Powdercoating Rims/Swingarm?

Are there any options for painting rims other than powdercoating that are effective, or is this the best option?

How much is a reasonable price to pay?

Also, as an alternative to polishing the swingarm and frame, I'm thinking of painting them as well. Any suggestions for this process, as well?

Thanks,

 

powdercoating is the best option,,, TGIC polyester ,,which is what they would use most likely ,,, if you strip the rims,, and pre clean the swing arm spotless ,,,for gloss or flat black 225 dollars for both rims and the swingarm is a fair price ,,,i would do it for 225 ,,, but shipping would kill you, paint is going to chip regardless,,

Regards Rail

P.S. also ,, if they are a mass production powdercoating facility make sure you read the fine print ,,alot of them have a disclaimer about bubbles and defects ,,, cast unfinished aluminum center hubs will outgas crud for hours ,,, so if they are just going too shoot it and bake it you may not be happy ,,, honda rims need to be pre baked a couple cycles after striping and blasting and wiped with a prep chem like easy etch or PRE ,, or even scrubbed with a TSP solution,,,you get what you pay for i guess is the point ,,, your not getting custom paint at earl schiebs,,,

 

I agree that powdercoating is the way to go. I had my 800 rims done white 2 years ago now. The shop that did them looked them over and said that they did not need to be sandblasted because they were the factory black and that the powercoat would stick no problem at all. I ended up paying $100 for 2 rims. They look great and are holding up great as well. Price might range though as I had another set of rims done prior to that and it cost me $225. I think it boils down to how motivated they are to want to do them.

 

Please excuse my ignorance, but I'm guessing I will need to have the tires removed from the rims first, correct? If so, I may just want to get some new rubber while I'm at it...suggestions, as always, welcome in that department as well.

 

remove the tyres yourself if you can
also, you will need remove & then renew the front wheel bearings. Be sure to tape off the area where the bearings reside, you don't want this painted/coated

 

Taking powdercoating to a "small" shop hoping to get a better job is BS. The big shops have far more experience powdercoating all sorts of things than a small shop.

Nothing wrong with small shops but that sort of comparison is BS..

Anybody that implies that powdercoating doesn't or won't chip on wheels is full of shit.

Sounds more to me like a pitch from a guy in a polyester suit on a used car lot than the straight skinny.

 

Like i said read the fine print ,

,oh and ignore billy the cock mouth,,,hes some little cunt that lives in his grandmothers basement, theres about 20 of us that want too break his fingers,,,

to prove my point i will post the standard production facility disclaimer,, this is one of the standard disclaimers,,

"Cast aluminum and magnesium parts may experience an out-gassing and/or bubbling in the finished powder coat. We will take every precaution to avoid out-gassing, however, we can't be held responsible for bubbling caused by porous castings"

you will find smaller custom shops that dont use this disclaimer,

regards rail

 

I agree with billy, some small shops do shitty work. On the other hand, I take my stuff to a one man shop. He does work that is far better and cheaper than the bigger ones here. But it was trial end error until I found him. Check the shops out IN PERSON. Look at their work, contact some previous customers. If the owner is reluctant to give you contacts for his work, move on.

 

We can excuse Railguy for railing. He's a saucehead and does some powdercoating which he rarely fails to mention in "chat". Not a good mix BTW.. Outgassing (see any search engine) can be virtually eliminated if technology is applied. This would include not stripping extant paint from Al/Mag substrates with sodium hydroxide base strippers and trying to save a few bucks at the customers expense by not priming both ferrous and non ferrous metals before the finish is applied.

At least he agrees that chipping can occur on powdercoating or he may have just forgot that part.

Way too much general and specific information on this coating technology out there to take stock in what a pissed off drunk has to say.

 

Question,

What is the difference in powdercoating, and the black/white stock rims I see on various bikes, notably the RWB ones with the white rims? Is this a different process, and can I get it done to my rims?

Are there other generations of VFRs that have whatever coating it is stock that I could put on my bike?

Thanks everyone, I am really entertained by the insights and banter.

 

Best maybe to figure out what it is you want to do and go from there. Or, go to the official VFR World wish list thread. Where ya wish in one hand and.... (being from Nebraska, you know the rest)

What may have been true back in the day may be old hat today. What is powdercoated today could be paint a few years back.

There is a test that can be performed that may or may not be valid to determine in a very general way if a given coating is paint or powdercoat but in no way addresses the many types of paint and the ever growing types of powdercoting materials.

Acetone will degrade paint film and generally will not degrade properly applied and prepped and fused powdercoats.

Methylene Chloride will degrade most but certainly not all powdercoat films.

Don't be huffin either one..or you won't have to worry about much of anything including hair or shit on your palm.

 

Sounds like a script for a Roy Rodgers movie..

 

Or MD2020 and howazbout them Kardashians?

 

LA having more Mexican joints/sq mi than even TJ, you may be right, or she expected the dude to take care of her sisters and her brother too.