Starting Honda cafe bike build today

When I re-built my '82 Yamaha, I replaced the fuse block with blade fuses as well. The old fuses were not even available in the size/amp ratings called out on the old cover!

Anyways, Don - you're off to a stellar start on this old girl - looking forward to more updates!

 

Thanks VT Viffer.
I will keep updating this thread.

 

Very nice fuse block!
Thanks for the tip.

 

I was doing searches for #520 sprockets for the CB750. Thats all.
BTW.... Thomas from Yamatoya Motorsports called me back again and said
that he can get 43 T and 45T rear alloy sprockets for the CB750.
He said he is going to put together a sprocket kit (F/R ) for the CB750 folks.

 

Thanks.

I wrote to them as well regarding a 520 conversion kit for the VF500F.

So far I haven't been able to source a 520 drive sprocket. 520 driven sprockets are available (same as the CBR600F).

 

Today's work for the CB750 Cafe project was cleaning the paint off of the top triple clamp.

Also doing a lot of research on the wheels.

 

Today's work for the CB750 Cafe project was cleaning the paint off of the top triple clamp.

I used a wire brush on a hand held electric drill.
I also cut off some unwanted tabs.

Doing a lot of research on the wheels.
I sure am getting tired of cleaning black spray paint off of everything.

 

Looking great Don, motor looks incredible.

If you haven't already, check out Single Over-Head Cam 4 Forums - Index Best gathering of sohc gearheads on the net.

 

Thanks for the link VFRCAPN.

 

Above post shortened to save space.
Looks almost like what I started with.
It is strange to me all the CB750's I see that were abandoned
With low mileage sitting around rusting.
I would forget about the single shock modification because the frame was not strong enough to start with. The two shock system works well is balanced as far as supporting the swing arm and was easy to work on and adjust. You can also take one shock off at a time without jacking up the bike on the two shock system.

 

I don't think so, my '78 is silver......maybe when they went to dual cams in '79???? It seems most if not all of the DOHC motors i see are black.

 

Here's the stock 1977 CB750F so it could be just the "F" model and not the "K". It's been a while so I don't remember. Good looking out...

This is also the wheels you were looking for earlier Donald. Disc front and back on the old Comstar wheels.

 

You are right...the super sport did have black engines (almost everything else to for that matter, fork legs, springs, etc...). When i was looking for a cafe project I actually wanted an F model, one of the reasons being the black motor. One of the other main reasons......you called it.....the brakes. But, none were to be found close by within the money i wanted to spend. There were some very nice ones for sale but I didn't want a very nice one to cut up.

 

DISCLAIMER: I may capitalize some word to show importance of a point I am making. I am not yelling and I am not angry. Read at your own risk.

Thanks who- is- phil for the photo.
I just got a set of alloy rims (complete wheels) for a 1978 CB750A (automatic) Ebay.
They should be a straight swap. Lots of cleaning and polishing of course.
My 1978K CB750 donor bike had a silver engine too.

I could not afford to buy NEW alloy rims and spokes even if I laced and trues them myself. It would have cost $600. dollars just for the rims and spoke kits. Oh yes and then there is TIRES and we know you cannot skimp on tires. Another $200 at least.

 

The last couple of days I have been working on the triple clamps because the new tapered bearing and triple clamps will be one of the first thing to go onto the frame.

I power wire brushed the top aluminum triple clamp and the bottom steel triple clamp and cleaned up two engine mount bolts. It was 33 years of corrosion, spray paint, and grease. Then I sprayed the triple clamps with carb paint because that paint has the look I want.
I also removed the lower bearing race from the bottom triple clamp.
The triple clamp stem had been welded for some reason. I looked like a good job and it had a solid plug inside the tube also. It took me a while to figure out WHY anybody would need to do that and later that day I realized it was probably that someone had stripped the threads on the stem and so they just got another stem and welded it on. Weird eh? 33 years history-bound to have some soul.

Another item that need to get done was the kickstand because it will get powder coated along with the frame. There was a little sheet metal box thing with a chunk of rubber inside the little box to protect the frame when the kickstand goes up and it had been welded on. There was a bolt to hold it on but I guess it had all rusted out.
I cut the entire mess off. The foot catch was bent and severely corroded and when
I tried bending it back it just snapped off.

Foot catch severely corroded. Ditched that - and will make a new one.

Cleaning up of the exteraneous stuff on the frame continues.
I do not know id I will keep the seat latch and hinges yet.
Waiting for the seat to arrive.
I had planned on putting the oil tank under the seat along with the battery and electrics. I will post a photo. The oil tank is from a Harley Davidson FXR. 3 quarts. Just right.


This is the photo of a CB750 with oil tank,battery and electrics under the cafe seat.
But I do not know if this oil tank was really installed or not.
Anyway I may try to do it.

Later.

 

Another great project. Thanks for sharing.

 

Yes it looks so much better than black spray paint.
Also by cleaning it all you can inspect the bolts, clean them, and oil them.
on older motorcycles many times the washers are missing.
Got to have the washers. Washers have 4 purposes and one of them is to act as a bearing surface for the head of the bolt.

Other 3 reasons:
Act to prevent corrosion between dissimilar metals,
Act as a spacer.
Act as a locking device.

 

Today the mission was to take apart the front caliper Honda CB750K and find out all about it.
BTW I got the wheels I bought on ebay and they were in good shape.
Got the old tires off too.

The front brake caliper was a pain from the very start. The bleed screw was rusted
solid. I tried lubricant, a hand held propane torch ,vice grips etc.,. No dice.
So I had only two options left, Weld a bar onto it and remove it while hot and if that did not work then it wold be grinder and bolt extractor then rethread if possible.
The welding worked. I used a 110V wire feed and welded a bar onto it to turn it.
IT was still hard to turn but eventually came out.


Ugly isn't it.

This is the standing side brake pad attached to a steel backing.
It had a pin sticking through the back side so all I had to do was tap it out.
Lots of corrosion that had to be cleaned.
You can see how rusty the steel part was.

This is the other side of the caliper the movable piston and pad.
Of course it was stuck and rusted.
I tried prying and tapping and lubricants,no luck. No access
from the other side.
Finally I resorted to.....welding.

You can see I chiseled the brake pad off down to the steel backing.
Three tack weld around the tube. Then tapping, lube talking to it and it finally popped out. You are looking at the steel backing plate to the brake pad.


Then came the last part. The brake piston.
If I could not fix this then I would be looking for a new brake caliper and I do not think there are any oem brake calipers.


I tapped on the piston and it went in further. Good. Then I used some compressed air and it blew the piston out with a loud pop and I caught it in my hand.

I felt good because for about 4 hours work I saved my caliper from going to the scrap yard. A complete rebuild on a 33 year old caliper.
Photos coming of finished unit.

 

I went through all that with an old Yammi I had for a bit. I got all the way to the piston part and gave up. I was able to find a used set that was in much better shape than mine, luckily.