Brake line replacement tips (1988 FJ/FK)

Hi all,
I'm about to replace the front brake lines on my 88 FK model. HEL seem to be able to supply 3 hoses for a standard fitment which I'll probably buy. On my bike there is a solid brake pipe above the front mudguard with a three way connection.
Does anyone know if this link pipe should be supplied with the new brake lines or is this existing link re-usable with the new brake lines?

Thanks...

 

You should get a longer banjo bolt that goes to the brake master. Between this bolt you will use TWO braided lines that will go directly to each front caliper. You will use three new crush washers for the master and use two new ones per side on each of you calipers. Bleed carefully and have a water spray bottle near by so if you screw up and get DOT 4 on you paint it wont screw up you paint job. Other than that its pretty easy, enjoy the new found feel! I always up-grade to steel lines on everything I have owned. Cheers :smile:

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I've placed the order for the brake lines and will have a go fitting them on the weekend. Is DOT4 ok to use on the bike as it says to use DOT3 on the reservoir?

 

DOT 3 and 4 are compatible, just don't use DOT 5. There is a DOT 5.1 which is safe - I plan to use that when I flush my lines this winter. Yes, the brake fluid gods make strange, confusing choices in their nomenclature! :crazy:

-VFRGeek

 

Motul RBF 600 - RacingBrake.com



....

 

Just a quick update.

Brakelines are all fitted. Bleeding took a while but patience helped. Just incase anyone else is looking at this thread for a similar:
- One line from the master cylinder to the right hand caliper. Left hand caliper had junction in the line from the main line which HEL had already made up.

- removed the old lines and fitted the new lines. Took about 30 minutes and was straight forward. Torqued them up using a torque wrench.

- Added fluid and bled the caliper furthest from the M/C, then the nearest caliper. The trick is "Take it SLOW". pump the lever slowly and keep a close eye on the fluid level.
- put the bike on the side stand and turn the bars fully left, so that the master cylinder is higher than the banjo bolt, to allow air to move up and out thru the MC.
- Use a clear rubber tube from the caliper into a glass jar, open the bleed nipple, pump the lever slowly, close the bleed nipple, release the lever (pump, crack, bleed, close, release).
- Once you have some feeling in the lever again, it will still be a bit spongy. There is a small hole in the master cylinder. if you pull the lever very slightly, only until you hear the brake switch click on, you will see a small number of bubbles come up. Keep doing this for a while, tap the brake lines gently to agitate any remaining air, and keep doing this - it took me a day to be fully happy with the pressure.


All done!!!

 

Congrats ES PEE EM ; )

Sometimes it takes a while to get a good lever or pedal (what eva your working on). Wait till you re-build a master cylinder! It will make you wonder what you did wrong as your gona be doing the bleeding process for a long time. It helps to have a air sucker bleeder thing that you hook up to your air compressor. (have one, didnt use it lately) hence the long time for bleeding. oh yeh, breaking out the torque wrench is a good idea to crush them new washers to factory specs.

Enjoy your new found lever action, braided lines are great and I put em on every street bike I ever owned. Cheers.