Disabling linked braking/braided line conversion and a few other odd quesstions

Sorry about the thread dig here but I have a query.

I have read all the threads branching from this one and would like to know if it is, in practice, possible to "delink" a 5th gen by using...

Front: 2 hoses from a double banjo at the front brake master to each calliper. Two short "bridging" hoses on both left and right callipers all with double banjo's (apart from the lowest piston) to "tie" the pistons together?

Left fork master: Stosh's pin trick, or, block with bleed nipple or something like that?

Rear master: One long line to the calliper and two short "bridging" lines to "tie" the pistons together?

While I'm being confusing I may as well throw this out there. Would it be, in practice, possible to run lines from the left fork master output to the centre pistons on left and right callipers essentially combining the front brakes together?

What a head f*%k!!!

Cheers, Ben.

 

Pretty sure your right tink, with no way to regulate the pressure from the left fork master any front brake application would probably just lock up the front.

Cheers for the pics mello dude, are they of a 5th gen?

The question still remains, can you use a series of link hoses to make the front brakes just the front brakes?
Also, would it be unsafe to block the lower fork master somehow instead of gutting it and installing some sort of solid insert?

 

Here's how to do the calipers so that only one hose is required per caliper. You need a bolt to blank off the secondary hose connections & a pair of hoses for the front, for the VFR800 5th gen this should be 1 x 680mm & 1 x 740mm long, plus a double banjo bolt to fit them to the front master cylinder. You can do the same to the rear caliper & use the existing rear master hose & delete all the linked brake stuff.

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/2057/caliperfix.jpg

Have fun.

Honda CBS DCBS delink de-link unlink.

 

Yep & a CBR600F4+i (99-04) master cylinder is just the right size on the front & some people have just kept the VFR one & get a little more lever movement, but more power because of the ratio's your mileage may vary !

 

Rather than all that work, and expense as trashed as that bike sounds, I'd be looking to see if the frame is bent.

 

Hi There
I'm not going to tell you how to de-link your brake... I just have to ask you and all like you WHY? I've been riding for 55 years. I've ridden enduros and held an expert WERA roadracing license. I have 2 5th gen. VFRs, a VTR 1000, an ST3 Ducati, 2 BMWs and an SV650. The VFR is the onle you can't lock up the rear brake on... the brakes are just fine the way they are. Do you really think you can out-engineer one of the best bikes in the world by unhooking the factory brake system? All you're doing is creating a huge plumbing problem for your self. If you're smart, leave them alone.

I hope someone can tell me what the up side is. BTW, the VFR800 is one of the shortest stopping bikes in the world - check out Motorcycle Consumer News.

 

Not so much the upside but one of those "it can be done" things. Sort of like climbing Mt. Everest in cutoffs and flipflops or really dumb shit like texting at the ton..

 

Linked brakes should be re-named LBB ie, Lame Brain Brakes...I have club racing under my belt as well as riding pretty much everything under the sun and dont care for any of that crap. Its all personal though, thats the point. If someone wants to think they are safer on that style bike, more power to them.

Linked brakes were spawned me thinks from some car think engineers that are applying car logic (four-wheels) to motorcycles. Plain and simple, you operate front/rear brakes independantly during any and I repeat any braking situation. Why would I want a computer or servo or what ever making a desision to apply a little front brake when I am negotiating a U-turn at a petrol station with only rear brake? You get the idea, its BS IMHO.

Wow, 55 years of riding on two wheels? thats a long time. How many miles you got under your belt? Whats it like riding around DE? Does it demand that your brain not be disconnected from your body? I only know my neighbor hails from that state as well as George Thorogood. :evil:

 

Side note: Saw some crazy shit on the tele regarding all these sods that are going to summit on Everest. There used to be a helicopter that would rescue a few people. Now they are booked up. Ten years ago I had a whirly-bird ride and it cost 5000 quid, the cost was covered by the county though, so YOuRs Truly, didnt have to pop for the price.

QUESTION: How much would a helicopter ride cost back down to base camp or where-eva they could give you life saving medical help? (Hint, Whats ur life worth?) NOT HIGH-JACKING this thread either :tongue:

 

I agree that club racing is better under the sun. Track days too.

 

I will state again: its your bike. All I want is to provide the right information so that you can make an informed decision.

Not to offend those that actually have looked at and read the function descriptions as well as the physical setup, but there is no computer in the linked breaking setup. At slow speeds like in a gas station the linked breaks do not actually work as they rely on the kenetic energy of your bikes inertia to make the application when and if you have any breaking effort applied. If your going too slow to have the energy to make the application then it just doesnt. It "knows" this by using a pressure/flow orface in the linked master cylinder (on/in the caliper that is making the breaking effort). The pressure only builds to the point of energy input, so if your going slow, you wont be breaking hard enough to input enough energy to cause the linked break cylinder to apply effort and since it only applies one cylinder of three (one of six on front breaks) the amount you would see under even normal breaking is between 15% and 33% depending on the break used (though one would assume you would use both simultaneously). It will put the pads against the rotor, but its not pressing hard enough to build the heat required to stop. The only way to build the heat on a friction break is to modify the friction coefficent, we do this by adding pressure because the pads and rotor have a set friction coefficent that does not change (under normal conditions).

IMOO:
Unless your drifting your bike around a race track then there is no real savings in weight or ridability by delinking, you would do better on a de-pair, evap scrap and center stand removal. About 15lbs savings vs about 1lbs on a delink (giving that you will remove the unused piping).

If your just trying to get the same feel as your old/other bikes breaks, do as many (myself included) have done. Just learn to ride with it and you will most likely never be happy with seperate breakes.

Do as you want but a little mechanical engineering knowledge would certianly help you make a good informed decision.

 

Thanks tink,

It's nice to be thanked every once in a while.

BTW Im drinking beer too, I just havent had as much yet

 

so back to the whole clutch line switch... (sorry for any thread jacking the might happen >_<) but would the rc30 kit fit on a '85 vf700f?