1986 VFR700F2 Rollin' Rebuild

Wow the trapps are looking great. me want me want!

Did you just get the cans or get the whole system? I'm shopping for these...

 

I need to dig up a multimeter. The fan switch is supposedly good so we'll see. I plan on testing it thoroughly before riding it any distance.

Excellent. Thanks!

Just the slip on rear portion. Cans + connecting pipe.

 

I've got a full set of stock exhaust clamps all in great shape if anyone needs some. Nice score on the bike for sure.

 

Replaced the thermostat (w/ new gasket), radiator, fan, front spark plugs, and front valve cover gasket today. The thermostat had failed open, totally seized...


Not too bad, all things considered. Oil everywhere from the failed valve cover gasket. :frown:




Looking pretty clean. Gears, gears everywhere.




No excessive wear, which I'm pleased to see. No noticeable groves when passing a finger over the cams.




The rear valve cover gasket is back ordered. Not sure when it will show up.

Time to find a set of OEM throttle cables. Half the sites I try claim they're unavailable. We'll see.

Honda - 17910-ML7-920 - CABLE A, THROTTLE
Honda - 17920-ML7-000 - CABLE B, THROTTLE

I'm just waiting on parts now.

 

i think I've got an extra set if you need'um.

 

could the hanger on your muffler be moved to the outside of the footrest bracket?

 

Yeah looks awfully close to that hub.

 

I think it is an optical illusion... look at the picture above.. it looks like it is at the standard clearance... I did a double take as well but then saw the picture of the not so close up of the bike...

 

The rear valve cover gasket finally showed up, so that and new rear spark plugs are installed. The throttle cables turned out to be okay after all. A quick disassembly and cleaning fixed them right up. It's a good thing I have a service manual, since I messed up the cable routing after the first reinstall.

Unfortunately, I sheered off a bleeder bolt on one of the front calipers (I've never seen one so seized). The shitty extractor I bought then sheered off inside the bleeder bolt. Priceless.

I picked up a used set of calipers on Ebay and am waiting on parts to rebuild them. Any ideas on how to get the caliper pistons out? I've heard attaching an air compressor to the main brake line inlet will force them out?

I'll probably attempt to sync the carbs as well, since I've never actually done it (even though I own a gauge...)

When all this stuff is done, the bike should be "ready" for a test ride. We'll see. I'll post more pics shortly.

 

That'll do the trick. Just be careful - wrap a towel around the caliper before you hit the air. The piston will come shooting out if it's not seized up inside the bore. I've also heard of using a grease gun if you don't have a compressor. Same concept, just a different medium.

 

Add to your list a close inspection/regreasing or replacing of headset bearings as the OEMs are usually shot by 40,000 miles.

 

That's one of the first things I check on any bike I buy (since my first bike had completely shot ones). The clicking/jerky feedback you get from blown head bearings is rather scary. I honestly can't recall if the steering was off, considering I've put maybe 5 miles on it since purchase. I'll take another look when it's time for a test ride.

In other news, I ordered a (used) side under seat panel to replace the partially shattered one that came with the bike.

 

Brakes, brakes, brakes. Fresh rebuild w/ pads, piston seals, rubber grommets, bleeder screws, etc. Ignore the extra pieces, there are enough for 4 front calipers.


A fresh coat of paint. I tried polishing these, but the plastic was so faded it was a no-go. They aren't perfect but it's a huge improvement.


Everything but the brakes and plastics. Bonus cheapo turn signals installed (not great but they came with the bike). So close.

The brakes are back on now. I got half way through a brake bleed before I ran out of fluid. If it weren't raining all of tomorrow, I'd take it out for a test ride...

It shouldn't be long now.

 

A trick to restoring faded plastic, mix 2 parts paint thinner to 1 parts boiled linseed oil and rub in with a rag. Works great.

 

Interesting, how long does it last? And mix 2 parts to 2 parts? Isn't that 1:1, or just equal parts?

 

Looks good so far.

 

it does look good .. be careful... Spontaneous combustion of drying oils for wood sealing including linseed oil

 

Sorry, 1 part oil. I corrected it above. It actually lasts a long time. It's an old trick, not something I came up with. I've used it many times, however, with great success.

The spontaneous combustion won't happen on the plastic you just rubbed in with oil. It usually happens when you have a bunch of oil soaked rags glopped together. It's not just linseed oil rags but paint soaked rags, thinner and lacquer soaked rags, etc. Those rags should be placed into a metal container and the lid sealed (old paint cans work great for this) and dissposed of properly.

It is perfectly safe to use and apply the product.

 

We'll here it is, my "finished" 1986 VFR700! 100% complete and intact, not so much as a bolt, nut, or clip missing. No visible leaks, stumbles, or hesitation I can feel. I took it out for a test ride and it feels good, even on the highway. The power delivery is smooth and the Supertrapps are really (almost obnoxiously) loud.

The front brakes are a little weak even after a rebuild and flush. I'll keep at it.


The pictures are a little flattering (ye olde iPhone), but it turned out great overall.








The international buffet. If only I'd kept the Buell (sold it for the Ducati), it'd be a proper EU/US/JP trifecta.

This is pretty much /thread unless anything else comes up (which is surely will).

Thanks for all the tips and comments!

 

Well done! And a nice clean, orderly garage to boot! Can't you adjust the "volume" of your Supertrapps by adding or subtracting discs (I forget which way it goes...)