I have a quick question, I'm going to change my chain and sprockets over the winter just to be safe. I was just wondering what the wear indicators are besides the obvious stretch and visual tooth wear. I now have 32,000 miles on my stock chain. The stretch is within spec and I see virtually no wear on the rear sprocket, I haven't looked at the front yet. Also I don't see any 'kinking' on the links. Thanks in advance, Paul
Wow, thats alot of miles on a chain set. Grab one on the rivets of the chain in the middle of the rear sprocket and pull it rearward away from the sprocket. If you can see more than half of a sprocket tooth by doing this, its time for a chain.
The primary indicator is the 32k miles, you must lube the hell oot of that chain to squeak oot that many miles.
When you put the rear wheel in the air (either with your center stand or service stand) rotate your rear wheel to obtain one complete revolution with the chain, pick a point on it, master link, a nail polish spot (I got nail polish in my tool box and dont give a shate what yah say) and while your rotating the chain check the slack on it. Chains get tight spots, so a section thats lose will usually have a tight spot above it. Your kinda using your fingers pushing up on the center on the bottom of the chain as your feeler gauge, kinda difficult to illustrate. I am sure there is a tight spot there, flip side: when you adjust your chain, you adjust it on the tight spot. So this drill will come into play when you buy and install your new chain and do the maintenance on it. Lube when its HOT, adjust it when its cold. My bike I rarely adjust the chain tention on, I watch the lube situation though, if you touch your chain with your finger and it comes away with some grease on it, your good to go. Dry is bad. Them Scott-Oilers work too, you just gota be a Limey-Bastard to have one though :evil: Cheers and gud luck wit dah Ball and Chain. I got problems yah know.
Several issues here. First the main concept is that you cannot "see" chain wear on some chains unless a roller sleeve or chain side plate is broken or cracked. It is all about what they call "tolerance stack up" If you measured every chain roller and added up all the inconsistencies it would amount to more than you think. Even if the teeth on the sprockets are not sharp and pointed ,or curved, the base circle of the sprocket may not be concentric. Then if you add up the non concentric front sprocket, the non concentric rear sprocket, and all of the inconsistencies in all three of those parts it is a lot more than you can see with your eyes. You need a pair of vernier calipers to measure the base circle of the sprocket and compare 4 points on the base circle. But like TOE CUTTER said, at 32,000 miles you need to change all 3 parts. Chain ,front sprocket, and rear sprocket.
Does the nail polish serve double duty to make a quick fix in case you break a nail while servicing your chain?
The stock chain and sprockets hold up well and it will be hard to visually make out the wear. I'm willing to bet that you have tight spots on that chain. At 16k my original chain and sprocket were given the ok my local shop. I changed anyway. When I got the items off I could see the difference as well as several spots where the chain was binding.
Here's a easy and accurate way to check chain wear (off the bike), as the more a chain is worn, the greater amount it will bow when bent suideways as all the pin and roller wear adds up to slop and flex. Same type chain, newer at top and worn out at bottom. Try comparing your new chain with the one you've removed !
You tawking to ME?!?!? Yah, it helps when your absent minded cause you can mark various connections or other stuff with it, (not your finger nails) just dont let the wife catch you stealing her stuff ; )
Thanks to all. What would you consider a reasonable replacement interval? I realize that I am on the highside already. I clean my chain every 1,000 to 1,500 miles and lube it every 500 miles always hot with chain wax. More often if I get caught in the rain. I was planning on changing all 3 parts,sprockets and chain. I was always told to replace as a set. Thanks again, Paul
If well cared for 25k is not oot of the question with a stock or quality brand chain. Problem is that most motorcycle owners have a wicked chain lube allergy.
Thought I would bring this up since it hasn't been discussed. Chain brand. D.I.D. is probably the best out there, and often bring a premium price. I have an EK x-ring on my 99 and I think I've adjusted in once in the close to 10,000 miles I've had it on there. I think I paid a little over 100 dollars for it. The OEM chain was an RK (I don't know why the names are so similair) o-ring chain and the o ring seals didn't hold up and I had stiff links out the wazoo before the bike had 16,000 on it. Granted I bought the bike used and have no idea how well the previous owner cared for it. Whichever chain you choose, spring for the x-ring model as they seem to seal better than anything else out there.
