Coolant Conversion to Engine-Ice Questions

Many thanks to KC-10 FE and all who contributed to his coolant change “how to” thread. I’m going to flush and change the coolant on my stock 98 w/18.5k miles. I hope to get some feedback from those who use Engine-Ice, and have some history with it, before converting. I started this new thread because I didn’t think I could get much visibility at the end of a KC’s 3 year old original.

My coolant system operates normally, as I understand it (with e/g green coolant). When it’s warmed up and running at normal speeds, the temps are mid/upper 170’s. In stop/go, lots of idle, it gets up to around 225. I would like to lower the high temp range. Not a track day concern, most of my riding is around town, highways.

I’m considering converting to Engine-Ice; even though I don’t quite understand how it runs cooler, with coolant flow controlled by the same temperature rated thermostat and the fan activated by the same temp sensor. Maybe the Engine-Ice would take a little longer to get to operating temp, and maybe reach the upper range more slowly (less frequently), but it should still operate in the temperature ranges as controlled by the devices.

At any rate, here are my questions to Engine-Ice users:
1.) Any of you long term users have any warnings or reservations about the engine ice conversion?
2.) Engine Ice is pre-mixed with De-Ionized water (not distilled). I understand the engine-ice can’t have any residual e/g green coolant in the system. Should we be flushing with DI water? Will some residual distilled water impact the Engine-Ice?
3.) Does the Engine-Ice coolant & antifreeze have similar life span to e/g green coolant? Do you test the gravity with the hydrometer and same table shown in the VFR manual?

Thanks to all, BAM

 

Engine -Ice is like Water Wetter as they do the same thing. When water/glycol mix comes in contact with metal it will have tiny tiny air bubbles between the metal and liquid. This makes heat transfer to the coolant less. The E-I/WW lessens the air bubbles for more heat transfer to coolant. The reason you don't use anti-freeze with is because the extra heat that is extracted from the engine remains in the glycol and is harder to remove(cool). Water by itself is the best for heat transfer but has a boiling point of 212*. The gylcol/anti-freeze does two things. It will raise the boiling point and keep the water from freezing. But also hold more heat than just water. Your radiator cap builds pressure in the cooling system which also raises the boiling point. So you don't have to worry about boil overs.

All you have to do is drain your system and put the E-I/WW in and I usually add some rust inhibitor with it. Even though EI/WW says it has rust inhibitor in it, I just want to make sure there is enough to keep the cooling system clean. When you drain your system there will be a little anti freeze in your engine. No big deal it's not enough to effect the cooling. If you really want to get as much out as you can. Then drain refill with water and go for a ride to make sure the thermostat opens and the extra anti freeze will mix and be more diluted. Drain again then fill with E-I/WW. That's all you need to do. Distilled water is fine.

You do not need to test the specific gravity like with anti freeze. The only reason that is done is to measure the amount of anti-freeze in your system. Which you won't have anymore. If you live in a winter climate then change back to anti freeze just for winter storage only. I've been doing this for years and all is fine with my cooling system, very clean.

 

Grey, Thanks for the reply and info on Engine-Ice. It sounds like the E-Ie has very little anti-freeze properties. I live in Ohio too. Although this year was mild, it usually gets to sub-zero at times in the winter.and the bike winters in an unheated garage. I doubt that I will want to redo the coolant flush/conversion twice a year. Since the cooling system seems to be working normally (if hotter than I prefer), I may have to go with a conventional E/G coolant mix. Thanks again. BAM

 

Before jumping on that wagon, it might be worth doing a bit more research from their website . . . they have this quote:

"What about performance? Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant ™ uses propylene glycol, which has been proven to eliminate water pump gasket and seal failures. It has also shown in high load, high stress conditions to reduce operating temperatures more than standard coolants. Individual results will vary. On average, most realize a temperature reduction of approximately 15-20oF."

Note that the base fluid, propylene glycol is implied as the mechanism that aids cooling. Prestone also makes a propylene glycol based coolant. Sierra coolant I believe is also PG based. I've been using Lowtox in my car for about 3 years - works fine - haven't gotten to putting in the VFR yet. I think I paid about $13 for a gallon of it . . . Compare that to what you would otherwise have to spend to get p.g. coolant . . . might be worth checking out.

If you want to use a hydrometer to check your coolant/water mix, you will need a different one than used with ethylene glycol - the two fluids have different densities and you will get the wrong answer. I picked up a Sierra hydrometer to check my car.

 

This is clipped from the engine ice web site:

Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is biodegradable, phosphate free & non-toxic; reduces operating race temperatures and effectively keeping boil over temperatures to 256 °F or less and freeze-up protection to -27° F.

Looks like EngineIce offers freeze protection.

Flush with distiller water. If you want to get most of the old coolant out, fill with water ride until it gets up to operating temp then let cool and. Make sure you hae distilled water in the over flow. As it will pull from the over flow when cooling.

Now, these bikes run hot its not a terrible thing. If your fan kicks on at 220 and the temp drops or at minimum stabilizes then you're good.

If you are not sold on engineice, you can just do a standard drain refill with 50/50 mix. Make sure what ever you use is silicate free. Many say safe for aluminum cooling systems but they are not silicate free. I just stick with the Honda stuff. I also throw in water wetter about 10 capfuls.

In theory Water wetter improves contact between the metal surfaces and the coolant by removing and or reducing the air bubbles. Thus "improving" cooling.

You are in Ohio so you still have a freeze issue, you don't want to go lower than a 45/55 antifreeze water mix.


Good luck with what ever you decide and please post back with updates.

 

A small drop of palmal dish soap is the same as water wetter

 

bitterpil: Thanks for the further info on Engine-Ice. -26 F should be sufficient for central OH. I had read some threads on Water Wetter, but discounted it due to lack of anti-freeze qualities. I like the idea of using it as an additive to the Honda coolant, which hopefully makes it a little better at conducting heat to & from the metal parts. Since the cooling system seems to be working as designed, maybe a more subtle, less costly change is a good way to go.

I have several maintenance chores I need to do this spring, and flush and change the coolant will be one of the latter. I’m going to monitor the operating temps and fan operation carefully before I do it, so I can accurately detect any changes in cooling performance. I’ll let you know what I do and how it works out.

Orion: Don’t know what palmal dish soap is. I thought that was a brand of smokes! But it wouldn't surprise me if some components of dish soap are in WW. It does change the texture of water a bit.

Thanks for info.

BAM