How different are VF1000R and VF1000F shocks?

Can they be interchanged with or without modification or swapping of any components? Specifically I'm looking at putting a Works VF1000F shock on a VF1000R.

 

The attachment points are the same so I would say yes.

 

Depending on the year of the bikes, I have found some had a 40mm top bracket and some a 44mm top bracket (84 1000R was 44, 85 1000R was 40mm). Would pay to check first.

 

Did the top brackets of the VF1000F change dimensions similarly over the years?

 

I only have the 1000R's that I can look at here, but I seem to remember that the Wilbur catalogue showed a part number change in the F's as well - bear in mind that the euro/aussie 1000F's included the fully faired Boldor models, so the US 1000F may have been the same. Easiest way to go is to ask seller to measure width of to mount on shock. Also measure width of bracket on bike.

I discovered this because I bought a Hagon rear shock for my 85 model 1000R and discovered it did not fit. Hagon sorted it out and were very helpful. I just had to buy an 84 1000R to match the original shock I bought.

 

Well, the bike is an '86, and the shock is off an '84, BUT the spacers are not integral to the body. If it doesn't want to fit properly I can just throw them on a surface grinder and knock off the required amount.

thx1138: I knew a guy in college who's dad got a good deal on some rims, but they didn't fit any of the cars he had. So he bought a new car to go with the rims. If only we could all be so lucky.

 

The top mounts are the same for 84 F and 85-86 R models. The hose and adjustment cable is different, but that's it.

Something else they have in common is they barely worked when new and by now pretty much all of them have been rendered completely useless!

 

It's not a factory shock, it's a rebuildable Works shock that comes with documentation of a recent factory refurb.

 

Just a word of advice: those Works shocks have some of the worst valving ever. I would suggest either looking for something else or have the entire valving replaced. You'll thank me!

As far as fitment to your R, it will fit just fine.

 

Is it the valve shims or the piston openings that are the problem? Too firm, too stiff?

 

No, it's not just a setup issue. The valving uses shims and springs and check balls.... it's just stupid. You have to trash the whole thing and replace it with something else. Luckily I've got the correct parts for this so it's not a lost cause.

 

Are they simply over complicated, or does this make setup more difficult/more difficult servicing/cause fragility issues? Is the replacement as simple as swapping the valve/shim stacks?

 

Nobody is really sure what Works did, but the net result is a shock that doesn't perform very well. You are correct, it's as simple as replacing the valving with a traditional-type of piston and shim stack arrangement.