Boaz's Photo guide to tearing down or disassembling a 85 vf750f w/ tons of pics

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Boazisi, Jul 27, 2011.

  1. Boazisi

    Boazisi New Member

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    This is my active guide to what I call "Lego Style" Motorcycle tear down. Note that this is my first ever tear down and that a lot of parts can be removed at different times than when I did it.

    Some things to note​
    Click on pictures for Large size! If you need larger than 1024x628 let me know I can go up to 5100x3200ish

    - After you take something apart - put the bolts/screws/clamps in a ziploc bag and use a permanent marker to say what they are for, what mm size they are and how many should be in the bag.

    - ALWAYS BE CAREFUL - Don't smoke while you take apart the gas tank dummy, Don't breathe in the fumes, Don't touch the wires when the battery is still connected, and don't pour your coolants and oils down drains or sewers! There's probably more so always be careful!

    - Don't get ahead of yourself; if you don't have the right tool go and clean some parts you've taken off till they're shiny and brand new. Wrap em up and put them away for later.

    - Don't get frustrated. If it's not working, move onto another part of the bike for now. If you can't move onto another part, go clean up some parts you've taken off till they're shiny and brand new.


    The Beginning


    So you've got to take your bike apart, where to start?

    1. Fairings! take off the front and side pieces - Some are just held in place others are bolted in

    2. Seat! Get er' out of the way

    3. Tail Fairing

    Begin Tail Fairing Guide
    Removing the Tail fairing requires some work but it's easy as getting a beer from the fridge. First, take a birds eye view of where the seat sat.

    15. Under The Seat - Close up - Tail Section Screws Before Removal.jpg

    See near the handlebars there are 2 bolts? Take those bad boys out asap.

    Here's a pic with the bolts removed:
    16. Under The Seat - Close up - Tail Section Screws After Removal.jpg

    Now you've just got to deal with the side bolts

    Here's the left side of your bike
    17. Left Side - Exposed Side Fairing - Close up - Tail Fairing Screw Before Removal - Upper Scre.jpg

    Take out the Top bolt holding your tail fairing in

    Here's the left side of your bike no bolt:
    18. Left Side - Exposed Side Fairing - Close up - Tail Fairing Screw After Removal - Upper Screw.jpg

    Now do the same thing on the right side of the bike:
    19. Right Side - Exposed Side Fairing - Close up - Tail Fairing Screw Before Removal - Upper Scr.jpg
    20. Right Side - Exposed Side Fairing - Close up - tail Fairing Screw After Removal - Upper Scre.jpg

    Now take off that tail fairing!

    Bird's eye view:
    21. Birds Eye View - Tail Fairing Succesfully Removed.jpg

    Right side of bike:
    23. Right Side - Tail Fairing Succesfully Removed.jpg

    Left side of bike:
    22. Left Side - Tail Fairing Succesfully Removed.jpg

    End of Tail Fairing Removal Guide

    Now you have access to the taillight as well as signal lights and License plate holder/mud deflector!


    4. Removal of the remaining Taillight

    Begin Guide to Taillight Removal

    Removing the Taillight is a casual experience that won't take long to complete. The hardest thing about it is remembering what wire goes where. But you know what? I did the hard work for you and will show you what to do!

    Go back and take a birds eye view of the seat where the passenger would sit
    24. Tail Light - Plastic Tool Kit Holder - Screws After Removal.jpg

    See how there are 2 bolts missing in the middle of the photo? You should have 2 there right now, holding down the plastic tool kit holder. Make it look as good as mine and take em out of there

    Now it can be moved around. This is a critical part if you aren't great with electrical connections. Note how in this picture of the left side of the bike, the Plastic tool kit holder is moved to the side
    25. Left Side of Bike - Tail Light - Electrical - Moved Plastic Tool Kit Holder.jpg

    Start looking at how the wires connect, get a feel for how they go around each piece, and remember which went where. Or just come back here and take a look at the pic it should be here hah!

