87 VFR 700 California carb trouble on 87 VFR 700 not California Bike

Bought a set Carbs off e bay.Carbs are for a 1987 California VFR 700.I have rebuilt them and now trying to make the work on my 1987 VFR 700 not California bike. Bike runs very rich. Fule milage is 22mpg but runs good on the road. Accelerates good and does not seem to put out any smoke.But,the fumes from the exhaust are very strong. I have the vacume line sealed on the left rear carb.I have put vent line on the other 4 carbs. Have new gaskets and o-rings thru out the carbs.Have the carbs as clean as I can get them and all the jets are clean.Have adjusted the floats. Have tried a couple air mixture setting but still not right.now I have the air screws at 2 1/2 turns out. When I start the bike she revs up to 4000 rpm when cold and drops down to idle when warm. When mixture screws are 2 turns out she revs up high but not as long. at all the different settins fumes at idle are still strong.How far in can I adjust the air mixture screw and be safe ? Can some one let me know the right way to set up the carbs.Or is there a way to use these Californnia carbs with out the fuel recovery system? Thanks for the time, Bubba

 

Assume you are running stock jets,needles,air filter,airbox, and undrilled slides correct?

 

California carbs on a federal bike cam? I have the opposite, i have federal carbs on a california cam bike but I have all the emissions removed. Weird how your milage is so low....

 

Yes stock air box. K N airfilter. Nothing drilled. Do these CARBS need to use the VACUME line I phone caps some letters sorry

 

You can cap off the lines. Do you know what size the jets are and do you have a pic of the needles?

 

Any chance you plugged a float bowl vent line thinking it was somethin else ??

Idle screw settings are not relevant if choke is used during starting, so 4000 rpm at startup would be influence of choke, not screws.

After engine is warmed up and idling you should be able to cause any cylinder to cut power by turning idle screw in beyond one turn. If not, something is wrong.

 

TOE CUTTER I was looking at micro fiche and shop
Book. Bike has 120 mains and adjustable needles clip is one slot from top After some more research i should 118 mains and I think factory needles are different. I think I should take needles out of my old CARBS and try them in these carbs.
It is tuff learning


Squirrelman when I start the bike I'm not using the choke that's the patrs that scares me. Maybe the stuff I'm finding out the other carb parts is affecting everything but I will keep tring to figure this project out.


Only thing I know for sure is never leave your bike behind in a Hurricane. When the whole bike goes under in salt water it is chore to get her right again

 

Yeah I was suspecting that you had been Dynojetted unknowingly. The clipped needles are the dead give away. The main jet sizes are not in line with stock sizes and it is best too back up to stock jets,needles and slides as yours are most likely drilled. Get it back to a known base line and go from there. These kits are junk, that is my polite opinion.

 

Were you able to syncronize them?

 

Let me rephrase . I do not see how you can sync with open vac lines on 3 carbs. On top of that it sounds like you have an open vac line on #2 which is your primary, all others sync to it. And you say you sealed off the vac tube on the left rear which is #1. I agree strongly with toe cutter. cap each tube that sticks out that is for the calif emissions system.

According to my 1986 vfr700f honda serv. manual it calls for pilot settings of 2 1/2 for standard bike & 2 for calif. After plugging them off,( I prefer to say cap off with a rubber tubular cap available from auto parts store) you are essentially a standard bike.

You could then set your pilots at 2 1/2 or even 2 1/4 . My reasoning is you need be synced to start . IF it will not sync then investigate air leaks in the boots. Leaks or no sync are major stumbling blocks.

My manual says sync when at full operating temp. Sometimes thats not possible. Gotta walk before you can fly. Take off the tank. sync it warm or cold as a starting point. I did this on my 86 rwb which is standard carbs and i have substitued a calif carb for #2 with capped vac tube. I set it like the others and synced cold. No problems. It runs so good I can't stay off it long enough to resync. In fact its so much fun to ride even with the cramped leg position and arms going to sleep after a couple hours, that i sold my 650 nighthawk. And I was a big nighthawk fan.

Bear in mind mine is 1986. Maybe someone with an 87 can confirm the pilot settings for that year.

 

been messing with the bike for 2 months now.I bought a Motion pro carb sync tool and it synced good.I did the calibration off the non adjustable carb like the instructions showed.The carbs have 5 lines ( nipples ) tube coming off it.I bought the vacume line rubber line caps from the auto parts and all 5 were on the bike when I synced it. Left rear carb has 2 tubes coming out of it.When running one tubes pulls a strong vacume.Now the line that pulls a stong vacume is plugeg off.I assumed the the other tubes were vents? Going to try to put all the jets off old carbs and put in the California carbs. With all the lines pludeg or open, not the one pulling a vacume pulling line , the bike sucks up the fuel . That is why I think it is rich. If I wanted to use the original carbs that went under Saltwater ,the are some what corroded inside and outside, What does anyone thik about me soaking the whole unit in Rust Rescue solution. It work good on steel and is not suposed to hurt aluminum or rubber. Thank you all for the help.Heading to the Garage now .Wish me luck

 

Put stock pieces from old carbs and put in calli carbs. Took bike for a quick ride. bike was loaded up but after getting on it a couple times it runs good. Getting real close.

Not sure about the fuel mpg yet. Will try to find out soon. Working nights not much time to ride.

Thanks to every one for the help.