to do it for free, I figured I would jump on it.

    I will try and take notes and report back.
     


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  16. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    ah. well good deal then.

    Just remember that if you find melted or burned up electrical connectors, it does not mean that you have bad components. Poor connections at the connector create heat and melt the connector causing the bike not to charge. Sometimes intermittently. If nothing shorted out, your components could be just fine and you only need new connections made.

    Good luck
     


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  17. VFRfrom818

    VFRfrom818 New Member

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    Hey, would you guys recommend this one from Rick's? I like the idea of being able to just pull it out of the box and plug it in.

    Rick's Motorsport Electrics
     


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  18. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    Yes. Its the same one you get from Joshua at wiremybike.

    You still need to check your wiring, especially to and from the stator and R/R. You can put the best R/R "ever" in there. if you're wires are fucked, so are you.
     


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  19. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    *********************


    Owning a multimeter and battery charger are mandatory prerequisites to ownership of ANY motorcycle but Hondas especially and newer Hondas the most.

    IMG_0898 jpg.JPG IMG_0907 jpg.jpg

    The amazing thing about the melted plug is that the bike was still charging !!
     


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  20. Apittslife

    Apittslife New Member

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    Thanks Squirrel, :thumbsup:
    I know what I am doing tomorrow, when I get a spare moment! :tongue: (Pulling side cover off my bike to see if my connectors for the charging system are good)
     


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