    The bundle of mostly yellow wires goes to the right side, mostly blue to the left which is seen in both the picture above and below:
    26. Right Side of Bike - Tail Light - Electrical - Moved Plastic Tool Kit Holder.jpg

    This picture here was to also help get the connections correct. Red Connection on Left side of Bike, Clear/White Connection on Right side of Bike.
    27. Left Side of Bike - Tail light - Close up - Electrical - Facing Forward.jpg

    Here's how the wires are placed when viewed upside down - Note how they turn above the bottom corner
    28. Tail Light - Under Plastic tool Kit Holder Moved - Close up - Electrical - Red Connection on.jpg

    And on the other side:
    29. Tail Light - Under Plastic tool Kit Holder Moved - Close up - Electrical - White Connection .jpg

    4 Last additional pictures of the connections involved with the Plastic tool kit holder:
    30. Left Side of Bike - Tail Light - Close up - Electrical - Side Angle.jpg
    31. Right Side of Bike - Tail Light - Close up - Electrical - Side Angle.jpg
    32. Right Side of Bike - Tail Light - Close up - Electrical - Side Angle Facing Forward.jpg
    33. Tail Light - Left Side of Plastic Tool kit Holder Moved - Close up - Electrical- View of Ele.jpg

    Now that tool kit out of the way.
    Hopefully your passenger seat area should now look like this:
    34. Tail Light - Plastic Tool Kit Holder Removed.jpg

    Here comes the fun stuff folks, electrical! But don't worry, these pictures will show positioning, colours and connections that are required to run your lights properly.

    First off we have a sneaky electrical box under the main bundle of wires for the taillight, signal light and license plate light shown here:
    35. A. Tail Light - Plastic Tool kit Holder Moved - Close up - Electrical.jpg

    Now take a hand and grab that bundle of wires cover back to expose them. Check out the pretty colours, hope you aren't colourblind!
    35. B. Tail Light - Plastic Tool kit Holder Moved - Close up - Electrical - Close up - Bundle of.jpg

    Ignore the complexity, concentrate on 1 thing at a time. For me, it was the left tail light connection:
    36. Tail Light - Electrical - Close up - Left Tail Light Connection.jpg

    Phew, left tail light is orange and green. Since there is only 1 orange, you can disconnect it. It should easily pull apart.


    Warning! Pay attention!
    In this next picture you will see the green wire from the left rear turn signal connect into a 4 way connector (1's the electrical feed, the other 3 are for turn signal and tail light)
    PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO HOW THEY SIT!
    The Green Electrical wire that feeds the lights connects on what I call the "right" since for my bike it connects on the right hand side of the bike when sitting on the seat.

    The "Feed" wire that connects in what I call top right.

    For the left turn signal, the green connection connects to the bottom left
    For the right turn signal, the green connection connects to the bottom right
    For the Taillight, the Solid green connection connects to the top left

    37. Tail Light - Electrical - Close up - Left Tail Light Connection - Close up - Main Green Conn.jpg


    Now About that right hand turn signal, It's baby blue and green, so go ahead and disconnect the blue, and remember, that green wire connects to the bottom right so pull it from there.
    38. Tail Light - Electrical - Close up - Right Tail Light Connection - Close up - Main Green Con.jpg


    And that tail Light? It's 3 wires, Yellow/green, brown, Solid green. The solid green goes into the Top left green 4 way connection.
    39. Tail Light - Electrical - Close up - Tail Light Connection - Close up - Mail Tail Light Conn.jpg


    Note that there are 2 brown wires, but the brown wire for the license plate has a red plastic casing or red plastic ring around it so that way its easy to tell which is which.
    40. Tail Light - Electrical - Close up - Tail Light Connection - Close up - Main Green Bundle of.jpg
    43. Tail Light - Electrical - Close up - Tail Light Connection - Close up - Main Green Bundle of.jpg

    Here's another 2 pictures of the 4 way connector properly held in place to see which direction wires go
    41. Tail Light - Electrical - Close up - Tail Light Connection - Close up - Main Green Connector.jpg

    And finally the license plate connector! Take those wires out!
    44. Tail Light - Electrical - Close up - Tail Light Connection - Close up - Never Forget about B.jpg

    And you should now see this:
    45. Tail Light - Plastic Tool Kit Holder Removed - Main Electrical Cord Moved.jpg


    We're almost ready to take off the plastic mud stopper/License plate holder part but first lets get rid of those turn signals.

    Here's an earlier pic of the Tail Fairing still attached. See where there should be bolts connected to the black bar underneath the tail fairing? Take yours out
    18. Left Side - Exposed Side Fairing - Close up - Tail Fairing Screw After Removal - Upper Screw.jpg

    Here's the left ones upper Alan Key bolt, right beside the actual turn signal itself. Get it out!
    46. Light Side of Bike - Tail Light - Close up - Alan Key for Left Signal Steel Bar Before Remov.jpg

    Now the Turn signal is already or has fallen off on you, take the wires out of the hole gently if you can.
    47. Light Side of Bike - Tail Light - Close up - Alan Key for Left Signal Steel Bar After Remova.jpg

    Here's the same thing on the right side:
    48. Right Side of Bike - Tail Light - Close up - Alan Key for Right Signal Steel Bar Before Remo.jpg
    49. Right Side of Bike - Tail Light - Close up - Alan Key for Right Signal Steel Bar After Remov.jpg

    Now all that's left is 1 damn nut!
    50. Tail Light Detachment - Main Screw Before Removal.jpg

    Take care though or the whole thing will fall to the ground.

