Alotta Symtoms, whats wrong with my bike?

Just cleaned my carbs and put everything back togethor. That fixed my bogging down after 1/4 throttle problem after finding out that the vacuum diaphrams werent sitting properly and the funnel air intake books in the airbox werent either! YAY!

SHE RUNS GREAT, IDLES GREAT BUT......

At high revs when I hold the throttle steady my bike seems to surge, Go fast then slow. Seems like the longer I ride the worse she runs and the more she starts popping. She also doesn't really have that much power and the fan kicks on and stays on even tho its very cold outside!!! When I got home she died at idle on me with no warning just very suddenly.

I do hear some slickity-clack nose coming from the motor at idle but is some normal?

Compression test came out good and I adjusted my valves recently.
Im not sure how to check the cam for wear but maybe I'm jumping the gun?

How do i know if I have that oil problemt that was commen for my year bike? 82 VF750S

What would you guys check first?

 

I'd check Craigslist first and find a newer bike............

 

WHY? Cant they all be fixed?

 

No problem add pics when you can! I'd like to see what worn cams in the V-4 look like! I appreciate your helpful advice, I'd really like to this get sucker working and it's all I got

Found a cool article with pics about the starter clutch problems on V-4's:
Starter Clutch

But what could make my bike surge or not have the power it should after most of my diagnostics checked out fine? What are the most commen problems that cause this?

 

Your motor is running lean! That's why its surging. It gets enough fuel to fire but not enough to make power. Real lean if it's getting hot enough to turn the fans on. If it gets to lean you could melt a hole in the piston/s. If you hear a noise like marbles rolling around or like a metallic taping sound when riding you could be so lean your in detonation. That's a very bad thing. It will hammer the bearings out of it. A long with breaking the top ring land on the piston.

Losing power like that is not good. Hopefully it's just not enough fuel and not mechanical. Heat robs power big time. Wait till it cools and then see if it runs ok when first started. Are you the one that bought carbs off ebay? Pull all of your plugs and look at them. I'll bet they are real white with possible speckles on the porcelain. If you see speckles that's flaked aluminum from the piston tops. You can also close the choke a little and it should run better or stop surging some what. If that's the case then you know your way to lean.

Get some good photos of the plugs and show them here so we can look at them and we can go from there.

 

I know I know and Im learning that since I just got into bikes. Without you guys I wouldnt have learned crap tho and I'm not gonna invest too much money into these old bikes but its fun tinkering with em and using them as a learning tool. So thanks for helping me fix up my junk Maybe some day I'll start a donation fund here and I can buy me something better but right now I can only dream about iT :wink:

 

Gotcha, im thinking petcocks suck!!! I always have problems with them it seems. Do some newer bikes these days still use gravity fed petcocks? My fuel filter is rarely half full when I really give it gas. Anyway to open mine up and let it flow freely? Or cheapest way to get more fuel from my tank?

 

Last I checked my compression test was still good. How do I locate a mechanical problem like your talking about? Obviously I need to get more fuel to the engine. If i clean my plugs, pop em back in, go down the road, within a couple miles they are chalky white (SEE PICS)!!! Sorry these pics are so blurry and hurt your eyes but best I can do...

 

It does alittle run better without the filter but havent tried driving it like that cause im scared to suck junk up into the carbs and clog em after i just payed money to get em ultrasonic cleaned!!! Maybe Ill try it once just around the block? And if that is the problem how the heck am i supposed to keep junk from getting up into the carbs?

 

Can't tell shit from the photo's. You need a good fuel filter not one of those little plastic pieces of shit. They don't flow the volume you need. You may have to rejet your carbs. Or if done correctly you can hand drill them. But it's not as easy as just running a drill bit thru them. You can use a drill bit to measure them also unless you have conversion charts that show the number of the jet with the hole size in thousands/metric. Then you want to go 0ne thousands (.001) larger and try it. Going one thousand larger is not just a thousands size bigger per sey. You have to look at the circumference area. ex: .001 larger from a .030 hole could be a 20% jump where as going .001 larger on a .035 hole could be a 30% jump. Depends on the total area your starting with. I have the circumference volume charts if needed.

A few guys say you can't drill jets because of bla bla bla. In a hypothetical world there are some things to consider. In the real world though if done right it works.

 

Another thing that might help? When I first put the carb back in after my bench sync and adjusting the pilots to 2 1/2 turns out i got a LOUD BOOM!!!!!! I mean the neigbors came outside. And then shortly after after turning over a couple more times she started up and i was impressed. Ran like a champ! Problem was she was rpming easily 4,000-5,000 Rpms. I tried to ride like that and she had way more power than she has now but of course it was hard to get it it gear with her trying to rpm so high. So i turned the idle down! (Did i mess up my bench sync by doing that?) Alls I know is thats when the fan kicked on and everything started going to crap!!!

So at high rpms before i messed with the idle everything seemed alot better than it does now, it was like a different motorcycle! does that tell you anything new?

I recently tried rejetted 3 sizes up from a 132 to a 135 and it did ABOSOLUTELY NOTHING!!! Now i gotta say everything on my bike is stock. No pods no exhaust mods! so leaving it at stock jet settings should be ok right?

 

I wonder if your carb boots (manifolds) are leaking and sucking in air. Bench sync is only to get the bike running halfway descent. Then you need to do a running sync. I don't think the sync is the problem as far as running unless you really don't have them close enough.

It's hard to tell from way over here. Don't take this wrong, but we don't know what your mechanical level is and carbs are not really for beginners.

The big boom could have been raw fuel in the pipes. The high rpm just masks the problem because of the carb circuits being used.

 

Update - getting closer i think!!! Runs good with choke on

UPDATE:
Removed the inline fuel filter and didnt help!!!

Just did a compression test. all were about the same 125-135.

Checked for vacuum leaks, NONE! I sprayed the crap outta my carbs and everything they connect to. if there are any they are before the carbs meaning around my funky looking airbox cause some angles onn the airbox I cant get into.

Just did a Re-synced on all my carbs didnt help much tho!

Heres MY BREAKTHROUGH THING::: BIKE RUNS LIKE A BAT OUT OF HELL WITH THE CHOKE ON!!!!!! TURNED THE CHOKE ON I WAS LIKE HELL YA!!! QUICK RESPONSE, SOUNDS MEAN, but when i turn the choke off gurgles again, I mean you can REALLY feel her fighting trying to get up to speed as you turn the throttle with the choke off!!! delayed reaction to go up and delyed reaction to come down and power sucks!! CHOKE ON AND SHES BADASS!!!!!

 

If you recommend a Re-jet how mcuh higher should I go? I already went from 132 to 135 and didnt notice much difference. Can you compare choke on to a jet size? How many sizes would it be?