Replacement switches for VF1000F

I'm a new owner of a 1984 VF1000F and would like to replace the Old weathered and cracked switches on my new bike while it is torn apart but Honda says DISCONTINUED and NLA on both sides.

I seem to recall reading that perhaps the switches from a 1990 - 1997 could be used as replacements. Are these "plug and play" or do they require cutting/splicing etc to make them work??

Other question is will they fit easily onto the bars and will they integrate well? I ask because although there are some really nice components currently available they just don't/wouldn't look "right" on the older model.

Can anyone who might have made the "replacement" switch comment on what was involved and maybe post a pix or two of the finished result?


With thanks for any/all input


Ricardo

 

I have gen 5 on my gen 2, really would never notice. Will try to remember to snap a pic for you when I get home.

 

Thank you for the input

 

Modern switches have tiny wires and you may have to add a relay for the headlight (hi/lo just activate a relay while on your bike the headlight current run through the switch). On the right handlebar, I installed a 6th gen which was almost plug-and-play. I just swapped a pin in the connector but the cable was just the right length for cbr600f2 clipons, would be too short for vf1000f handles. Mechanically, you may have to drill a new small hole in the handle bar to locate the switch tab (that prevent it from turning around) which is not necessarily at the same position for all switches.

I later changed to cbr1000rr switch on the right (to fit with the radial master cylinder). I had to patch each wire. Honda wiring color code is quite constant though all those years.

Since the new switch wire harness was too short here what I did to rewire: I noted the block connector pin positions, extracted them all from the block, pull out the rubber envelop, did the same for both switches (the vf1000f and the new one). If you keep the vf1000f handlebars, the final length should be the same. Layout both harness side by side and tire wrap them near the switch and at the end of the shorter harness. To keep a soft and uniform harness, you spread the splices along the common section of both harnesses (one splice every two inches for example), trying to avoid the the section where the harness is bent. On the selected splice positions, cut the 2 wires (on from each switch) that will be soldered together with an overlap of 1/4 to 3/8". Insert shrink tube before soldering then solder, heat shrink the tube over the soldering, reinsert to rubber envelope, reinsert the pins in the block, test the switch operations with an ohmmeter. I should have taken picture to save all those words. Did that in 2007 or 2008 and no problem since then.

 

For reference, photos enclosed below of the right hand control from a '91 VFR750F.

I believe this control is a plug and play fit for the VF series. Good luck and let us know how you make out!