    Now your bike should look like this:
    51. Tail Light Detachment - Main Screw After Removal - Removed Remaining Tile Light Section.jpg
    End of Taillight Removal Guide

    End of Post! Till next time!

    Next Post:
    Exhaust ends
    Battery holder

    Soon:
    Gas Tank
    Air Filter box
    Instrument Panel
    Headlight
    Lower and Upper Radiator
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2011


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  2. Boazisi

    Boazisi New Member

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    Battery Holder and Muffler

    5.Battery Holder
    So you've already removed the battery, now it's time to get rid of the holder as well.

    57. Battery Removed. Note Air Vent Tube Left Background.jpg

    At the top of the holder (which can only be seen from a birds eye view looking into the bike near the gas tank) is a bolt that needs to be removed, highlight by this yellow arrow in the picture below:
    58. Battery Holder - Top Bolt - Under Rear of Gas Tank.jpg

    Go ahead and remove that but don't lose the nut in the center of the bike.

    Underneath the Battery holder you'll find a wire and tube, in this picture below the tube is yellow arrows and the wire is orange arrows
    59. Battery Holder - Bottom - Tube Locations- Yellow is Air Tube.jpg

    Carefully pull the wire from out of the plastic holders that are attached to the battery holder.


    Now take a closer look at the left side of the holder, there's a tube running in the background that gets tucked up near the frame that has to be pulled out, but do it carefully.
    60. Battery Holder - Bottom - Air Tube Through Rear Hole on Left.jpg

    Now it's safe to pull the battery holder out. If you did it right your bike should look like this:
    61. Battery Holder Removed.jpg

    6.Muffler

    I might remove exhaust differently from a lot of other people, but I tend to get the big bulk out of the way from the sides and leave the cat on till I really need to remove it since I've found it very hard to remove at this stage in a tear down.

    Near the Cat you should see on each side of the bike a clamp with 2 rusty hate filled bolts that need to be loosened. Have at it, if it was anything like mine, you'll be sweating soon.
    52. Exhaust with Tip Clamp before removal.jpg

    Now you want to get at the nice big bolts near the Passenger foot holds. Remove those from your muffler.
    53. Exhaust Tip Bolt before Removal.jpg

    Now you can finally start shaking it around while you pull trying to dislodge years of rust (if its anything like my bike)

    Once you're done the bike should look like this:
    54. Exhaust After Removal - Right Side of Bike.jpg
    55. Exhaust After Removal - Left side of Bike.jpg

    Now last but not least for me in this area is the gear cover. Grab a wrench and remove the bolt on the guard near the wheel. Once this is off, all you have to do is push the guard towards the front of the bike and then pull it out the side, as there is an inner bolt that acts like a hook for the guard.

    Once that's off your bike should look like this:
    56. Bike Chain Guard Removed.jpg


    7.Gas Tank

    This is definitely a time to be smart. Drain out the gas, run the bike dry.

    Go after that bottom bolt first shown in this picture:
    62. Gas Tank - Bottom Bolt Before Removal.jpg

    Now Tackle the top bolt at an 8mm in size its the smallest i've dealt with so far.
    63. Gas Tank - Top Bolt Before Removal.jpg

    Finally you can get under the tank! which looks like this:
    64. Gas Tank - Bolts Removed and Tank Lifted.jpg

    But before you get rid of anything you gotta get the fuel line to the engine disconnected. So here's a nice detailed diagram of the way it works. Green arrows are direction of fuel. Orange are the clamps, red for the red wire clamp.

