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Fork Oil Change Interval

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Kintama, May 7, 2012.

  1. Kintama

    Kintama New Member

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    Hi All---I have an 91 VFR with about 50k miles. Not sure how well it's been taken care of. The front forks seem to dive a lot during braking. Do you think it would help to change the fork oil? I don't see any change interval listed in the service manual. You often do you all change fork oil?

    I see to recall my old Seca 400 had a specific interval at which it should be changed.
     


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  2. JTC

    JTC New Member

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    Oh finally, an easy one... I've never heard of a fork seal that will outlast the oil in the fork, so if/when your seal/s start leaking, change the oil at that point.
     


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  3. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    At 22 years old and 50k I would change every fluid just so you have a base line for the whole bike.
     


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  4. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    my 91 went 70,000 on the original fork seals, they blew when i got ambitious and changed the oil (honda was thoughtful and provided drain plugs back then) and used Honda fork oil / 5 weight. Well, after that the seals started weeping.

    AnywhooO, when I did take apart the forks it was nasty as shit in the tubes! A can of parts cleaner in each stanchion was in order.

    Food for thought, I swear by Bell-Ray 7 weight fork oil (shameless plug?? Who cares) I gots Race Tech gold valves with their fork springs since about 1995.
     


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  5. Kintama

    Kintama New Member

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    Yeah, so far every fluid and filter has been replaced, except for fork oil. I have the service manual but it doesn't show how to do it. Can you just drain the oil from the bottom and remove the fork cap bolt and pour in new oil? Or will you need to prop up the front of the bike somehow?
     


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  6. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    The fork fluid should be changed every 2-3 seasons or 15k miles. Most people don't do this, and I can tell pretty easily when servicing forks if its ever been done before. If the outside of the forks are kept clean the seals will last 15+ years without any problems.
     


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  7. Kintama

    Kintama New Member

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    OK...can you give a quick run down on how to do it?
     


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  8. John451

    John451 Member

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    I've heard some say they change their Fork oil ever 12,000kms ( 8,500miles ), mine is changed every 20,000kms ( 12,500 miles ) have found Motrex Racing 7.5 to suit me best and notice an improvment immediately especially over small ripply bumps. Haven't had to change seals yet after 39,000miles.

    [​IMG]
     


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  9. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    I wipe the mug and road grime off my fork tubes after every ride, kinda like doing tyre pressure checks. Tyre pressure when their cold and wiping off ded-insect bastards...helps to zap past inconsiderate trucks with gravel loads...
     


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  10. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    I had an '82 Seca 400! Small world!
     


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  11. Kintama

    Kintama New Member

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    Cool. Can you remember how you changed the fork oil?
     


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  12. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    pull the brakes, pull the wheel, pull the drainplug

    reinstall the drainplug, pull the top cap, reinstall the correct amount of fluid per the factory service manual.

    only problem with this method is that you don't get the years of gook cleaned out unless you completely disassemble the front end. But fresh fluid is better than old and it depends on what quality of job you want to accomplish.

    If you're a normal sized person, the bike could likely benefit from $130 in new front springs sized appropriately for your weight. The bike was dreadfully under-sprung from the factory.
     


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  13. Kintama

    Kintama New Member

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    Thanks. Any suggestions for holding the bike up with the front wheel off? It doesn't have a center stand.
     


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  14. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    garage rafters and straps?
     


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  15. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    And you accused me of being a Red-Neck Mechanic...:tongue: wish to fuck I could go to Reg's but can't and dont make fun of me either!!!.

    I got a Handy Lift, Don't be a H8TR either...
     


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  16. OOTV

    OOTV Member

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  17. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    You could try getting your bike up in a manner similar to what i use on my '86 700........

    You need a wall to VERY slightly lean against for some stability, so the distance between the bike and the wall is important as you begin.

    Sissor jack went under the mounting area for the centerstand, then blocks placed under the engine as the rear wheel was lifted. After you lower the jack some small amount-- if the heights of jack and engine blocks are adjusted right-- the front end should come up enough for easy removal of either wheel.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 10, 2012


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  18. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    IMG_0360.jpg IMG_0318.jpg IMG_0305.jpg

    more improvised stand photos...
     


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  19. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    My friends old 87 CBR600 has a bad spongey fork issue. We tried draining the fluid and adding a headier weight but it's stil lthe same.

    The bloody thing dives like crazy!
     


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  20. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    $130 for the right springs and it will feel like a completely different bike. Am no suspension expert but my limited experience and understanding would be that diving is a factor of the springs.

    Damping of the bumps and cracks in the road along with how quickly the suspension rebounds to neutral is controlled by valving and oil viscosity.
     


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