Disabling linked braking/braided line conversion and a few other odd quesstions

Hi everyone,

Are there any decent write-ups on disabling the linked braking system and installing braided lines on the VFR 5th Gen? Also, I'm looking for a cable clutch conversion kit... I found a company that makes them for the RC30 and I'm wondering if the clutch slave cylinder is the same on the VFR as it is on the RC30 motor? (VFR 750 I believe). Here's a link for anyone interested: Durbahn Shop - Engine & Chassis Cable clutch Conversions

And, I've seen a lot of talk about the weak electrical systems. Is there a comprehensive write-up on what preventative mods should be done to the bike? More grounds, swapped out R/R? I see only bits and pieces around the site, but nothing consolidated into one usable post. Seems like that would be a good idea if it hasn't been done yet...

Background: I bought a wrecked '01 VFR 800 from a buddy and have been putting it back together. I've been gathering parts over the winter and have nearly everything I need besides a set of tires. Here's a list of the parts I've got and need to install:

-One set of fairings from China ($500)
-Fairing bolt set ($45)
-Used instrument/gauge cluster ($162 - score!)
-Used headlight assembly ($225)
-Used spare wiring harness ($20 - score!)
-Set of five relays ($35)

The relays and wiring harness I got because while unloading the bike, the high beam relay got crunched in the brake rotor... totally my fault. So I ordered the harness to replace the crunched plug and obviously I needed the relay, too.

So, I noticed that the brakes need to be bled. And then I looked at the fucking labyrinth of a braking system the bike has and immediately had the impulse to simplify it while I have the bike apart -- and install braided lines. There's probably ten pounds of weight savings if I make it a conventional system!

I'm gonna work in the garage today so I'll take some pictures for you guys... I think I'm going to install the tail section of the bodywork to see how well it fits and let you guys know how good these Chinese fairings are.

 

Okay, I just read another thread here about disabling the linked braking system. Apparently that's a touchy subject around here and I don't want to step on anyone's toes. So, before you rip into me, forget I asked!

 

I guess I don't see the reasoning to disabling it. It works well, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

There is a great write up I believe is from mello dude on this subject.

 

Amazing write-up. Thanks for the link! At present, I think I will ride the bike stock for a while and decide if it's going to be one of my keepers. I tend to go through bikes quickly, but I've been hoping to find a bike I fall in love with and wish to keep for ten or more years. If my fifth gen. VFR captures my heart, I will probably attack the de-link and do a full suspension upgrade.

What did the revalving on the front SH forks run you, by the way?

 

Da-link -WHY----------------------. Anyone know where to pick up some braided lines for my 2002 just for the brakes up front ? dont want to spend 500 clams for the 9 lines right now . Thanks

 

to disable or not to disable is totaly up to you, just make sure you keep the parts so if you sell the bike the new owner has the option to restore the linked brakes.

Personaly, I wouldnt remove the link, however it doesnt hurt to remove the linked brakes, but under normal braking the linked brakes help by applying more stopping power evenly. There are many reasons to keep the brakes linked, the only reason to un link the brakes is to have the same feel and individual control that most sports bikes still have.

Now the part everybody hates hearing, you will need to change the front left caliper and the rear caliper, your oem ones have a cylinder that actuates a piston on the other caliper. you can not just block these off, you will have issues that may lead to a failure.

other than that, its your ride, do what you want, just be smart and do things right.

 

Tink, ya thats what I was thinkin about . Think theres a shop here in Simi off of easy st. that if you bring in what you want he will match them.

 

I'd never presume i was smarter than the guys at the factory or think they didn't know what they were doing and had not tested the system in the most scientific manner possible. No doubt the system is devilishly difficult to bleed, but that's not sufficient to scrap the whole system.

On the other hand, most of the designers of this stuff have probably never ridden a motorcycle !

 

Thanks for the link! Red lines... Yummy!

 

I could paint them for you tink

 

I completely removed the Linked Braking System from my '03. Simply stated I saw no advantage to it. (More accurately stated I didn't see "enough" of an advantage to it to warrant it's existence on my bike.)

I used HEL Performance braided stainless steel lines and fittings on my bike. At the front I used a dual banjo bolt and ran two lines,one to each brake caliper.



On the left brake caliper I used a small jumper line to tie the piston chambers in the caliper together. The picture distorts it Galenernest but there's actually about an inch or more of clearance between that small jumper line and the tire.
To make the caliper operate properly (so that it would no longer rotate toward the fork leg under braking) I gutted the secondary master cylinder in the left caliper mount.
I then had a hardened steel pin machined that runs the entire length of the caliper mount,threaded the end of it,liberally applied Red Loctite to those threads and installed the stock steel mount clevis.
I then cemented that hardened steel pin into the caliper mount with industrial strength epoxy. That pin will never move again,ever.
The left caliper mount is now a rigid solid structure,just like on any other normal motorcycle. (In case you were wondering,the little Green bolt you see hanging on the brake line in the pic is the bolt that secures the brake line to the front fender.)



At the rear I ran a dual banjo bolt with a pressure switch built into it and ran two lines to the brake caliper. The reason I had to use the banjo bolt with the pressure switch is because I switched to Sato Racing rearsets. By installing the Sato rearsets you eliminate the stock brake light switch and you now need a way to actuate the brake lights.



To be honest,I could've used one line from the master cylinder to the caliper and then used a small jumper line to tie the piston chambers together like I used at the front.
By using two lines at the rear it simply gave me an opportunity to add a bit more color to the bike. In case you haven't figured it out by now my bike is all about color. :heh:



Just a heads-up Galenernest,the LBS system on your 5th gen. is very different than the LBS system on my 6th gen. Here's a link to a thread in which I outlined the differences.

Click me.>>>>>http://vfrworld.com/forums/general-vfr-discussions/34274-slow-speed-maneuver-lbs.html

I use a transparent Yellow line on my clutch Tink. A complete set of Yellow brake and clutch lines would definitely look awesome on your 5.5 gen. build. :thumbsup:

 

Everytime I see Stosh's bike I feel like I just ate some mushrooms---sooooooooo many colors-Love it