    Remove the Orange clamps, any excess fuel that could leak out should be moved to a jerry can.
    65. Gas Tank - Fuel Line.jpg

    here's another shot before the clamps and tube is removed to show how it connects underneath
    66. Gas Tank - Underneath - Close up - Fuel Line.jpg

    Now we're onto the Fuel Gauge/floater which is the bolted down metal underneath the gas tank in this picture:
    67. Gas Tank - Fuel Gauge Placement Before Removal.jpg

    Take those nuts off and slowly pull it out. Notice the curvature and bend of the floater, without laughing, pull it out and put it back in multiple times till it becomes easily remembered.
    Now pull it out for good, heh.
    68. Gas Tank - Fuel Gauge After Removal.jpg

    Now your gas tank is off! Air it out for awhile.
    69. Gas Tank Removed.jpg

    Now your bike should start to look haggard, like this:
    70. Gas Tank Removed - Side Angle.jpg

    And you're done for now!

    Next time
    Air Filter box
    Instrument Panel

    Soon
    Headlight
    Lower and Upper Radiator
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2011


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  3. Boazisi

    Boazisi New Member

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    Air Filter box, headlight and instrument panel

    8. Air Filter Box

    Now that you've got the gas tank off and can see the air filter box, it's time to take out the air filter and then the box itself.
    Since my air filter top was broken I didn't remove it, as it fell off, but remove the 4 bolts to get inside.
    In this next picture, you'll see the air filter itself and the metallic holder that you squeeze in on both size as shown by the arrows:
    87. Air Cleaner Case Box - Arrows Point to Metal - Push Towards Each Other - Pull Up.jpg

    As you pull it out, it should slide back easily:
    88. Air Cleaner Case Box - Metal Tab Half Way Out.jpg

    After being removed, it's now time to get at the air filter, pop it out but remember how it goes back in:
    89. Air Cleaner Case Box - Air Filter Positioning.jpg

    And you're now ready for the box itself. The red arrow in this picture is the tube you need to remove (but don't have to disconnect at the other end yet) and the orange arrows are the screws you need to remove to take out the box.
    90. Air Cleaner Case Box - Positioning of Air Intake Clamp and Screws for Removal.jpg

    Right Side:
    91. Air Cleaner Case box - Positioning of Right Side Air Intake Screws for Removal.jpg

    Left Side:
    92. Air Cleaner Case Box - Positioning of Left Side Air Intake Screws for Removal.jpg

    Remove the Air-filter box and immediately cover the 4 holes with plastic wrap or something to prevent anything from falling in.
    93. Air Cleaner Case Box - Removed - Plastic Prevents Parts Falling in Motor.jpg

    With that complete, your Air-filter is now off and you can move on to more complicated things, like the instrument panel and headlight!

    9. Headlight

    Removing the Headlight is easy

    Find the top bolts:
    71. Headlamp - Top Placement of Nuts.jpg
    72. Headlamp - Top Right Nut - Close up.jpg

    And the bottom bolt:
    73. Headlamp - Bottom Nut Placement.jpg

    And get them off, because you'll need to get behind it to find the electrical chord that connects to the bulb:
    74. Headlamp - Electrical Attachment - Close up.jpg

    Now take off the headlight:
    75. Headlamp - Removed.jpg

    10.Instrument Panel
    This part to me at first seemed a little complicated, but the more that I worked on one wire or connection it became easier to do the next, so just remember how they sit and go from there.

    Now the next pictures are in series for the guide, but some pictures later on will have parts on them as I use older photos.

    So the first thing we want to do is remove the main connector to the front wheel which is shown with the red arrow:
    76. Instrument Panel - Front Tire Connecting Wire Placement.jpg

    Notice how it sits between the electrical cord and the headlight/instrument panel frame:
    77. Instrument Panel - Front Tire Connecting Wire Placement Between Instrument Panel Frame and W.jpg

    Now you need to get the white connectors removed from the right side as they are for the instrument panels electricity:
    80. Instrument Panel - Wire Connection.jpg

    Get out your wrench, because you'll need to remove some bolts. Lets start with the 2 on the right side of the bike shown with the red arrow in the fuzzy pictures below.. couldn't get any better shots at the time.
    81. Instrument Panel - Right Side of Bike - Bolt Placement at Arrows to be Removed.jpg

    And here's an easier to see left side of the bike with 2 bolts in need of removal:
    82. Instrument Panel - Left Side of Bike - Bolt Placement at Arrows to be Removed.jpg

    With that, you're now done, and can take off the instrument panel without any issues:
    83. Instrument Panel - Removed Top View.jpg

    84. Instrument Panel - Removed Front View.jpg

    Next time:
    Upper and lower rad

    And more
     


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  4. Boazisi

    Boazisi New Member

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    Lower and Upper Rad removal

    11.Lower and Upper Radiator

    Before you begin, on the lower rad you'll see a plastic bolt holding in your rad fluid. put a bucket underneath that and drain it out. Dispose of it properly!!

    Now that you're ready to take off the rad, the first thing you want to do is take a look at this picture, since it'll show you the hoses (red arrows) and bolts(orange arrows) to remove as well as the direction of which you pull out the rad (shown in yellow arrows).
    Careful when you do this, there are still electronic connections!!!
    94. Lower Rad - Positioning of Screws and Clamps - Movement of Radiator to Remove from Housing.jpg

    Here's a picture of the electronics which are visible from the right side of the bike. Follow the instructions in mspaint as they tell no lies. Pull back!
    95. Lower Rad - Behind Radiator - Diagram Explaining Removal of Electrical Wiring.jpg

    Now here's a quick shot of how the connectors sit from the other side. Notice how the one closest to the center of the bike is connected to other wires while the thicker outside cable loops up.
    96. Lower Rad - Back of Radiator Hose and Cable Placement.jpg

    Now the lower rad is easily removed and the bike looks like:
    97. Lower Rad - Removed.jpg

    Here's a shot of the bottom attachments when not connected to lower radiator:
    98. Lower Rad - Removed - Bottom Wiring Connections and Hose.jpg

    Now it's time for the upper radiator... On the left side of the bike (sitting on it as always) you'll find this bolt, go ahead and remove it:
    99. Upper Radiator - Top Left Side of Frame Bolt Connection.jpg

    Normally you'd expect a secondary bolt underneath the first but nope, it's just a plastic nub holder of some sorts...
    100. Upper Radiator - Bottom Left Side of Frame Plastic Connector Piece - Does Not Require Anyth.jpg

    now do this on both sides please, as I forgot to take pictures of the other side again. Oh well, it's mirrored.

    Now it's time for the upper rad hoses. Let's get rid of the small hose on the top left of the bike area of the rad:
    101. Upper Radiator - Left Side of Bike - Small Upper Hose Clamp Position.jpg

    And as well loosen and remove the other sides top tube which is quite large in comparison to the left's:
    102. Upper Radiator - Right Side of Bike - Top Hose - Closest Clamp to Rad.jpg

    if you feel like it, at the same time take out the other side to remove the hose totally:
    103. Upper Radiator - Right Side of Bike - Top Hose - Furthest Clamp Away fom Radiator.jpg

    Oh oh! it's still attached? hah it's all good. it's just electrical. From a top view of the bike look down at the fans behind the rad. Notice the yellow on the left, black on the right, that's most likely how it goes. Jk memorize that:
    104. Upper Radiator - Top View - Diagram of Fan Wiring Placement.jpg

    Now the upper rad is gone!
    105. End of Day - Top View - Air Filter Box and Radiators Gone.jpg

    106. End of Day - Right Side of Bike - Air Filter Box and Radiators Gone.jpg

    108. End of Day - Front Left Side of Bike - Air Filter Box and Radiators Gone.jpg

    107. End of Day - Front Right Side of Bike - Air Filter Box and Radiators Gone.jpg

    Next Time:

    What I think is the fuel pump
    Some sort of reserve tank
    and more stuff I dunno the names too
     


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  5. hoganth

    hoganth New Member

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    Great Pictures and commentary. This helps me alot with my 83 project.
     


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  6. Boazisi

    Boazisi New Member

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    I've been extremely busy getting school set up and other items. I will continue this thread soon. Sorry for the delay!
     


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  7. hoganth

    hoganth New Member

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    Looking forward to seeing more tear down pics. Great Job!!! could you possibly include some photos on the next shots of the front cylinders spark plug wire routing.
    I don't think mine are routed correctly, but I don't have anything to compare to.
     


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  8. Boazisi

    Boazisi New Member

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    I unfortunately don't have perfect shots. I've used 2 to show the general area it travels. It's very very basic though, not routed through anything weird just right along the edge in green.
    Spark plug wires.jpg

    Ignore the arrows as this is a previous image, the green lines are where the front left and right plugs sit.

    Here's another pic showing them from the right side, again not a good pic but it's basic enough that you can put them into proper place without issues.
    For front cylinder spark plug.jpg

    I'll hopefully have the next stages of the tear down up by saturday. I'm a lot farther than the posts so far so it'll be a hell of a lot of stuff.
     


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  9. hoganth

    hoganth New Member

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    Great, thanks for the pics locating the plug wires. mine were pretty off from what I see. Probably to be expected on a 30 year old bike.
    Thanks again!
     


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